Derby (Vintage) by Guerlain

In my perfumery world, we’ve been lucky to grow up with legendary scents that are now myths. Once, any designer launch was pure gold if your wallet allowed it. For me, perfumes are pure magic; they keep my dreams alive and transport me to distant places, preventing my emotions from freezing. They allow me to discover new facets every day. Lately, I’ve returned to the vintage world without wanting to drown in the ocean of new fragrances sprouting like mushrooms. I don’t care if the emotion doesn’t arrive, because many current ones have no art whatsoever. I prefer to invest my time and money in unique pieces I’ve dreamed of for years. Owning the vintage Derby after more than 30 years is incredible; few male fragrances achieve this. It’s an imposing scent that made me feel grown-up before my time. An impressive classic that blends Paris and the East with a modern touch. Every spray is liquid gold, with a cinematic floral heart comparable to the old Gucci but superior. The current version is good, but the original is denser, evolves slowly, and maintains elegance from start to finish. It opens with bergamot, oakmoss, and lemon; it’s slightly foamy and powdery. Then it gains spice but remains fresh until it becomes a symphony of flowers and leather. For the bold young ones, the modern version; for the nostalgics who love the old school, this is the definitive one.

Fragantica’s note list is incorrect, so here is the real one: top with bergamot and orange; heart of spices, tobacco and clove; base of Indian wood, patchouli, birch, oakmoss and leather. It is a chypre with a deep, old-school leather that is unmatched. The bergamot and spice blend smells very eighties, then the clove adds a spicy, elegant floral, while the dry woody and mossy base makes it sombre, mature and serious. It is barbaric and civilised all at once. Its magic lies in that warm, masculine and classic sensuality that only Guerlain can achieve. With this perfume I went from hating it to viewing it as a masterpiece; it is the most intriguing fragrance I have ever encountered. Rating: 8.