Men
Hermessence Vetiver Tonka
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Descripción
Hermessence Vetiver Tonka by Hermès is a woody-chypre fragrance for men and women. Launched in 2004, this olfactive composition features the nose of Jean-Claude Ellena.
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2,255 votos
- Positivo 88%
- Negativo 7.5%
- Neutral 4.2%
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Another great Hermès perfume. It smells better to me than Ambre Narguile, although both are very good. At first, I notice a lot of vetiver, fresh and woody. Gradually, the caramel appears, especially the praline and hazelnut, which give it an exquisite gourmand touch. In the end, the vetiver hides and leaves a sweeter scent. Unlike Ambre Narguile, this one lasted less on me. The longevity is short, more than I would like, and the projection is also short, except for the first few minutes. Still, it’s an excellent perfume, although the price seems high. It’s unisex and for cold weather, although it can also be worn in spring without problems.
The gourmand woody base is an original success that I enjoyed, though it has its drawbacks. Performance is decent, but the intensity feels a bit underwhelming for the price; I would have preferred it to be slightly sweeter. Despite the listed notes, I detect a salty edge that doesn’t quite blend with the rest, much like the lily of the valley note. The Ambre Narguile by Compis has been copied numerous times; I believe VT’s dominant accord lends itself to this, as Pal Zileri did before. It would be wonderful if a reputable brand produced it and rectified these flaws.
To start, the gourmand wood accord seems very original and I like it. But I have my reservations because it’s not perfect for me. The performance isn’t bad, but the intensity is a bit low for its price. I would like it to be sweeter. Despite the notes, I find a salty point that doesn’t fit with the rest, just like the lily of the valley. Ambre Narguile has been imitated many times, and I think the dominant accord of VT also lends itself to it, as Pal Zileri does. It would be great if a major brand made it and fixed the negative points I see.
At first, it smells gourmand with tonka bean, hazelnut, and caramel, but then the intensity drops to make way for a soft tobacco and vetiver. The dry down is vetiver, sandalwood, and a powdery touch reminiscent of the lily of the valley. It’s a special and original fragrance, with well-integrated sweet notes that make it elegant and sophisticated, typical of Hermès. With a small sample (0.5 ml), I had a moderate sillage for a few hours and then it became weaker, although it lasts more than 12 hours. I think it’s a good option for winter and more for evening wear.
@Espartaco: I have good and bad news. The good: Vetiver Tonka is still alive. The bad: the 200€ don’t reach my pocket. By the way, top review. Greetings.
There comes a moment when with so many niche houses, fake niches, and exclusive lines that aren’t worth it, a perfumer must invent rare blends to sell them as the last Coca-Cola of the desert. Vetiver Tonka was one of the first of the expensive lines from traditional houses, Hermessence, and looking at the ingredients, it seems to play in that league of mixing apples and oranges. The note list inspired distrust before I tried it. What does vetiver have to do with caramel, praline, and that infernal coumarin? The thing is, it works brilliantly. It’s so well made that the gourmand side doesn’t have the spotlight; it smells like a classic formula floating in a cloud. It shouldn’t be called Vetiver Tonka, but rather Vetiver Noisette or Vetiver Tabac, because those are the notes that lead and steer. Damn, it’s so beautiful, earthy and refreshing. It smells like a shower, wet earth, classic tobacco, not cloying, but dirty musk, a bit of earthy and wet orris. The overall image is an ultra-refreshing and woody soap. At first, because later it dissipates, there’s with the same sticky body of ethyl maltol a repugnant phosphorescent pink effluvium that I run from as soon as I smell it, but so well balanced with the earthy notes that I even appreciate it. Ethyl maltol isn’t the king; it just accompanies the wood and the wet field green, giving it a subtle neon edge that I love. This is a marvel, a rich and fragrant daytime cologne, loaded with woody green nuances, wet, with notes of wet earth, nuts, and a certain composure of hollowed, crunchy, leafy cork wood, edible, almost malleable. From time to time, I feel the urge to spend money on a silly indulgence to satisfy my consumerist urges. When I’m possessed by that feeling of buying an expensive perfume, I always think about grabbing a bottle of this Hermès. And at the last moment, I stop… the reason is simple: however good it is, Vetiver Tonka is nothing more than a men’s soap for daily use in spring. Delicious, surprising, and beautiful. But I won’t spend 200€ on a woody water. The truth is, I think it’s already discontinued, so they’re doing my wallet a favour even more, because I know sooner or later I would have ended up throwing money away on this Hermessence. As consolation, I have an 8 ml vial they gave me ages ago in a Hermès burlap bag along with five more from the collection. When I want to remember it, I spray it on the palm of my hand and make do with what will no longer be. A lost opportunity for Hermès to incorporate this beauty into its popular line; the world deserves to be able to discover it and fall in love with a vetiver that has the ability to seduce me, being as it is a note that in most occasions turns my stomach. There’s nothing here of those boiled, gaunt nuances that it prides itself on almost always, that oily crud smell that makes me think of a freshly dismembered chicken breast or a jar of rancid oil. This vetiver is pure wood, soap, and earth. PS: Longevity is pretty bad, sillage is non-existent.
