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Paloma Picasso
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Descripción
Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso is a floral chypre fragrance for women. Launched in 1984, the nose behind this composition is Francis Bocris. The top notes reveal a bouquet of carnation, coriander, rose, angelica, neroli, bergamot and Amalfi lemon. The heart of the fragrance is built around patchouli, hyacinth, jasmine, ylang-ylang and mimosa, while the base notes land on a warm, animalic foundation of oakmoss, galbanum, castoreum, vetiver, sandalwood, musk and amber.
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Just as they describe it! As for sex, they almost describe a pair of lions marking their territory. And the truth is, it smells old to me. Vegetal decay, I don’t know, perhaps the slap part is accurate, but the sensual and orgasmic parts are not. It is warm; if I were to wear it, I would put just a drop at the nape of my neck, so as not to feel it all the time. I have enjoyed reading those reviews, almost like erotic novels.
Well… I wasn’t going to review this gem because there were too many and they were so good, but I don’t understand how such light-hearted opinions are given about creations as complex as Paloma Picasso. I don’t know if it’s due to lack of experience, age, following the fashion, or simply that they lack a nose. This work emerged with audacity in the 80s and became an icon of the era. What stands out is that it has transcended until today, something we cannot say of many current fragrances, which are sweet and caramelised (all the same and without imagination) and smell of the crowd without knowing which is which. If someone walks by wearing Paloma Picasso, everyone says they are wearing Paloma Picasso; their identity is beyond dispute. So, please, respect! And let’s clarify that fragrances have neither sex nor age; it all depends on the attitude with which you wear them. Try it, you like it, and wear it, regardless of what others think.
This is definitely one of the darkest floral chypres of the 80s. Paloma is the quintessential Latin villainess fragrance: opulent, extravagant, dramatic and intense. But where it truly shines is in its animalic notes, which stand out more than in any other chypre from that decade, making it complicated and rebellious, yet intriguing and mysterious. Nevertheless, despite its hardness, it has a very marked creamy side (likely due to the mimosa) and a dreamy green moss note. The carnation shines above all the flowers, but the hyacinth provides excellent support; they complement each other perfectly. Citrus touches envelop it without being too demanding. I have the Eau de Parfum Splash version and it is astonishing; as it settles, it reveals more of its talc-like and spicy side.
An atomic, radioactive, diabolical and lustful fragrance evoking extreme licentious elegance. Animalic, wild, sexual and sensually pure with incredible splendour. I don’t see it as a feminine scent, but rather unisex; when I wear it, the rose and coriander come through strongly, along with a hint of cloves, even though they aren’t in the formula, yet it hits me with such intensity. It is a finely ambrosial, divinely earthly work of art that suits me perfectly, and my mother adores it too. It is one of the scents I love and idolise. Its longevity is eternally generous, like a truly compliant lover.
The scent on my grandmother’s skin was captivating; she looked incredibly elegant and mysterious. But when I wore it myself… zero. It was unbearable. It struck me as impertinent, bitter, dark, even twisted. It was my worst purchase alongside Dune, which also gives me deeply unpleasant physical sensations.
PALOMA PICASSO: I bought it some time ago, but my nose wasn’t accustomed to chypres, so I gifted it to my mother, who looks spectacular in it given her personality. However, over the last few months I’ve had good experiences with others (Knowing, Diva, Animale, Magie Noire), so I decided to give it another chance. This time the scent captivated me: it’s powerful with a strong character. I mainly detect carnation, coriander and rose. It feels like a fragrance with presence and great class. I’d love to wear it for events or even daily, depending on the amount. Its trail is medium and the longevity exceeds 12 hours. I absolutely recommend this fragrance to those tired of the uniformity of trends and looking for something more. Greetings from Chile.
Gothic and fatal goddess. It carries a floral incense with musk. A limited formula, dark and animalic composition like a stealthy panther. Civet takes centre stage alongside mimosa and a sharp carnation. A cold embrace like ice, penetrating like a bullet on a Moscow night. A police novel featuring a widow seeking revenge. A vampire matriarch protecting her children with sword and elegant dance of death. There is no chypre with an oriental soul and heart that Paloma can surpass. The marine base reminds me of a walk in Santorini, a Mediterranean delight where fresh basil and chamomile mingle with the sea mist. It’s worth the price and delivers what it promises. 20 hours on my skin and the intensity never fades. It emerges when I work out, and that’s when I feel the marine and herbal tones.
