Knowing by Estée Lauder

A total showstopper, an unforgettable fragrance that made me buy it again after years. Now I notice more spice and amber, and it certainly stands out.

One of Lauder’s great treasures: beautiful, rare, unique, and enigmatic. You either fall in love with it or hate it from the first sniff; it’s a pure explosion of sensations. It remains wonderful, though it’s not quite the same as before. Fortunately, this work of art has nothing of those pastely, cloying notes like currant syrup; it’s made for people with strong personalities, far from what social media and advertising promote today.

An eighties fragrance with an old-school designer touch, now within reach of any wallet, for strong women and also for postmodern men of the fourth sex. It’s a Cypriot floral with an aldehydic trail reminiscent of Chanel No 5; it passes through wherever it goes and lasts longer than a day without bread. Someone said it smells like a rich lady, and it’s not a bad analogy. Naturally, it’s not for silly girls, fans of CH slippers, or anyone under 35 or 40. Performance and projection are old-school: a minimum of 10 hours, a trail for 30 minutes, and it lingers on clothes forever until you throw it in the bin. It’s worth much less than any current rubbish yet is 100,000 times better than 95% of today’s designer perfumery. A real perfumazo. The equivalent for serious, mature gentlemen, in auntie terms, is Guerlain’s Heritage: La Résistance.

I LOVE IT! I am gradually becoming a fan of 1980s perfumes. Does it give me an air of Hermès 24 Faubourg? It might. I tried it on my wrist and it initially impacted me, but the dry-down is superb and the more time passes, the better it smells. It is warm yet striking at the same time, sensual for a woman, perfect for an autumn/winter dinner with a breeze. It lasts a long time and I feel the scent does not fade even if you rub it. I had to buy it because I loved it; I am over the comments saying it ‘smells like an older lady’; those who say that do not know anything about perfumes. I do not know if it was reformulated, but I feel it has always smelled this way. It smells like a wealthy woman, yes.

A surprise. I didn’t know about it and thanks to a friend I was able to try it. I was surprised by the fragrance itself and that it is still available, which speaks volumes about it. I must say that when it was launched it must have smelled different, as some ingredients have been dropped due to restrictions. Nevertheless, it is powerful from the first moment. It displays a very distinct character, which I appreciate. It has that aldehyde opening reminiscent of Chanel No. 5, those that bring cleanliness and clarity to the floral notes. In all its complexity, a earthy, rough patchouli is perceptible, something I like very much; it is a fragrance with a robust body, far from absurd banalities and pastel colours. I can’t imagine a frequent user being assiduous at the game of appearances; I have in mind a ‘lady’ (not by age, but by attitude, confidence, elegance and firmness) who has more important things to do. It is a point of view; perhaps there is someone who doesn’t fit my imagination and enjoys this fragrance. In any case, the development is rich in nuances but difficult for me to identify, and perhaps that is better because it is the result that makes Knowing so attractive to me. I must say it is not for sensitive noses nor for users accustomed to excess, as it can be very uncomfortable for the person and their surroundings. Nor do I see it as a summer or spring product. I imagine the sensible thing is to approach it with an open mind, in cold seasons and on several occasions, even if only to know something away from the current trends.

If I had to define it in one word: elegant. It is a strong scent without being cloying, dry and woody. For me, it is more for night or cold days. I love it; it has a great trail and excellent longevity.

While Beautiful is the dreamy sister in a white gown, Knowing is the black sheep: individualistic, sharp-tongued and intriguingly androgynous, evoking a black tuxedo, voluminous hair and delicate bracelets. It pairs well with heavyweights like Paloma Picasso or Coco Chanel. It opens with a dark, poisonous rose, a deep green floral chypre. It plays with masculine notes such as cardamom and laurel, adding earthy, natural patchouli and moss. There is a spicy facet of coriander and lily, yet its sweet aura of honey and plum softens it. The dry-down is oriental, with woods, ambered spices and an animalic base that makes you surrender. It is colossal, intoxicating and not for everyone. The new amber-brown formula is 50% of the original due to restrictions, but it remains more interesting than many current launches. Simply beautiful perfume!

I wanted to try it because many reviews describe it as mossy. In reality, it is a complex scent, a powerful and mature vintage in the style of Paloma Picasso. It brings to mind a woman in a sharply padded blazer, 1980s style. It opens with intense aldehydes, like Chanel No. 5. Then the mimosa and cardamomo emerge; it recreates the yellow colour and cloudy texture of the flower. At the end, I notice a very powdery rose, slightly darkened by laurel and softened with sandalwood. Unfortunately, I did not find the moss, cedar or vetiver that would have given that damp earthy tone I was seeking. In my view, it is not an easy perfume nor one that suits all skin types. The trail is incredibly potent for the first hour, then it softens. Longevity is 8–10 hours.

One of my first encounters with retro floral cypresses. Unlike today’s perfumes, which are so flat, cloying and disposable, Knowing has layer upon layer of velvet curtains that must be slowly opened to discover who is wearing it. It is dusty pink, slightly bitter and mossy. Sobriety, mystery and elegance. It is not worn with tracksuits or pastel colours. Neither an influencer nor a trend-chasing girl would wear it. It does not sell itself; it is very introspective. I am eager for autumn to arrive so I can wear it.

Divine, yet so narcotic and potent that it’s unsuitable for hot climates, where it would be unbearable. It is perfect for cold or autumnal weather. It is majestic, haughty, and demands the confidence to wear it. Sumptuously elegant, stately, and impossible to ignore. Lauder perfumes are unforgettable, and this one is striking with a bestial intensity. A delicious, radiactively sensual bomb. It is very similar to Balenciaga’s Rumba and a little like Ungaro’s Diva.

Oppressive.

Another baroque gem from Estée Lauder that adds to her distinctive fragrance necklace. Refined, elegant, dry and perfect, though it turns slightly sour after half an hour with a softness. Alongside others from the previous era such as Cinnabar or Youth Dew, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find them. This perfume deserves a 10 and is not ‘for ladies’; it is for a beautiful Woman or Man who keeps their perfume like a treasure. It smells of respect for perfumery.

An arid, dry, woody, resinous, spicy, penetrating, warm and voluptuous fragrance. It possesses a superb elegance that is evident everywhere. It seems as though Knowing chooses its wearer; it almost has its own personality, but when there is perfect chemistry, it is eternal love. It needs to be admired and combined with the luxury of the night and exclusive pleasures. It is impossible not to think of women in impeccable black tuxedos, empowered and in command of themselves. A gem from the late 1980s, contemporary with Paloma Picasso, Animale, Diva, Creation and others of the era. Knowing continues to shine as a superb and energetic star, true to itself.

If applied correctly, it leaves an incredible trail that envelops you. It is supremely elegant and lasts a long time. Ideally suited for winter or going out at night.

My mother’s idol… it is truly winter-appropriate! Very ladylike. When it first launched, it surely had rivals such as L’Art or P. Picasso.