Vetyver by Roger & Gallet

No one knows why, in 1998, my grandmother gave this to my mother, who hated it; I saved it from the vanity because, although it was a hyper-spiced chaos according to my pink magazines of the time, it didn’t smell bad in the bottle. Turns out it’s a men’s fragrance and my grandmother made a mistake by giving it to my mother instead of my father, who adored it compared to the abominations from Van Cleef that made everyone gag. These are just tastes, but what a ridiculous family history.

I bought this blind for two euros in an old bottle, and I absolutely love it. While other perfumes from the 90s seem to have aged poorly, this one is a precise and cheerful piece of art. It smells like a fresh version of that Massimo Dutti eau de cologne, but calmer with tender citrus notes. It’s a gentle, relaxed and masculine fragrance that evokes summers of 1992, siestas and that adult cologne scent you used to wear secretly. PS: The trail is poor, as one would expect.

This cologne won’t satisfy vetiver purists, as the note is rather timid here, yet it possesses a mischievous, youthful charm that is utterly enchanting. It’s cheerful, fun, and a saturated turquoise green, far removed from classic formality. Although the opening is more herbaceous than citrus, it’s delicious and timeless. To me, a pre-teen, it smelled of mint, tarragon, and vanilla. It smells like a teenage boy and has poor longevity, but if over-applied, it’s perfect for a quick beer at home. Unfortunately, it’s discontinued; 10/10.

A citrus opening that is refreshing and invigorating, like a juice of lemon, bergamot, and orange with freshly grated rosemary and nutmeg. Soon, a green, aromatic vetiver appears, followed by clove and a soft moss with a sweet touch of tonka and benzoin. It has good longevity (over four hours) and a discreet projection, ideal for feeling fresh without being overwhelming. I’m reviewing a bottle from the late 90s; I don’t know how the current version compares. PS: The label states there is nutmeg and benzoin, even though they don’t appear on the official note list.

At first, the citrus notes are slightly soapy with an herbal base of rosemary and lavender. In the heart, I perceive fir, vetiver (which curiously isn’t on the list), soft tonka, and cedar. The drydown is abrupt with tonka and musk. It’s a very soft, natural chypre, akin to L’Occitane, but with poor longevity and projection. The vetiver is green and discreet; it lasted about 6 hours, perhaps 8 with effort, but the trail is weak. More suited for spring and daytime wear.