Currently testing this while writing. I agree with Kaethra’s personification: it’s dry, almost cold, with herbal nuances and great complexity. I feel it shifts significantly depending on the weather. Adding to what she said, it smells like a Fellini film—a hidden expression bomb disguised in a beautiful yet discreet bottle. Edit: months later, I managed to get a vintage bottle with a cap instead of a spray. It’s wonderful; I’ve always been complimented when I wear it. The opening is intense, hesperidic, slightly pseudo-artificial but evolves beautifully. The heart is floral leaning towards citrus, unisex and balanced, totally alluring, energising and professional, in the style of signature fragrances. Finally, the moss emerges, becoming warm and herbaceous, also magnificent. Now I want to try the recent EDPs (so I save the precious vintage for special occasions). In summer, it accentuates fresh citrus notes; in winter, it turns sweeter and warmer.
Seduced by the discount, I bought the 100ml bottle online from Notino and, upon receiving it, opened the box to meet Paloma. I read it was impressive with a great sillage and longevity… On my skin, it vanished in 20 minutes. Only a light soapy trace remained. I tend to apply perfume generously, but sadly, the mysterious Paloma transformed into a skittish, timid sparrow. I am very disappointed. I think I will go to a perfumer to check the similarity and see if that perfume neutralises my skin or if I got a counterfeit.
It was the quintessential 80s icon, with that relentless advertising and the angular Picasso face on fashion covers. Back then, as a teenager, I saw pure glamour: unattainable yet omnipresent. It doesn’t represent the 80s so much as the 30s and 40s, the perfume of the femme fatale reincarnated as Dietrich or Garbo, golden Hollywood. On my skin today, it’s dominated by the carnation: a fiery Andalusian red, a tribute to its Malaga genes, sensual and harmonious with ethereal sandalwood woods, anchored by an earthy, decadent patchouli. Ultimately, it smells like luxury soap: a diva in an old bath filled with bubbles, singing copla before a romance. Picasso created something complex, over-the-top, and tipsy. It triumphed in the 80s; today it is exclusive and faithful. Those who wear it don’t change it and enjoy it for years. The performance has dropped, but not the price: it remains expensive. I noticed the carnation has taken over from the animalic and amber notes that gave it such superb fixity; I suppose regulations and synthetics are to blame. Nevertheless, it has personality and glamour. Its trail is elegant and sophisticated. Now I see it as more daytime, ideal for powerful, executive women. It represents the decadent glamour of a strong, authoritative woman. A masterpiece of perfumery.
Anna Cé, is the one that’s all opaque not another one, the Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum?
On my skin, the oakmoss, vetiver, and sandalwood embrace the amber, fusing to give me the delicious sensation of being by a fireplace, like freshly burnt wood without any smoke smell. This gives it a masculine touch that I love. But soon the Ylang Ylang with the animal notes kicks in and everything goes to hell (I don’t like them).
Sad to share with @AnnaCé and @Nanatere13. I opened the Paloma Picasso EDP I bought a month ago and… what happened to it??? It smells almost the same but is soft, timid, like a cologne. On my skin it lasted barely ten minutes and left a faint trail that disappeared quickly. I use the old version for over 20 years; it was always powerful, invasive yet exquisite, glorious and intoxicating, with a heavy sillage and long-lasting… This is a joke. Cruel. Oh dear! We’ll have to hunt down earlier versions of these past glories.
I was keen to try it thanks to a vintage miniature I borrowed. It is true that it recalls Magie Noire by Lancôme, though Magie Noire is more honeyed, spiced, and darker due to the incense. Paloma Picasso has a more soapy, deep evolution and is totally unisex, like the Magno shower gel by La Toja. When it dries, the oakmoss stands out, reminding me of Eau de Lancaster. I admit that for the first half-hour it was unbearable, but over time it won me over. I don’t imagine it for shy or reserved women, but for those with character. It’s a scent that says ‘here I am’; if you don’t like it, you put up with it. I wouldn’t wear it myself, but it’s a good fragrance. Although it lasts quite a while, on my skin it didn’t stay as long as I expected.
