Men
Francesco Smalto pour Homme
Acordes principales
Descripción
Francesco Smalto pour Homme by Francesco Smalto is an aromatic fougère fragrance for men. Launched in 1987, this composition features lavender, rosemary, tarragon, bergamot, anise, neroli, and thyme in its top notes. The heart reveals fern, Virginia cedar, patchouli, carnation, cyclamen, geranium, and pine needles, while the base notes settle on leather, oakmoss, musk, and tonka bean.
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Comunidad
243 votos
- Positivo 93%
- Negativo 4.1%
- Neutral 2.9%
Pirámide olfativa
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Femenino
Unisex femenino
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Masculino
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SMALTO Song: any by the band JOURNEY. Like the band I mentioned, Smalto suffers from the same ailment: they are two very cool concepts, popular but that will never pass beyond the decade they were produced. Journey never recovered from their split in the mid-to-late 80s, and Smalto can never overcome the fact that it is very similar to Drakkar Noir, making it a copy among thousands of this popular fragrance. It’s a pity because it’s a good fragrance, only that if it’s completely encapsulated in the 80s… let’s sing: doooon’t stop believing… hold on to that feeling…
Strong opening loaded with bergamot, lavender, and tarragon. It doesn’t have citrus notes as intense as in Drakkar Noir (of which, as PablOSO says, Smalto is too similar in style). From the heart notes, I perceived a bit of carnation, patchouli, and soft cedar, perhaps a little fern (or was it another green note I can’t distinguish well; most likely). The musky-mossy dry-down is not sweet, with some leather. It is truly a fragrance “too” inspired by Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche. Both are listed as aromatic fougères on Fragrantica. In the Haarmann Reimer classification table, both are also in the Fougere Fresh category, but Francesco Smalto Pour Homme is also closer to Jazz by YSL and Tsar by V&A. It is a fragrance without the citrus, pine, and more bitter green notes of Drakkar Noir (the savoury herb and wormwood). It doesn’t feel simpler than Drakkar in any case, but it shares that same 80s spirit. The trail is moderate (can be a bit heavy for one or two hours with overapplication) and longevity in my case is over 12 hours. Given its note characteristics, I see it for intermediate seasons and more for daytime use. If you want a Drakkar Noir variation and see it there, you can try this “fougere fresh” with little wood.
Today I was able to try this fragrance because where I buy some scents, they had it in tester format. The truth is, I’ve liked it; as mentioned in the two previous reviews, it has the total style of 80s fragrances. It’s a fragrance of herbal, green, aromatic, leathery, and very smoky style. To me, it reminds me, besides Drakkar Noir, of Tsar by Van Cleef in part of its dry-down, and of one not listed on Fragrantica called Nobile Royalty by Alexander da Costa; the latter really seems very similar to it. The opening is strong; notes of bergamot, anise, and lavender are noticeable and remain for most of its development, while in the background, moss, patchouli, and leather complement the touch of classic fragrances from that era. I recommend it for those who like the aforementioned fragrances. Its trail is at least average, and longevity on the skin is over 8 hours without issue. UPDATE: Although it resembles Drakkar Noir especially in the dry-down, the current version of Francesco Smalto is much better in longevity and scent, as the current Drakkar Noir is a shame.
The day I bought this rich fragrance was probably between 1987 and 1990; back then, I was single. I remember its scent, which I loved: it opened with a strong citrus smell if you overapplied, and, as Priethcallas, Pabloso, and Beto Ruiz say, it had a musky-ambery scent with something of skin or suede. It wasn’t sweet, but it was a very attractive perfume, very similar to Drakkar Noir. I preferred Smalto because when I went looking for Drakkar, I also smelled Smalto and bought this. Months after finishing it, I went to look for it again but couldn’t find it, so I bought another from the same brand, Molto Smalto, which I also liked, but I prefer Francesco Smalto, and its memory will stay with me.
Ladies and gentlemen, I’ve found love, at least in perfumes xD. Obviously, I’d need millions to try more, but of what I know so far, Francesco Smalto has stolen my heart. It has everything to conquer me: a spectacular, spicy, and potent opening, like a seal of authenticity; you’ll never be fooled by a pirate copy if it doesn’t have that opening. I love that an opening note, which seems like tarragon, is so peppery yet softly sweet, but at the same time smells like a kitchen spice aisle, like the scent of dried chiles and spices in a great Mexican market. Some might wrinkle their nose and leave the bottle there. Bravo! I love perfumes that hide treasures for the perseverant, those who don’t wear a mask to hook you. I love those with personality and honesty. Francesco Smalto gradually turns into a herbal, soft woody, green phase, ‘green that I want to be green’. Yes, it reminds me of Drakkar Noir, but the first formula that caused a frenzy, and yet I like it more because while the first turns dry and woody, the second stays juicy green, sparkling with fresh spices. I can perceive in the mentholated flower blend the sweetness of anise, so soft and delicate that unless you look for it with dedication, you’d never notice. That little sweetness keeps it beautiful for hours, balancing the mossy leather so it doesn’t go dry and raspy, but holds in a unique, inspiring equilibrium. I did a strange experiment: I wanted to play the alchemist. I put a mix of Drakkar Noir, Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels on one arm, and to give it that anise kick, a shot of Azzaro Pour Homme; a few minutes later, that mix resembled the dry-down of Francesco Smalto quite a bit, but I couldn’t match its beauty. I found a bottle just a month ago at the fantastic San Juan de Dios market in Guadalajara, Mexico. At a price of a third of what they ask online or on forums. I’ve used it to go out for drinks and for work, and in both situations, I’ve won many compliments, especially from friends who, trusting me, feel encouraged to say the scent suits my personality sensationaly. And they keep smelling me again and again. Applying generously yields a tremendous trail for over 4 hours, or if you want something soft, two or three sprays suffice. Longevity is 8 to 10 hours. And it doesn’t give me a headache even if I overapply, which is why I’m in love! Definitely, perfumes of yesterday are unmatched; the reason I like this French perfume with an Italian name so much is that its scent feels so natural, as if you rubbed on essential oils of moss, lavender, and other notes. All the time, until its soft skin-level dry-down, the quality of the notes reminds you of nature: garden herbs, leather from a garment, moss from a temperate forest, lavender from a blooming field. That’s it, the notes are exquisitely natural, and when that’s perceived in a fragrance, it pleases, attracts, and enchants.
Just arrived! This has old-time density; it reminds me a bit of Montana Parfum d’Homme (last formula). You could say it’s the rough version of Drakkar Noir but with more testosterone. Oakmoss isn’t the star here; it’s a supporting player adding depth to floral chords fused with a slight greasy leather touch. I haven’t judged its full performance yet, but it feels robust. An 80s icon that, with all its demonic aura, could carve a path by breaking away from current trends and perhaps hit hard in today’s perfumery. Another gem by Pierre Bourdon. Four seasons: apply gently in spring and summer.
But what a bloody marvel. It’s like blending Barbershop with Xeryus but darker. A MASTERPIECE that every connoisseur and lover of powerhouses must own.
What a bloody masterpiece! It’s like mixing barbershop vibes with Xeryus but darker. A true classic that every powerhouse connoisseur must have in their collection.