Men
Moustache Eau de Toilette Concentree
Acordes principales
Descripción
Moustache Eau de Toilette Concentrée by Rochas is an aromatic fougère fragrance for men. Launched in 1948, this composition was created by Edmond Roudnitska and Theresa Roudnitska. In its opening, the scent unfolds with a vibrant top note of lemon, citron, bergamot, lavender, petit grain and basil. The sweet floral heart is built around honey, geranium, carnation, rose and jasmine, while the base settles elegantly with oakmoss, musk, cedar, amber, vanilla and tonka bean.
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Comunidad
253 votos
- Positivo 85%
- Negativo 13%
- Neutral 2.0%
Pirámide olfativa
Estructura completa de la fragancia: de la salida al fondo.
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Propiedad
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Longevidad
Escasa
Débil
Moderada
Duradera
Muy duradera
Estela
Suave
Moderada
Pesada
Enorme
Género
Femenino
Unisex femenino
Unisex
Unisex masculino
Masculino
Precio
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Ligeramente costoso
Precio moderado
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Excelente precio
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4 reseñas
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One of the great classic citrus masculine fragrances, a honoured predecessor to beasts like Signor Ricci and the ubiquitous Acqua di Giò and Light Blue. It is super citrusy, very woody and with that green and chypre spirit that is so loved. Its name takes us back to the era when having a moustache was a sign of distinction, just as using such a fragrance. I believe you can detect reminiscences of this jewel in Eau Sauvage, which Roudnitska created later for Dior in 1966, and also in Diorella from 1972 (the original, not the reformulation), which for me are masked chypres. And perhaps later Nicolas Mamounas had these three creations by Roudnitska in mind to make his famous Eau De Rochas for the same house? Maybe. For me, these four are very similar: Moustache, Eau Sauvage, Diorella and Eau de Rochas have intense citrus notes mixed with oakmoss, which brings them closer to chypres, and floral notes that, although they remain very in the background, deliciously modulate that forest and hesperide scent. All four are very fresh but dry, soapy and very powdery, to the point that one could even say they result in being a little rough. How far Moustache is from those casual fruity scents of today. This was indeed a classy fruity masculine perfume.
When I arrived at Fragrantica (a little over two years ago) looking for information on perfumes from the past and being a big fan of the Rochas house, I came across Moustache and the excellent text left by Maeva here to have a historical dimension of this beautiful creation. Today I finally have a 75ml bottle in my hands of this beautiful specimen that has joined the list of discontinued ones that the vintage tag has reached. In Moustache and its formula lies the DNA of countless fragrances created much later; it is an aromatic pinnacle just like Worth Pour Homme. But what do we have here? Three sprays on my left inner arm and after waiting my rigorous 10 seconds, what there is is: an acute citrus explosion, bright sensations similar to those aftershaves, loaded with the same citrus and lavender that quickly descend to a rough, talcum-covered bed, even saturated in a vibrant mode where a floral edge is tied by the honey note, and the tension and vibration generate “dry anise flashes”. The whole is masculine to the utmost… in its DNA I see Lomani Pour Homme sprouting, the pillar supporting Paco Rabanne PH and also by moments Loewe PH and so many other alpha males. After 20 minutes we have a very long descent where its fougère side, as Maeva says, is a mask since the whole denotes more a nature of the chypre order due to its saturated association of floral notes with its wood and oakmoss base. After an hour and until the end we have a talc-dusted floral bouquet with tiny sparks of a bitter lemon; this phase is very classic and beautiful, with a village-like vibe that generates a kind of smell of sweat, something similar to cured leather polished with lemon oil, the whole is dense and robust. Without a doubt Edmond Roudnitska and Theresa Roudnitska with their Moustache contributed hugely to the world of scents, one only has to see their passage through Dior and review their legacy… Moustache, today fortunately has reached us, but unfortunately it has gone to never return.
I came across Fragrantica looking for information on vintage perfumes and being a Rochas admirer, I found Moustache thanks to Maeva’s text. Today I finally have my 75ml bottle of this discontinued specimen. Its formula contains the DNA of many subsequent fragrances; it is a pinnacle, just like Worth Pour Homme. Three sprays on the inner arm and after ten seconds: an acute, brilliant citrus explosion, akin to citrus and lavender aftershaves, which quickly descends to a rough, talcum-like and vibrant base where a floral edge is tied together with honey. It generates dry anise flashes. It is masculine to the maximum; in its DNA I see Lomani Pour Homme, Paco Rabanne PH, Loewe PH and other alpha males sprouting. After 20 minutes, a long descent where its fougère side acts as a mask, denoting a chypre nature due to the saturated floral notes with a wood and oakmoss base. After an hour, a talc-dusted floral bouquet with tiny sparks of bitter lemon, very classic and beautiful, with a village-like vibe that smells of sweat, cured leather polished with lemon oil. Everything is dense and robust. Edmond and Theresa Roudnitska contributed greatly to the world; Moustache has reached us, but unfortunately it has gone to never return.
I tried this over two years ago when I was a teenager; although it sounds like an adult fragrance, it was one of the most beautiful, rare and delicious scents I have ever owned. It highlighted rose, tonka bean, vanilla and honey with a sweet citrus touch and a very smoky nuance. It is a jewel, a work of art that I would return to with love and devotion.