Phileas

5 reseñas

Mostrando las más recientes primero.

• priethcallas

  September 3, 2015

  

  Luckily I picked up 30ml of this discontinued Nina Ricci jewel, almost the only one for men from the house and more intended for women. At first, citrus and aldehydes give a green vibe reminiscent of Herrera for Men. At four hours, pine, caraway, cedar, and vetiver dominate, with a floral and spicy touch. At eleven hours, the pine is still there, mixed with a musky-leather base. It smells very much like Quorum by Puig; they share almost everything and are both woody, not oriental. The trail goes from moderate to heavy and lasts over 12 hours. It is timeless, ideal for cold days and formal use, nothing for summer.

• gelo999

  July 17, 2017

  

  Phileas is an eighties fossil, super macho. It starts with a citrus-aldehydic chaos and juniper berries that smell of uncontrolled wind, but as it calms down, the carnation and cinnamon add warmth and sensuality. Then the pine takes command, dry and strong, with leather, tobacco, and cedar that shout masculinity. The oakmoss anchors it and gives it brutal longevity. It’s a bear: it looks like a week’s beard, rough and closed off, but underneath there is softness and class. Rating: 8.5

• jerry drake

  January 21, 2019

  

  Trying out proposals like this is moving even further away from modern perfumery, where most mass-market aromas seem to be copies of one another. Sometimes I wonder if it would be better to focus on finding vintage and discontinued products and buy only what is strictly necessary from the modern range. Another fantastic scent, mature, adult, ideal for those already accustomed to dealing with such a type of proposal. It smells wonderfully of light wood and warm herbs, aldehydes, resulting in a harmonious and solid eighties classic. Warm herbs under the sun expand, covered in moss and the warm forest floor, blending with a sublime old and fresh leather. Spices are discretely perceptible; moss and leather predominate, harmonising beautifully with pine and flowers. It is one of the true treasures to be discovered among vintage perfumes, shining with its own light, with a satisfying sillage. Phileas offers everything fans of eighties fragrances expect; in short words, vigorous, intense, and good. It smells like a journey to the world’s ends. Sustainable, if you can still find it. So easy to fall in love with something like this.

• Bofifa

  January 26, 2019

  

  One of the best names for a fragrance, conveying so many things and classic masculinity at the same time. And look at that advert! The typography, the brown colours that haven’t been used in advertising for decades, all geared towards the hygiene of the man, without any nonsense about success and seduction. What’s inside, of course, can only be a jewel. Phileas is an eighties proposal, a baroque fern loaded with green notes, with pine and juniper taking centre stage, but also with a good soapy touch, leather, tobacco, and oakmoss—the essential notes, the decade’s key twist, the symphony played deliciously by the powerhouse gods, surrounded by synthesizers and bouffant hairdos. It’s not as overwhelming as others of the style—I’m thinking of One Man Show or Quorum—Phileas is kinder, with a fresher tone, closer to fragrances like Boss Number One or Smalto pour Homme, ferns that don’t discard the energetic and casual tone, as well as certain floral nuances; here I’d also include Tenere by Paco Rabanne or Sybaris by Puig. But yes, very earthy and woody. Projection is very good, longevity excellent; for a fragrance that should never have disappeared just for its concept, although nowadays it has little place in a society that is increasingly homogenised and androgynous. Another gem I owe to Jerry Drake.

• DonCastóreo

  March 1, 2024

  

  Phileas belongs to that seventies school of fragrance where pine and conifers reigned supreme. It can be compared to classics like Yatagan, Z-14, or Punjab, as well as later works such as Vendetta Uomo. While all are essential for any vintage collector, Phileas is the most different for one detail I’ll reveal later. Upon application, the first thing you notice is an incredible explosion of aldehydes and lemon, followed immediately by pine and cypress. Although the pyramid lists juniper, I detect cypress (the resemblance to Z-14 is striking). That pine is slightly sweetened by the carnation, the quintessential masculine flower of the era. The base closes classically with leather and oakmoss. What is masterful is the persistence of the aldehydes, which elevate the coniferous accord to something sublime. If Yatagan is a pine forest at dusk, Phileas is a pine forest on a luminous morning where crystal-clear streams run over a mossy background. In Phileas, we smell the trees and also feel a woody dampness. The pungency of the aldehydes, citrus, and conifers is cut by a sensation of freshly polished wood. We could think of it as a smell of shaving foam with carnation and oakmoss, so very typical of the time. Far in the distance, there is a smoky touch, but it never obscures the brilliant green and aldehydic radiance that shines superbly for almost the entire life of the perfume. An absolute masterpiece and one of the best in its genre.