We all say there’s no age or gender for perfumes, but that doesn’t apply here. Paloma Picasso EDP is complex, selective, and elitist. It’s not just any fragrance; the name tells you everything. To wear it, you need plenty of glamour or mystery. Age is irrelevant; what’s required is maturity, and above all, an excess of confidence. I can’t imagine a shy person wearing this. You don’t need to show off; the perfume does it for you. You arrive and, without saying a word, you impose, intrigue, and intimidate; everyone knows you’re no ordinary person. It smells of POWER. It’s as complex as a fine wine; you have to savour it. Strong notes between flowers, woods, and that animal plus that makes it unique. I imagine a white woman with black hair, dressed in black, red lips and nails, bold eyeliner, and high heels. A vampire. Or an 80s woman with burgundy hair, excessive makeup, gold jewellery, heels, and flawless grooming. Or a formal man in black, mysterious, few words, unsettling, making you wonder if he’s alive or supernatural. P.S. It’s my mother’s favourite and signature scent since she was young, alongside Mystère by Rochas (which no longer exists, what a pity). Of those two, I felt they suited her personality. As a child, I loved being hugged when she wore them; she’d let the perfume linger all day, and I felt protected. That’s why I hold a special affection for them. When she wears it, it reminds me of childhood and makes me happy.
It brings me very bad memories. My mother wears it and it becomes so strong that it gives me nausea. I know it is a glorious classic for many, but for me it was a horror. I cannot smell it; it bothers me even so. Its trail is tremendous.
I find it interesting and glamorous. My mother wore it since she was in her 30s, and when I entered adolescence, I felt encouraged to try it and I loved it! (although it is usually for older people). I have much affection for it because it was one of the first I used, though for now I prefer to continue discovering new things. 💖
For a women’s perfume to feel almost masculine after 35 years says much about the 80s. There is nothing like this style today, save for languid florals that are no longer for men. The 80s night was dark and wild; the killer chypre reigned. They advertised silk models, but Conan the Barbarian would have fitted better. Extreme seduction, ruthless nature, decadence, and danger. Paloma Picasso is the epitome: she raises even the dead. Knowing was fruity, La Nuit soapy and clay-like (my favourite), Eau de Soir intellectual, and Diva Parisian. Picasso is the maverick: she feels nothing, suffers nothing, and does not wish to please. Those who get hooked must ask permission; this is haughtiness and insolence. I prefer the base notes: turpentine-like moss. The opening is a sharp blast of acrid moss and spicy coriander that melts steel. The moss is raw, with sour sweetness and coriander/poppy seed smoke. I do not sense the animal aspect as much as in La Nuit or Parfum de Peau; here it is coriander, moss, and varnished carnations, cawing like crows. A forest tone with turpentine, virgin or dead wood. It relates to Eau de Soir through the woody patchouli. I do not feel comfortable due to the acidity; I lack earth, musk, rain, and mud. It is a perverse and hypnotic masterpiece. Picasso did not like it, yet it entered the pantheon of the best. PS: Magnificent perfumes work better with sober clothing. They are selfish, for people who wear few colours, do not change their hair, and know one need not say thank you. It is the Self, the Ego made into fragrance. A beauty.
A perfume with a bite. Nothing subtle, timid, cloying, or sweet. It is elegant, intense, and noticeable; it demands great personality (or it imposes it on you). It is a chypre with a strong presence, far removed from today’s trends. Very animalic, with the base notes taking centre stage. A masterpiece of the 80s. You need a trained nose to appreciate this jewel. Not suitable for noses accustomed to gourmand or sweet scents.
Key word: singular. Not for everyone; a vanguard unisex jewel from the 80s that has become timeless. Not for teens; it’s one of those scents you either love or hate. Some hated it at first before becoming addicted and buying it repeatedly. Enigmatic, intense, elegant, and sensual, it stands out among thousands. I perceive the animal notes as wild elixirs that transport me. The floral profile is dominated by carnation, with citrus playing a lesser role, though this depends on pH. I repeat: it is not for every nose. If you gift it, proceed with caution and check if they will like it.
