Orphéon Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

Diptyque has nailed it with its turn towards minimalist niche. In a world of beige aesthetics and austere lines, Orphéon is the ultimate expression: clean, simple, and unisex, yet with true luxury quality. The soapy opening can be overwhelming, but if you enjoy that profile, luminous flowers emerge within minutes to define it. It goes from your wedding to the gym. Designing it seems easy, but it isn’t. A 10 for the house.

At first, the opening is a bit sharp and very soapy, but within seconds, the jasmine and tonka bean soften everything. It smells clean, yes, like the classic Moussel. It’s good, but I only recommend it if you’re looking for simple, powdery perfumes that smell freshly washed.

Orphéon was born as a classic. It’s the best of the house for overall quality, not complexity. A juniper and powdery jasmine accord over musk and cedar creates a delicious fantasy with fruity, aromatic, and ambergris highlights, finished with precision. It’s perfect for everything: a rich aroma, a trail several metres wide without being intrusive. It lasts 10-12 hours without being heavy, ideal for summer as it’s refreshing. Elegant yet casual, with the charm of not wanting to go unnoticed. The first time you like it, the second time you ask for a third, and when you’re halfway through, you understand you need to stock up. Obligatory, yes or no.

A beautiful fragrance inspired by the meetings of the three creators of Diptyque in a cosmopolitan Parisian night club, the famous Orpheon bar, now closed. It is supposed to evoke the elegant satin drapes, the dry wood of the furniture, the delicate perfumes of the diners, the breath of alcohol and cigarettes… from all this visual experience, you get no idea when smelling Orphéon. For me, it is the perfect representation of a neat and noble person, radiant cleanliness, soft white drapes, and white velvet armchairs. An immaculate pale bar of soap, crystal-clear Roman baths, vaporous waters, and polished greyish marbles, plus a powdery sensation of body talcum and a faint vanilla tonka sweetness in the base. Cedar helps with the dry perception of the talcum, and juniper berries add bitterness to the opening, but far from the usual herbal/acidic notes. Orphéon is cleanliness, evoking comfort and serenity, with much charm. Its performance on skin is good, although the projection is moderate, which is appreciated for its refinement. Another great fragrance from Diptyque.

Orphéon is a bar of soap made into perfume. The first time, it tickled my nose due to how powdery it was; I perceived a thousand things. Now it smells linear but rich, like a Dove Roll-On deodorant. I love it, although I consider it too simple; sometimes it seems you’re not wearing perfume but deodorant, yet there are moments when it’s perfect. When you want to project a neat, simple, and impartial image, as in an interview or the office, few things match it. Beware of the sprays: although it doesn’t seem so, it projects quite a bit and lasts hours.

Another pretty and simple creation from Diptyque, which rarely fails. I’m more interested in it than the acclaimed Eau des Sens. This is more barber-like, with that semi-salinity of vintage shaving foam and body gel. It’s a fine exercise in winter nostalgia that brings back childhood memories of masculine talc. Impressions of shaving brushes, balms, and lotions come and go. It’s suitable for simply smelling good without fussing or annoying, very for day, and fits any season due to its melancholic neutrality.

Is Amouage Reflection Man getting too expensive for you? Switch to this instead. Identical quality, a different (and equally beautiful) scent, and much cheaper. It reminds me of Ormonde Man, another gem, but Orphéon is cleaner and more elegant, which is saying something.

A woody, powdery fragrance based on jasmine. I bought it recently, though I already knew it from samples, so it’s going to sleep on the shelf for a few months waiting for its moment. Extreme heat devours it literally in minutes, so it’s not suitable for summer or winter; it’s for temperate periods. It’s elegant and gentle, with a clean, tidy scent. No one will be surprised, as jasmine lives in its heart, one of the cleanest flowers, alongside powdery notes and juniper berries that give it a charming personality. Despite being a niche scent, it’s hard not to like it. Regarding performance, one must wait: in summer it has none, but spring samples performed well, lasting hours on the wrist. Its greatest drawback is projection, not longevity. It is undeniably unisex and suitable for work. Very versatile. Anecdote: for me, it doesn’t smell of a bar or club, neither now nor in its original era. If that was the idea, they have created something very different, which might scare you if you only read the description. Now it sleeps for a few months, and when the time comes, we shall speak.

I was desperate to try it, looking for a prominent, spiced, woody jasmine, without mixing it with tobacco. I thought this came close to what I was seeking. Update: 27th March, I couldn’t resist and bought it on the spot. I was between Olende, Douson EDP, and this one, though I plan to buy Douson as well. It’s spectacular. I expected something different given the Fragrantica comments about a smoky, bar-like smell, but although it is smoky, it smells much cleaner, with a strong jasmine heart. A 10.