La Douleur Exquise

1 reseña

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• kjarr

  February 2, 2023

  

  A bespoke perfume crafted for every nose. Endorsed by Eugen, an American with exquisite and demanding taste regarding material quality and blends, so I trusted him blindly. Moreover, the perfumer is Antoine Lie, renowned for his work at Les Indemodables, where he created Ambré supreme, the finest scent I have tried in years. Upon application, the opening features a prominent rose, neither fleshy nor fresh, but a very similar intermediate point to Portrait of a Lady, accompanied by a very subtle touch of castoreum. It is a rose-castoreum combo where the queen always reigns supreme. Although there are more notes, these are the protagonists. The intense floral aroma eclipses everything at first, but as it fades, the castoreum emerges with greater strength, though without being the boss, merely a good secondary note in the dry down. In short, it is a fragrance centred on rose with very faint animalic tints of castoreum. It is very well made and blended; the development is gradual, with one note dropping while another rises, all highly modulated. I consider it an excellent work with first-class materials, although it does not break the mould nor is it my favourite rose in the collection. Longevity on skin is long, around 10 hours or more, and projection is above average for the first four hours before it begins to fade. I see it as unisex and have worn it only in autumn and winter, where it works brilliantly; perhaps in spring, but I do not see it for summer. A dissonant note: the spray cap is poor; it moves and does not atomise the perfume well, requiring frequent adjustment, which seems to be a common issue. What struck me was a colleague mentioning it smelled of woods, but it has never given me a woody sensation. Who said everyone smells perfumes the same?