A journey with a fragrance from the past it evokes a comfortably soft sensation it is always something special. Perfumes of once were olfactory bombs formulated to magnify their animal energy by elevating the volume of the notes instead of letting them whisper their power. I find the scent relatively angular almost rough. But it leaves halos of extraordinary sophistication and strict elegance around you. This floral-animal chypre creation presents a notable explosion of civet and aldehydes in its opening combined with roses carnation and hyacinth (what I perceive most). Coriander and mimosa surround the flowers both narcotic (jasmine ylang-ylang) transposing them to another more forceful level. Green floral woody spicy mossy and animal Paloma Picasso is feminine in a very unconventional way it draws a woman who knows what life is not pink and pure. I would say it is among the best chypres ever composed it is so complex and beautiful. It may seem too angular noisy colourful opulent and sharp in some phase… But yes it is suitable for an independent and secure person. (Review based on a late 90s version).
Mina Harker has gone for a walk. When I first met this perfume I was a teenager and it did not catch my attention it was more like my first perfumistic love CK One. Recently they offered me a miniature and when I smelled it the first thing that came to my mind was the image of a woman with very pale skin black hair and red lips the advertising was so well done that almost 30 years later I could evoke Paloma Picasso. It could be said that it is at once muse model and creator of a work of art a well-done intense sophisticated and impactful perfume. It is not for any occasion it is for the night or a work meeting where one wants to impose oneself. Although in my opinion perfumes do not have age it should be used from the age of 30 due to its sophistication and audacity; using one like this in the era of post-lunch snacks will make you a vampire among adolescents dressed in immaculate black with the only touch of colour in blood-red or intense red lips. When entering the room everyone will smell that strange scent they will look at you and only raise an eyebrow and continue on their way since if they smile they will see your fangs. Great longevity and trail like any 80s perfume. Searching in my memory I remembered a scent I had smelled recently and it was La Panthère de Cartier perhaps due to the use of moss rose and patchouli both have that vintage air and make you think of something feline or hunting in the urban jungle. I hope they have not discontinued this work of art.
I bought it for my mother who said it was a perfume she could never have that when she smelled it she felt that that’s the one! but she could never get it a colleague from her old job had it. I never saw the advertisement or anything only the red box with black and gold leaves. When I smelled it undoubtedly I had smelled it before I feel it smells like my mum although she never had it. Haha perhaps she found similar notes in her life. It is special within what vintage it is (it has that something ambered from the era) it is modern youthful and fresh. I smell the carnation and in its trail it reminds me of the rose button of Chloe but with a soft spicy sting and sandalwood always present. Rich I think of elegance black colour sophistication but at the same time somewhat soapy the musk with the mimosa and angelica. Intriguing mysterious seductive too elegant for what I use but it catches my attention. I imagine a woman in a black blazer driving her black leather car independent and with personality but with a soft side secretly and rosy cheeks. Coincidentally reading the reviews seemed to read my mum it also has a strong character. I hope she likes it because I almost kept it for myself haha.
A sensual and carnal aroma a jumble of legs between sheets at night to lust.
On my skin the first 15 minutes smell strange due to those heavy notes of moss aldehydes and castoreum (if you have cats your scent will be like wild cat due to the aldehydes I tested it with mine). Then it softens and becomes sophisticated highlighting the carnation. It is vintage but not heavy like others I like it although it is annoying at first. EDIT: At first it smells of resins woods and spices but if you move it away with air you note a milky and fruity sweetness. SUMMARY: up close it smells of a resinous base and aldehydes the rest others will notice somewhat oppressive try before buying.
