(untitled)

6 reseñas

Mostrando las más recientes primero.

• Demopop

  April 24, 2017

  

  Green and luminous, it starts with an explosion of galbanum and bitter orange. That bitter note is maintained throughout the development. It is refreshing, but not fresh in the usual sense. The green and smoky notes afterwards can tire some; a friend couldn’t stand it on her skin when the heart notes settled, and knowing that I love it, she gifted it to me. I notice the cedar and musk a lot in the heart and base. It’s curious that it has reminded me several times of Prada’s Infusion d’Homme, because apart from the cedar at the beginning they don’t share notes… but here I recognise talc/iris accords that bring it to my memory. I love Untitled.

• Demopop

  May 1, 2017

  

  Totally green and luminous, starting with an explosion of galbanum and bitter orange. That slightly bitter note doesn’t disappear throughout the development. If it is true that it is refreshing, certainly it is not ‘fresh’ in the usual sense. The subsequent green and smoky notes can tire some palates: a friend couldn’t stand it on her skin once the heart notes settled, and knowing that I love it, she gifted it to me. I notice the cedar and musk a lot in the heart and base. It’s curious that it has reminded me several times of Prada’s Infusion d’Homme, since apart from the cedar at the beginning, they don’t share more notes… but here I recognise talc/iris accords that bring it to my memory. I love Untitled.

• Espartaco

  March 13, 2020

  

  When Untitled, Martin Margiela’s first fragrance, was released, the brand was already owned by the Italian group Diesel. Martin Margiela is, or was, because he is now bald, an elusive and avant-garde creator from the Antwerp school. There are almost no photos of him, he rarely gives interviews, and I doubt he ever intended to release a perfume bearing his name. But as was natural, once a giant buys your brand, the first move is to monetise, and the best way to make money is to launch a perfume, not a deconstructed blouse costing a thousand euros that only a few people would buy and from which you wouldn’t make a profit. Untitled is a chewed-up, mass-market version of the Margiela style: white labels, the typical Dadaist play in the name, a bottle distinct from the bows, paraphernalia, and pink moves that were everywhere in 2010… In this unisex EDP, Daniela Roche revisits the idea of an intimate water, with that composition of refreshing vegetal sweetness she already developed in Infusion d’Iris de Prada, which in truth I think is one of the softest and most beautiful perfumes of recent years because it keeps that perfectly measured thing between something old and something modern, timeless. Of Infusion d’Iris and Infusion d’Homme, at the time what I liked most was that they smelled like something that cost money, something that turned out to be an illusion seeing everything Puig has manufactured for Prada in recent years, absolute manure. Infusion d’Iris had the texture of something you don’t find in a neighbourhood chemist, as if it were a very refined body care product. This Untitled follows the same line as Roche’s creations for Prada, and after having tried it (thanks, D!) I am between whether I like it, dislike it, or if it doesn’t matter to me. Indifferent it has not left me, though. The first idea has memories of sweet herbs and bath soaps, a thing that usually pleases me, but here I come across a major ‘but’… it projects an insidious woolly accord, as if it were strands of angora or mohair, some kind of hint of boiled mercromine or dirty hay that I find very unpleasant, in addition you don’t expect it at all when seeing the pretty green of the bottle. It’s not galbanum, much more vegetal and raw, I am sure that that lingering note that doesn’t disappear even at the end comes from the incense, a note that works very well when it fuses with woods or cold flowers, but which for my taste brings out some horrible smoky and reddened sweetness accords when mixed with vanilla, amber, oriental notes, or here itself, surely the orange. I doubt very much that the galbanum oil, more vegetal and oily, is to blame for that horrible sub-tone. Could it be the boxwood? I don’t have it isolated in my head, but it seems to me to be a more bushy and herbaceous note like myrtle or ivy. By the way, galbanum is very high on the notes sheet, and I don’t detect it at all, and look how strange that is because it is a note of a rawness I cannot stand. When that strange moment of hairy and sticky sweetness stops having protagonism, the blend, which maintains without stopping in the evolution a taste of soapy foaming herbs, takes on a very strange sweet-salty body, the same taste of human skin, that one that is neither clean nor dirty. A super erotic and pleasant aroma, comfortable. The dry-down is very pretty, the typical baby soap scent prevails with something that reminds you of bitter and green petit grain, some herb, some sweet little flower, a very pleasant thing and in the line of this type of green waters that arose in the mid-2000s with the creations of Roche for Prada and the Ikar water from Sisley, gentle and clean waters with hints of flowers, bushes, laundry, tisanes, and baths mixed with a certain urban idea, because in truth they have nothing to do with the Eau de Rochas, Eau de Campagne, nº 19, and Cristalle of other times, much more natural, oily, and wild. The only difference I spot in Untitled with the other contemporaries I cite is that accord of a hairy and oxidised sweetness that I didn’t like at all. Otherwise, it seemed to me a false EDP, because it behaves like an EDT. Interesting. It won’t change the rules of perfumery nor gain what it has, simply it smells good and has refinement. I didn’t enjoy it fully because of that dirty reddened tone, but that already goes to tastes. PS: It sounds to me that it is already discontinued.

