Parisian Musc by Matiere Premiere

A fig-musk that screams fig. Although it claims to be Parisian, it evokes the French Riviera, a Mediterranean town, or someone of means in the tropics. It’s not urban, yet versatile for any occasion. I’m not an expert on musks, but it feels fresh, comforting, warm like skin, elegant and reassuring. I imagine green at the start and milky white at the end. It’s lighter, less creamy, and whiter rather than greener than Philosykos, and it lasts much longer. I’ll buy the large size once I’ve finished the decant.

It’s got me in a bit of a pickle. Apart from smelling like the very latest in sweetness, I get the distinct impression it smells like overripe fruit or rotting potato on my skin. It’s probably just my chemistry, but I’d recommend trying it before buying.

I bought it blindly due to an incredible offer (last bottle) and because I adore musks. Like others from the house, it bursts forth before settling. It’s green, damp and juicy at first: moss, cedar, herbal… Then on my skin it ‘calms down’ and smells powdery, sweet and soft, very elegant. It reminds me of ‘From the Garden’ by Margiela (a little), ‘Fig Infusion’ by Essential Parfums (more fig present) and ‘Philosykos’ by Diptyque (the mossy part). I also detect a slight floral touch. It lasts quite a few hours; this house has impressive quality. I consider it a daytime scent for autumn and winter. Subtle, unisex, but on my skin it becomes more feminine because my scent is fruity and floral; everything turns warm and cosy. I’m very happy. A wonderful fragrance. Clean, airy, elegant. Very pretty.

Plump, edible, playful and elegant, but without overdoing it. A bit like a Joanna Ortiz dress, not a fancy little Sezanne outfit à la Birkin. This is more Palermo than Paris, more Bardot in Capri than Huppert strolling through Le Marais. By far, it’s one of my favourites from Matiere along with Crystal Saffron. The first time I smelled it on skin, it suddenly brought back the homemade fruit smoothie my mother used to make me as a child: banana, orange and Maria biscuits. Just as it opens, this is it, however mundane it may sound, and appetising! There I am at the rubber tablecloth waiting for the delicacy, better than any dish from a high-end restaurant. A juicy, fresh banana pulp, passed through a serious sieve. I don’t notice the cedar at all: this is a well-made velvet and creamy fruit salad. I understand but don’t share the comparisons to Phylosikos, but I sense more of the sour and soapy DNA of the lovely Basilico & Fellini by Vilhelm. Dries soft and discreet, like carrot cake. A wonder, truly.

A fine, clean and supremely elegant musk. It opens slightly green, reminding me of rye or perhaps rice husks, but not in a bad way; it’s hard to describe because it has no sweet notes yet feels a slight sweetness and a comforting creaminess. It lasts a long time on the skin; I used it all day, showered and slept, and the next morning I could still smell it right up against my skin. The price justifies the quality 100%. It’s not my style, but if yours is musk, this could be your ally.

The blend of musks and molecules creates a perfect fig scent all over; in small spaces it can be overwhelming. As it dries down, since it doesn’t have much evolution, the intensity drops and it surrounds you with a sensual aroma, just fig. The difference with other Gris cHarnel style perfumes is that here no other note is distinguishable. You have to love this fruit because it’s not a fresh perfume, it’s bold (just like the vanilla from this house, intense and almost animalic). You can tell they work with high-quality raw materials. I use it on specific days because on my skin it doesn’t evolve and it feels heavy and monolithic, as if I were a walking giant fig. I’d recommend it for autumn.

I tried it before on a tester and now I have the 10ml decant I just picked up on offer at Oferta perfumes. What a find! It smells wonderful and lasts for ages on the skin. I’m absolutely delighted with my decant.

If I had to give it a name, it would be Parisian Fig at 100%.

What a treat! It inspires confidence and you can wear it all day. It’s a super pleasant and clean scent, and the best part is that it lasts forever. It’s a pity the price is high and I can’t afford to buy the bottle, because I want it desperately. It’s one of the few ‘clean’ fragrances that actually have good projection.

Luxury fig. Although it’s not listed in the notes, that’s what it smells like. It’s a subtle fig, a bit green, creamy and delicious. At first it’s greener and astringent, but as it dries down it rounds off, becoming milky and white. I sense a light green, intermixed with white due to the cleanliness it emanates. In that sense, despite the differences, I find a relationship with Bal d’Afrique. Both smell of effortless luxury without affectation. Parisian Musc doesn’t fit me with Paris, but with the French Riviera; the fig takes me to the Mediterranean, but the more glamorous kind. I’d wear it for a stroll in Saint-Tropez, Nice or Monaco. This fragrance has sunshine, light and a natural, cheerful refinement. That’s how I feel about it and I love it.