Paloma Picasso does not seem to me as fierce a Chypre as they paint it. Of course the bottle I have is of recent manufacture… If it was a very animalic Chypre then certainly now the beast is somewhat hidden among the thick brushwood but it has bite so I imagine that the one from the 80s would have let out bites into the air. If its presence was like that of its owner it must have been intimidating. In those days and for several years the advertisement was very publicised in the pages of couché paper and it was rare to find a Hola where the full-page photo of a glacial Paloma Picasso did not appear trying to hide between her red-gloved hands a murderous grimace that rivaled that of Jeanne Moreau in The Bride Wore Black . I read other reviews that define it as hosco and stinging. I do not think it was born to awaken affection or sympathy but there are more aggressive Chypres in its same line I testify (Chique by Milton Lloyd for example is a borderline almost masculine scent that takes your knife out before you have time to say hello . Starting from there I expected a monster of bitterness and although its opening is somewhat astringent it does not seem so aggressive to me. The audacity of opening with a coriander and aniseed carnation won me from the first minute and that intense spicy bursting carnation has placed Paloma Picasso at the top of my personal perfume ranking with this note. I was still looking for bitterness and on the contrary the carnation sweetens with mimosa and gains body with creamy ylang-ylang and patchouli. As it dries the animalic aspect begins to appear light and subdued by the moss but uniform and velvety. Rich and opulent it only frustrates me that it projects reasonably well for only 3 or 4 hours and does not become the invader monster I imagined. On the skin it lasts about 10 hours and I suspect that regarding performance it must lose considerably compared to its first version. I find much in common with Jil Sander n. 4: the liquorice note (anise in Jil’s case and angelica in Paloma’s) the warm sting of coriander powerful flowers like carnation and ylang-ylang the dark earthiness of the moss and an amber aldehydic note more intense and refined for my taste in Jil Sander n. 4. And the sharp challenging gazes of their respective mothers two untamed and independent lionesses who followed their own path and dared to go hunting alone in the perfumery savannah of the 80s. In a decade where music videos (those that came on TV and not on Facebook or YouTube) and advertising in general presented a hyper-feminised woman with no other purpose in life than to conquer the opposite sex with pouty faces they dared to make their distant and untamed attitude a weapon of seduction.
I am a man but I want to tell you what happened with this perfume; I have always liked its scent in fact I use it but one day I put it in my backpack and accidentally broke it. The result was that when I got on the bus a man was sitting at the front and stood up to sit next to me. The matter is that he kept me talking and I came to the conclusion that this perfume has great power but on women. Why is it a totally feminine scent? I also use Minotauro and in my opinion it is an aphrodisiac; both are.
I bought Paloma Picasso as an imitation of Paulvic: Scarf which is sold in Argentina. I was intrigued by that distinct floral scent it was all about the carnations. When Paloma Picasso arrived I was amazed by its presentation a black box in contrast to intense red and the bottle seems incredible. When I first smelled it I was disappointed; it was a very earthy dry almost rotting scent. It took about four hours for the fragrance to become EXQUISITE! In its dry down it mimics Scarf by Paulvic perfectly. Paloma Picasso is a pure autumn/winter perfume a dark night. It leaves an incredible trail and penetrates clothes for many weeks. It is somewhat oily so one must be careful with fabrics. On my skin it lasts more than 16 hours and activates with water the next day. The oakmoss and civet stand out strongly in its opening. When it dries it is incredibly hypnotic and the carnations emerge with force. Completely unisex and it generates several compliments… Animale is often compared to Paloma; Animale is more soapy and from its opening is equal to the dry down of Paloma Picasso with a greener touch. Personally I prefer Animale if I want to smell like the dry down of Paloma Picasso from the start although it lasts a few hours less. Another similar scent is Poison by Dior the classic; in its opening it is somewhat similar but more sweetened.
Greenness mossiness and elegant almost medicinal earth. It has a small but very present floral sparkle thanks to the carnation. It is of course a vintage scent from an era when Cabochard Chanel 19 Magie Noire or Amazone were successful. They were the sought-after sophisticated green femininity from the 1970s onwards. The green combined with the red. Roots plants and moss combined with a bouquet of carnations that balances the perfume masking the greenery. Vintage green florality.
If this is the fragrance I imagined (for days at the music faculty I was getting monstrous projection vibes until a fellow student with an olfactory fatigue like mine noticed it from six metres away without wind and fortunately it was extremely pleasant to me due to its similarity to another scent I like) then a lecturer I know who teaches at my faculty wears it. As far as I could tell it is practically identical to Givenchy’s Gentleman from 1974 and is totally unisex if not slightly leaning masculine. It lacks the hard leather note of Gentleman but the heart seemed similar to me with a certain chocolatey patchouli and floral aroma quite interesting.
Carnation and mimosa honey covered in moss. Variety of bitter and ancient flowers. The green tones of the hyacinth and angelica are evident; am I in a garden? where the magical hands of a wise woman weave life around me. Wild jasmine, pink roses, living woods over fertile soil nourished by rain. Mysterious, without sweetness. Update: oh my God, this is a puzzle with every piece in its place in perfect harmony; this symphony of flowers offers an animal background in time with a patchouli, so sexual, mature, unisex, I am keeping it.