I think with so many niche houses, fake niches, and exclusive lines that aren’t worth a penny, some perfumer must invent weird blends to sell them as the last Coca-Cola of the desert. Vetiver Tonka was one of those expensive first editions from Hermessence, and looking at the ingredients, it seems to mix churras con merinas (apples and oranges). Before trying it, the note list scared me: vetiver with caramel? with praline? with that infernal coumarin? The truth is, it works brilliantly. It’s so well made that the gourmand side doesn’t dominate; it smells like a classic formula floating in a cloud. This shouldn’t be called Vetiver Tonka, but rather Vetiver Noisette or Tabac, because those are the notes that lead. Damn, what a beauty, so earthy and refreshing. It smells like a shower, wet earth, old tobacco, not sweet, but with that dirty musk, a bit of wet orris, but above all, it’s an ultra-refreshing and woody soap. At first, because later it fades, there’s that sticky body of ethyl maltol and a repugnant phosphorescent pink effluvium that I run from as soon as I smell it, but so well balanced with the earthy notes that I even appreciate it. Ethyl maltol isn’t the king; it just accompanies the wood and the wet field green, giving it a subtle neon edge that I love. It’s a marvel, a rich and fragrant daytime cologne, loaded with woody green nuances, wet, with notes of wet earth, nuts, and hollowed, crunchy, leafy cork wood. From time to time, I feel like spending money on a silly indulgence to satisfy my consumerist urges. When I think about buying an expensive perfume, I always want to grab a bottle of this Hermès. But at the last moment, I stop… the reason is simple: however good it is, Vetiver Tonka is nothing more than a men’s soap for daily use in spring. Delicious, surprising, and beautiful, but I won’t spend 200€ on a woody water. The truth is, I think it’s already discontinued, so they’re doing my wallet a favour, because I know sooner or later I would have thrown money away on this Hermessence. As consolation, I have an 8 ml vial they gave me ages ago in a Hermès burlap bag along with five more from the collection. When I want to remember it, I spray it on my palm and make do with what will no longer be. A lost opportunity for Hermès to include this beauty in their popular line; the world deserves to discover it and fall in love with a vetiver that has the ability to seduce me, being a note that in most occasions turns my stomach. There’s nothing here of those boiled, gaunt nuances that it prides itself on, that oily crud smell that makes me think of a freshly dismembered chicken breast or a jar of rancid oil. This vetiver is pure wood, soap, and earth. PS: Longevity is pretty bad, sillage is non-existent.
Interesting.
Hermessence Vetiver Tonka by Hermès starts with a brilliant combo: sweet and soft notes with that earthy touch of vetiver. As it dries down, the vetiver mixes with tobacco and tonka bean, which is incredible! It sounds 90% like Nuit de Megève by Eight & Bob, a top-tier scent. However, the longevity is weak, and the sillage and projection are low, so I think the price is excessive for what it offers. I’ll stick with Nuit de Megève. Age: 30+, 60% male/40% female, all year round, work and going out. Scent rating: 8.8/10, 12 sprays. Longevity: 6/10, lasts 2-4 hours. Sillage: 6/10, projection: 6.5/10, versatility: 9/10, value for money: 5/10. Final score: 6.88/10. Thanks and goodbye.
A complete rip-off. Insane price for a perfume that doesn’t even exist. Smells like tonka bean and caramel, super sweet, with a touch of wood (though not vetiver), but without losing the sugar. It’s totally flat, lacking nuances or character, linear and boring. It feels like those imitation Arab houses in cheap bottles, a total letdown.