Trouble Iridescent Eau Légère

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• pipisroom

  April 1, 2021

  

  The first chill of the season fills me with immense joy, not merely because the sticky, maddening heat finally ends, but because it’s time to choose my favourite fragrances: the oriental and gourmands, those that embrace you with tenderness and warmth, as if their scent alone could clothe you. Yet every new day presents a dilemma: choosing one means the other misses its chance. It’s an irrational thought, a daily conundrum. Perhaps to others it sounds like a clinical case, but among us, the enthusiasts, it’s perfectly normal. This week the temperature dropped and I began to bring out the top-shelf scents, my ‘autumn-winter’ collection. Today I chose Trouble Eau Légère Iridescent by Boucheron, a limited edition jewel from 2005 created by Jacques Cavallier. Although I’m not a fan of nacarat fragrances as they can stain, this magnificent scent makes me forgive that flaw. Searching Fragrantica, Basenotes and Parfumo, I found little information: just the year, the perfumer and vague notes. Here is my take. Straight from the atomiser, it smells of burnt vanilla, slightly sparkling, neither heavy nor balsamic. Upon application, I’m hypnotised: a fresh, acidic citrus opening that stimulates my salivary glands. It doesn’t smell of orange, but rather lemon or bergamot. It’s sweet from the start yet very fresh. The acidity gradually fades without disappearing, while the amber and vanilla take centre stage. It becomes creamy, sweet but not cloying. I’ve read it has floral accords; yes, they’re likely there, but I can’t distinguish specific flowers, more like a bouquet submerged in vanilla and amber. The magic is that this citrus note never leaves the scene, oxygenating the sweetness and making it addictive. In the dry down, it reminds me a bit of Burberry Brit Gold, though this is less dense and spicy. As it’s a nacarat, it must be applied only to skin and hair, and its performance is fantastic. Perhaps it lacks an overwhelming sillage, but it has dreamlike quality. Thanks to this jewel, now that it’s cold, I can finally enjoy it as it deserves.