Nº 11 by ROSETO 1927

The Vamos Extraña is strange, bringing me reminiscences of Poker Face by Ted Lapidus. It has a very marked iris that gives it a clean, soapy, talcum hint. That resemblance to PF leads me to La Nuit de l’Homme, obviously keeping only the sweet part without the citrus or fresh notes that cardamom or bergamot provide. On drying down, it becomes much heavier than fresh, yet without great projection; perhaps a floral note midway to lavender emerges. I couldn’t say, at least based on my nose, that it is an oud. It is not something that drives me mad; I feel it rather strange, as I said at the beginning, but I can’t say I don’t like it because within that strangeness there is something that catches my attention.

Fragrantica doesn’t list the name behind the number, but on the house’s website it reads ‘Sbagliato’, which means ‘mistaken’ in Spanish. Furthermore, the pyramid is different: according to the company, Nº 11 has no oud, and the opening is leather. Years ago, I bought a bottle of Cuero Roseto at a neighbourhood perfumery clearing stock; the owner had passed away, and the daughter ran it because she wanted to rent out the shop. For some reason I don’t know, her father hadn’t restocked in years, so the place felt more like a museum than a store. Now, one or two months ago, I learned that the house is still operating thanks to its Instagram account. I checked their website and paid attention to Sbagliato / Nº 11 for the top and base notes: leather and tobacco. I was reminded of the one I bought years ago, a leather fragrance in the line of Cabochard, Aramis, Bandit, or Knize 10, but softened by floral background notes. I had hoped the tobacco leaves would give it a sharp accent. The first impression was that the chemist behind the current formula either reproduced the original (and my bottle was expired) or used it as a base for its present version. What followed was surprising: it opened with aldehydic and gourmand notes; I didn’t clearly identify the leather as in the others mentioned, which confused me because the context was more floral. The evolution was complex; there, the leather did play a relevant role, but always within talcum notes. The blend feels soft, perhaps too so, delicate for its discretion. It isn’t a bomb, so those seeking projection and longevity will be disappointed; however, the complexity compensates. I don’t have technical knowledge to claim its quality is extraordinary, but to the nose it feels distinguished by its composition and complexity. Who would wear it? I think it could be the ‘signature scent’ of a woman under 40, with a classic taste without falling into dated trends. One must avoid buying blindly because it is very different from what I’ve heard until now; if you want to satisfy your curiosity, the company offers samples of all its fragrances. In terms of price, they are accessible: around 60 USD with the official exchange rate, about 40 USD with the parallel market, for 100 cm³ bottles.