Xeryus by Givenchy

Just like the 1995 flanker, I already owned the original back in the mid-90s. The bottle was different—rectangular, entirely black with very sharp angles, yet it let the liquid show through against the light. At 13, I preferred this over the flanker. It was fabulous.

A rare fragrance and one of the best I tried in the 90s, with its artistic bevelled bottle in a metallic black tone. It’s hard to forget this prestigious masculine scent. I don’t know if it has been reformulated in this new presentation, but the previous version was the best. This jewel is missed.

I’ve been on Fragrantica for over 10 years and I can’t believe I went so long without reviewing this superb fragrance, about which I recently learned it was created by Alberto Morillas. Since there’s no deadline that cannot be met, I’m coming up to date with this pending task. My description is of a 25 ml bottle of the early formulas. Xeryus is one of the wonders of the men’s fougère genre, making use of the plant’s fertility, using components cited on the portal, with animal leather and musk to give body to a masculine and tempered composition, where chlorophyllic and citrus freshness balances a varied and discerning alloy, almost like a bottled ecosystem. The opening bursts forth like a forest monolith with balsamic, amber and boreal nuances, impressions of moss and wet earth, reinforced by green and floral tones, which oxygenate and calm down in 10 minutes. After two hours, the composition emulsifies into a fascinating smoky forest bed, mutating towards a dry, crunchy and warm freshness, as if the ingredients were put on fire to spread and fade without haste. It’s as if the skin were a stage set where water, fire, earth, air and aether enter into synergy. The Xeryus man smells temperamental, open, assertive and frank, at the same time as gallant, reflective and empathetic. If Italian perfumery allowed our scents with Gucci Nobile, the French did the same two years earlier with this piece. I can’t help comparing them, because both embody the beauty of the 80s and sit in a similar style, materialising with mastery the vision of that time on olfactory dressing. It’s a perfume with so much vitality that it seems to be speaking to me. Perhaps that’s what many of us do: translate into verbal language details that a scent describes to us, like when we attribute a colour to a musical note. I conclude my review, without first expressing what amazes me about the magic that great perfumes hold; they are evidence of human genius and how a perfumer can turn an abstract idea inspired by a landscape or a feeling into art for the olfactory sense. Xeryus is, consequently, a work of topical art; it is everything. Rating: 10/10.

It’s impossible to forget that black Art Deco flask, from which emanated shades of metallic grey like a bewitched stone. Originally it was called Keryus, but two months after its launch they had to change the name. Charles of the Ritz, which produced the fragrances for Yves Saint Laurent, were annoyed by the resemblance to their darling Kouros, and without mediation they launched a legal warning to Givenchy. To avoid unnecessary headaches, they decided to change it to what we know today. The lawsuits of the 80s and 90s were all the order; most designer fragrances were already bought up by large groups, largely unrelated to the fashion environment. It was all business, as it remains today. Xeryus would be the male counterpart to Ysatis; in fact, both flasks have the same concept. At an aromatic level there is similarity with the fashionable fougères of that time: lavender, pine, leather, moss, herbs, citrus. Drakkar or Gucci Nobile come to mind. But to personal taste, Xeryus emanated a unique sophistication. The other fragrances imposed character with notes saturated of lavender, pine or spices. In contrast, Givenchy’s proposal revolved around the refined, emphasising balance to give us an aromatic but elegant fragrance. Alberto Morillas manages to establish a copious floral bouquet in the middle, where herbal notes, conifers and moss dance around, offering a little of each. He thus achieves a harmony that gives it character, where the creamy floral never saturates the olfactory sense, buffering the rebellious notes like herbs, spices or leather. The dry down moves between citrus/herbal, with a great contribution of white flowers, then flashes of moss, coniferous and herbal touches. As it progresses, I feel the cinnamon and red flowers giving way to a slightly smoky base; only in its dry down is the leathery musk with labdanum and tonka bean appreciated. It’s a masterpiece, a flash of the Gods, using notes of an 80s fougère but giving it a unique touch. A chameleon fragrance with exorbitant quality. They put the meat on the spit, Givenchy spared no expense. Xeryus handles more than 40 notes in its first formula. Moderate/high projection and impeccable longevity can be expected. But what made it a God also condemned it: that luxury of quality could not be maintained for long. And the fact of having notes that already appeared in previous fragrances didn’t make it completely original. For example, Xeryus Rouge offered something different, more played for the time. I’m not saying the Rouge is better or worse, simply that by betting on unusual notes and launching just into the market it capitalised on popularity until today. Xeryus is a dreamed-of Fougère, which remains beautiful despite the reformulations, but it is only the shadow of what it was if compared with the first generation. Nevertheless, despite the ups and downs, Givenchy and its public continue to bet on it.

Regarding the presentation: not counting the box, the bottle is pleasant, good atomiser, but the name label leaves much to be desired (it’s the worst I’ve seen). The scent is a very pleasant surprise, from its opening to its dry down. Moderate trail for a couple of hours and then a bubble for about 7 or 8 hours on my skin (which is very dry). Enjoying it. Very versatile, within the good dressing range, from casual to formal. Blind buy? Yes, I recommend it.

