Jules (2016) by Dior

A hard, raw, unfiltered fragrance. Upon spraying, it smells of a conifer forest in autumn: mist, wet earth, moss with dewdrops, and decaying leaves. At first, it’s a disagreeable mix, but after half an hour it settles and that sense of decay fades. It is green, yes, but dark, very dark. Over time, synthetic oakmoss appears (IFRA limits it to 0.1%, almost as if it weren’t there), adding more greenery and depth. On days between 12 and 18 degrees, it lasts about eight hours: an hour and a half strong, then on the skin. Ideal for misty days or lightless winters. Suitable for anyone, depending on the enthusiast, though it recalls Robert Piguet’s Bandit. Not for beginners; it needs several tries to understand. Hard, raw, and difficult, but it’s mine.

What a find this Dior is. It’s caught my attention as the crown jewel of the fougère genre. I’d previously asked Jerry Drake for a substitute for the discontinued Van Cleef Arpels Homme. While there are many fougère options out there, Jerry said this is a scent on another level: leather-like, with that distinctive starch note, powerful, elegant, and incredibly clean. Scented items like Kouros or Antaeus are rich but feel dirty and animalistic. With Jules, despite its herbal and pine notes, it gives me that sense of cleanliness I adore. Jules has a place in my collection as my favourite; if Van Cleef Arpels Homme ever returns, they’ll be my perfect pair. Scent 9.5, Longevity 8, Sillage 7, Price 8

I like it. A green opening of galbanum that evolves into a floral, slightly spicy middle phase due to black pepper, reinforced by exquisite leather and hints of cedar. It has a vintage air, is very masculine, and quite versatile. Good performance. Courtesy of Josesan. Suitable for spring, autumn, and winter, day and night. Long-lasting longevity and heavy sillage.

I was gifted this perfume and didn’t know the original, so I can’t compare. It is very masculine and classic, in the best sense. The opening is powerful: Persian violet and intense herbal notes of fir, resembling a classic green cologne. Then it mellows in favour of natural leather, and I detect jasmine. The base is soapy, masculine, warm, and pleasant. It recalls classics from the 80s, basically its predecessor, but stands out for its naturalness and balance. Bravo to Dior for reissuing a classic worthily. Very good longevity and moderate to heavy projection if overapplied. I encourage Gucci to do the same and put an end to the endless search of Envy or Gucci Nobile fans for the few remaining bottles.