The Kouros feminine… It is what, in my opinion, this fragrance evokes in its perfume version. I am not saying they are similar or have anything to do with each other, I just say that if Kouros had a sister, it would undoubtedly be this. What complexity, what quality, what olfactory pleasure, how far from everything conventional, and what luck that it still exists today. The truth is that it is one of the fragrances that has taken the most work for me to enjoy alongside Kouros, but once you understand them, they are a delight for the senses. Flowers, honey, that animal touch, the moss… It is masterful. I imagine a maison full of mannequins dressed by Saint Laurent with Paloma’s jewels and an atmosphere charged with cigarette smoke and the house’s star fragrance at the time: Y. I do not know if it has suffered many reformulations because I only have a couple of miniatures from the 90s and I have not tried the current versions. It is not a fragrance for everyone, but I recommend it to everyone who loves this type of high-quality perfumery with a retro touch, regardless of gender.
Try to get the formula of the classic black bottle with the transparent centre, as shown in the image, because the current one (black cap and the rest of the bottle transparent) is very long-lasting; however, it loses the heavy opening that was characteristic.
I tried the newly reformulated version. It keeps the soul but it is not the same. I feel it is full of coriander and moss; it lost that full animal opening it had when my mamá used to wear it back in the 90s.
This perfume is a delight and has unique longevity ♥️
It could be like a time travel to the 80s and those intense, strong, floral, woody, and earthy scents, with a lot of presence and impact. It projects quite a bit and lasts; it can become overpowering in the heat, but it is perfect in winter. I find it very similar to Animale.
I bought it in 2024 to gift it to my mamá (she adores it), the original. The one everyone knows has been reformulated and is very similar to the 90s version in scent, but I feel it is slightly less heavy, perhaps with a sweeter opening and less sharp. I couldn’t say exactly, but it is not the typical scent we expect from the beginning of a Paloma… so much so that my mamá thought I had bought her a different perfume. After about 10 minutes, it settles and the characteristic scent appears that we are used to. The longevity remains brutal, as does its trail (where my mamá moves, the perfume is felt in open spaces, on the stairs, in the patio; even on the other floor of the building, the scent lingers for quite a while). Having said that, it is not a perfume to my liking; I value it but do not like it entirely, I would never wear it, I find it too fussy, with too many notes, and heavy.
I don’t like it at all; there is a note that makes me feel sick. I think it is the rough and hard version of Ungaro’s Diva (the perfume I adore). I gifted it to my grandmother in the end, a 30ml EDP.
Paloma Picasso (Vintage, 1984) EDP 75ml. – Structure: Chypre-floral-leather. For years, I wanted to add this iconic piece to my collection. It is one of the most solid examples of the 80s chypre style. From the outset, Paloma Picasso displays a complex structure with a very marked and three-dimensional evolution. The first thing I notice are green and pink nuances interwoven with citrus, spicy, and slightly aldehydic accords. The heart features opulent, enveloping, and narcotic flowers. Among roses and jasmine, the carnation and hyacinth impose their spicy and green character, giving body and texture. At the same time, a creamy softness from the ylang-ylang rounds off the edges. The earthy base consists of woods and oak moss. Its dark and persistent character intensifies with a leather accord, enriched with castoreum and civet, adding depth and sensuality. It is intense, with great projection and longevity. On skin, a few drops are enough. Its profile commands presence and authority. In my opinion, it is neither versatile nor discreet, but it is a clear declaration of style and sophistication. It reflects the glamour of 80s elegance at its peak.
What a gorgeous, feminine, and potent fragrance; a single spray lasts all day. When I tried it again after more than 30 years without smelling it, I bought the original for my mamá, who used to wear it in the 90s. Literally closing my eyes, I saw her getting ready for work while I put on my school uniform, my mother passing by me leaving her trail of Paloma Picasso wherever she went. Thank God I still enjoy her presence, a blessing, but recalling that moment made a tear roll down my cheek. Finding this vintage perfume was a triumph to gift it to my precious mother, and I couldn’t let the opportunity pass.