Xeryus (1986): Smells very sober, yet it carries that Drakkar Noir DNA without the anise note, resulting in an authentic scent. It smells different on the strip, but on the skin, it’s a different story entirely.

I bought this out of boredom with warm notes and excessive bergamot in other perfumes. I was looking for lavender and violets in a men’s fragrance, and thanks to the note finder, I found this gem at a good price. Thanks to the site for helping me find what I didn’t even know existed. A lime and lavender opening that combines perfectly and refreshes. Heart of tarragon and sandalwood. Base of amber, cedar, and vetiver. Surprisingly long-lasting for an EDT. A trail that fills the office without overwhelming. Many compliments for the pleasant aroma. If you like lavender and fresh floral accords, you’ll love it. Very different from today’s offerings, it stands out with elegance. Ideal for 30+ and any occasion.

It was my favourite fragrance 30 years ago, back at university. Although I knew little about perfumes, I found it exquisite and looked forward to applying it every day. I used two or three bottles until it was discontinued. Then I became a devotee and started collecting, unconsciously searching for something to replace it. Thanks to Fragrantica, I found out Givenchy had relaunched it. I bought it online: same fragrance, a thinner and taller bottle with a protected applicator. I applied it last night, and the lavender and amber accompanied me through the whole night. At nine hours, I could still smell the vivid lavender. I enjoyed that scent immensely. I was worried about the reformulation; I remember the classic version as slightly more complex, but the new one holds up at 95%. Longevity and quality are excellent. It’s comparable to niche at a good price, free from hype and little-known, so wearing it saves you from the uniform scent of Bleu, Sauvage, or Aventus. Confirmed to be as good as the classic; I’m ordering more bottles to accompany me for many years.

Xeryus is a super strange and unique fragrance. It doesn’t ask anything of ultra-expensive niche scents costing $400 that aren’t worth the price. If you can still find vintage, get yours before prices rise. It’s a well-composed blend of pine, fougère, and carnation. Fresh with pronounced lavender, but it mixes elements of Kouros, Drakkar Noir, and a touch of Égoïste, more herbaceous. Long-lasting with a discreet but very well-executed trail, ostentatious with magical masculinity. It’s for someone sensual, cultured, provocative, and gallant. Not suitable for TikTok centennials or lovers of Bleu, Sauvage, Aventus, or Hollister room sprays. 9.5/10.

Givenchy arrived late to the eighties fougère party, with Kouros, Ebene, Drakkar Noir, Lauder for Men, and Antaeus already in the mix. However, Xeryus is much more refined than all of them. The best soapy fragrance from the old school. Totally versatile. What a joy to smell the pine sap, aromatic lavender, delicate clove, bitter moss, and sweet amber. There’s even a slight animalic touch that makes it even more wonderful. 10/10.

Yesterday I picked up a 25 ml vintage Xeryus, the nineties version. Upon application, green, organic, and herbal notes emerge with lavender and nutmeg (plus a touch of under-ripe black plum fruitiness); the citrus isn’t very prominent. Half an hour later, clove, rose, and geranium appear, creating a earthy floral sensation enhanced by oakmoss, fern, and vetiver. Hours later, leather and amber add a creamy, balsamic touch, alongside spicy cedar and sandalwood that distinguish it from the earthy fougères of the eighties. It smells herbal-floral and semi-gothic, like cold nights in the woods, much like Encre Noire. Good performance (6-7 hours) and moderate projection. Unlike the eighties versions, it smells clean and fresh, a step ahead of its time; it feels more nineties and easy to wear today. Ideal for quiet nights, not clubs. Fragrance 10/10, longevity 8/10, projection 8/10, trail 9/10, versatility 8/10. Total 8.6/10.

I’m going through a season where I’m fascinated by eighties and vintage aromas. Perhaps because life moves so fast that looking back helps you understand yourself better. Xeryus is a pleasant composition uniting floral notes, aromatic herbs, and amber, being quite sweet and soft with a dark touch. It projects an air of sophistication. I note it is well-made; it’s a fragrance everyone should rediscover, remaining tremendously pleasant and versatile, unaggressive, and with decent longevity. It makes me think of a good friend who wore this in the early nineties and now, in his forties, looks elegant, powerful, and refined. His favourite scent evolving with him.

Perfect for autumn and winter; the opening recalls Puig’s Quorum with fresh, intense lavender and citrus notes. It then transitions into a dark, woody base leaving a powdery, almost talcum-like trail that feels highly sophisticated. Excellent longevity and personality; a refined and uncommon fragrance. In Chile, it comes in a tall, slender bottle with a glass cap.

Strong lavender opening with green and citrus notes in the second line. The heart features tarragon and coriander, closing with a woody finish heavy on green and vetiver. It reminded me of Xeryus Rouge (which I tested in deodorant years ago), perhaps due to shared tarragon, cedar, sandalwood, and musk. In my view, the lavender and citrus in the dry-down don’t make it relevant today. Less daring than the discontinued Rouge, though large bottles are still sold (I have a 4 ml mini). Good longevity and a heavy trail initially. More suited to winter/autumn, night rather than day, and nothing youthful.