• Espartaco

  April 6, 2020

  

  When Untitled, Martin Margiela’s first fragrance, was released, the brand was already owned by the Italian group Diesel. Margiela, who is now bald, was an elusive and avant-garde creator from Antwerp. There are almost no photos of him, he rarely gives interviews, and I doubt he ever intended to release a perfume bearing his name. But as is natural, once a giant buys your brand, the first move is to monetise, and the best way to make money is to launch a perfume, not a deconstructed blouse costing a thousand euros that only a few people would buy. Untitled is a chewed-up, mass-market version of the Margiela style: white labels, the typical Dadaist play in the name, a bottle distinct from the bows, paraphernalia, and pink moves that were everywhere in 2010… In this unisex EDP, Daniela Roche revisits the idea of an intimate water, with that composition of refreshing vegetal sweetness she already used in Prada’s Infusion d’Iris, one of the softest and most beautiful perfumes of recent years, something timeless between old and new. Of the Infusions by Prada, what I liked most was that they smelled like something expensive, which turned out to be an illusion seeing everything Puig has produced for Prada in recent years, absolute rubbish. Infusion d’Iris had the texture of a refined body care product, not something you’d find in a high street chemist. This Untitled follows the same line as Roche’s creations for Prada. After trying it, I’m undecided: I don’t know if I like it, dislike it, or if it doesn’t matter to me, but it has left me indifferent. The first impression is of sweet herbs and bath soaps, something I usually enjoy, but here there is a major ‘but’… it projects an insidious woolly accord, like strands of angora or mohair, a hint of boiled mercromine or dirty hay that I find very unpleasant, and you certainly don’t expect it when seeing the pretty green bottle. It’s not galbanum; it’s much more vegetal and raw. I’m sure that lingering note that persists until the end comes from the incense, a note that works very well when blended with woods or cold flowers, but which, in my opinion, produces horrible smoky and reddened sweetness accords when mixed with vanilla, amber, oriental notes, or here, surely, the orange. I doubt the galbanum oil, which is more vegetal and oily, is to blame for that horrible sub-tone. Could it be the boxwood? I can’t isolate it in my mind, but it seems to me to be a more bushy and herbaceous note, like myrtle or ivy. By the way, galbanum is listed very high on the notes, and I don’t detect it at all, which is strange because it is a note of a rawness I cannot stand. When that strange moment of hairy and sticky sweetness loses its protagonism, the blend, which maintains a soapy herbaceous taste throughout the evolution, takes on a very strange sweet-salty body, the same taste of human skin, neither clean nor dirty. A super erotic and pleasant aroma, comfortable. The dry-down is very pretty; the typical baby soap scent prevails with a touch of bitter and green petit grain, some herb, some sweet little flower, something very pleasant and in the line of those green waters that emerged in the mid-2000s with Roche’s creations for Prada and Sisley’s Ikar water: gentle and clean waters with hints of flowers, bushes, laundry, tisanes, and baths, mixed with a certain urban idea, because in truth they have nothing to do with the old Eau de Rochas, Eau de Campagne, nº 19, and Cristalle from other eras, which were much more natural, oily, and wild. The only difference I spot in Untitled compared to the other contemporaries I mention is that accord of a hairy and oxidised sweetness that I didn’t like at all. Otherwise, it seemed to me a false EDP, as it behaves like an EDT. Interesting. It won’t change the rules of perfumery or gain much ground; it simply smells good and has refinement. I didn’t enjoy it fully because of that dirty reddened tone, but that’s a matter of taste. PS: I heard it might already be discontinued.

• Edu Lezana

  November 5, 2021

  

  Green and woody. Totally unisex, yes, it brings memories of Prada’s Infusion d’Iris (I agree with Spartaco), with the latter being more powdery. Untitled is sweeter. On my skin, the woods stand out, perfectly blended with the green of the galbanum sap and boxwood. A subtle and charming green. It is a perfect scent for the day with pastel and soft clothing. It’s not classic. Young people can wear it without problems to work or to the studies. The scent is gentle and very luminous. A daytime perfume, although expensive. Performance is always good with a soft trail. I liked it. Especially for wearing it to work in style: trousers, polo, or shirt. It is pleasant to wear. Minimalist, luminous, and kind.

• Edu Lezana

  November 7, 2021

  

  A green and woody scent, totally unisex. It reminds me of Prada’s Infusion d’Iris (as Spartaco mentioned), though the latter is more powdery; Untitled is sweeter. On my skin, the woods stand out, perfectly blended with the green notes of galbanum and boxwood. A subtle and charming green. Ideal for daytime wear with pastel clothing. It’s not classic, so young people can easily wear it to work or school without issue. The scent is gentle and very luminous. A daytime fragrance, though pricey, with good longevity and a soft trail. I liked it, especially for going to work in style: trousers, polo, or shirt. Pleasant to wear, minimalist, luminous, and kind.