Kashmir by Milton Lloyd

The Spanish version of Fragrántica has very few entries on this perfume, so I’m adding my opinion in case it helps. Milton Lloyd is a brand with ridiculously low prices and world-class quality; I found it on Amazon. They say it used to be sold in Gibraltar, but I’ve never set foot on that rock. Looking for inspirations, I checked the prices (around £7-8 for 55ml) and the reviews, and curiosity got the better of me to order several bottles; if it turned out badly, I wouldn’t lose much. Of the three, Khasmir surprised me by taking me back to childhood. Every time I wear it, it smells like something I know. The brand says it’s inspired by the now-discontinued Lancôme Sikkim, so, being out of production, Khasmir is a truly ‘original’ fragrance. It’s a vintage classic from the 60s, 70s, and 80s. The box screams CHYPRE in capital letters. It is sober, elegant, and classic, demanding an outfit to match. Don’t wear it with jeans and a hoodie; it will overwhelm you. But dressed up properly, it wraps you in elegance. Although it is feminine, current sweet tastes make it unisex. It starts green, then becomes mossy, aromatic, soapy, clean, and earthy. That initial phase takes me back to childhood; it smells like my father freshly shaved and out of the shower, a mix of Myrurgia or Gal soaps with Loewe Essence (before it was reformulated). As it dries, it recalls many chypres, oscillating between Eau du Soir and Aromatics Elixir, and has decent longevity. One single spray lasts until the next day. It’s not for everyone, test it first. It is classic, vintage, and has personality. If you like Eau du Soir, Aromatics Elixir, Diorissimo, or Ted Lapidus Rumba, you will love it because it sits in the same valley. It’s worth it.

Supposedly Kashmir is an imitation of the discontinued Lancôme Sikkim. Unfortunately, I have had, nor will I have, the pleasure of smelling it, but seeing the three reviews on Fragrántica, I am sure Sikkim was glorious. I don’t know if Kashmir reaches that level of glory, but on its own rights, it is a proper chypre. No alcoholic bursts or harshness: it blends with the skin. It starts aldehydic, very fruity and green, leading a crinkled bergamot. The floral part is white and ethereal, with rose present. In the base, I note patchouli, sandalwood, perhaps cedar, and a subtle leather with smoky touches. Although it is a fruity chypre, what stands out is a tandem of moss and talc that creates a sublime mix of a misty, damp forest with fine talc. Finding similarities with Sikkim is impossible without reference. It is a sober chypre of the old school with unisex tints. It has something of Aromatics Elixir, Miss Dior 1947, Eau de Courrèges, Cabochard, Eau de Lancaster, and Eau du Soir. Perhaps it resembles the latter most, but like the hunchback character from ‘The Name of the Rose’ who spoke all languages and none, it recalls many classic chypres and none in particular, which is no drawback. UTC perfumes have great longevity and sillage; Kashmir lasts all day on skin and on the nape of the neck until well into the next day, on clothes I won’t even tell you. It is sturdy yet fresh, rugged yet gentle, elegant and informal. It is a delight, but beware, it does not suit current tastes. It smells of flared skirts, bell-bottom trousers, peacock-leg coats, and bouffant hair, the entire aesthetic catalogue of the 50s, 60s, 70s, and up to the mid-80s. If you like these perfumes, I’ll just say one thing: go for it.