The Italian Artists of Via Solferino

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• waLplanet

  November 29, 2025

  

  To be honest, I almost threw this perfume away. It’s from Trussardi Le Vie di Milano’s dog collection, which are absolute gems, but The Italian Artists of Via Solferino sounded like a distant memory to me. Today, months later, I smelled it again and it was a revelation. I’ve rediscovered an elegant, characterful fragrance I’d overlooked, swapping my first impression for a brilliant understanding. It opens with a mineral, spicy, vibrant burst. At first, the alcohol confused me, but I recognised that mineral accord: an almost tactile freshness, a pleasant sting that screams this isn’t typical commercial floral. It’s a welcome that wakes you up and dispels prejudices. Having drunk mate for years, I recognised that note instantly; it appears at the start, herbaceous and dry, though it fades shortly after. I don’t detect the yuzu. But when the mineral notes settle, the true protagonist, the real storyteller, emerges: osmanthus. This masterful ingredient gives the unique personality, driving from the heart through to the dry down. At first it’s complex and oily: it smells like what I used to hear as a child at the olive oil co-op, an olive factory, something refined, soft and sweetened, with its full fruity and oleic character. You need patience, because this chameleon note evolves quickly. Once it settles, the osmanthus shows its leathery side, turning into a fine suede. The most surprising part is the end, when it seems to have finished: I wondered, where are the peony and magnolia? Did I miss something? It’s in this moment of calm where the osmanthus completes its journey. The suede recedes subtly and what remains is its purest, cleanest, most balanced floral essence. A splendid dry down, where the petals, guided by the faint sweetness of the osmanthus, reclaim the spotlight floating on the skin, leaving a final luminous trail with green hints I suspect are from a patchouli (nothing chocolatey, but vegetal and clean). The Italian Artists of Via Solferino is a layered composition: mineral at the start, dominated by the various faces of the osmanthus (oily, suede-like and finally floral). It’s proof that sometimes perfumes need time (and my patience) to reveal their true beauty.