Acteur by Azzaro

In my opinion, Azzaro’s Acteur attempted to modernise late-80s perfumery. While its father, the legendary 1978 Azzaro Pour Homme, was a fougère aromatic heavy on leather, woods, and oakmoss that suited an older gentleman perfectly, this version lacks that era’s aggression. Acteur opens with a citrus sparkle and a spicy touch of warm spices, nothing as overpowering as the powdered cinnamon of the 70s. As it dries, it smells like a bouquet of red roses and carnations with hints of liqueur or honey, thanks to modern aldehydes that are sweet and fruity rather than soapy like the classics. The base woods are present but softened by musk and amber. It is not a raw powerhouse like the ones of the past, but a man of character, discreet and elegant.

A scent that envelops me in rose throughout its evolution, with nuances of oakmoss that remind me of Aramis, pleasant fruity, fresh, and leather accords that come through during its development. On my skin, its longevity is prolonged with moderate sillage; a wonderful perfume. Best wishes.

Besides his evening gowns, Loris Azzaro dressed actresses like Sophia Loren or Isabelle Adjani in lumberjack suits. Perhaps that inspired naming his second fragrance ‘Acteur’. The floral accords do not remind me much of the Van Cleef Pour Homme I own; it is another planet in terms of density. It starts fresh, citrusy, and spicy, then turns into a fruit cocktail. Sometimes it smells of rose, but it is the cherry and berry notes that take the lead with a delicate and complex sweetness. On the skin, it is a chameleon that fits any role. Its presence is discreet but pleasant. Perhaps it will not win an Oscar, but it deserves applause without spending a fortune.

I also believe that Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme is a level above this Azzaro Acteur, and perhaps that explains why this one is no longer sold. They are two distinct perfumes that only touch on that mix of rose and leather. In Acteur, the rose is the leitmotif, but on a dark plane; its heart flies through luminous and perceptible florals, though never sweet, while the pure, dark leather dominates the base. It was a well-executed perfume, but it does not replace Van Cleef, where the olfactory game is more orthodox: patent green opening, black leather in the heart, then the rose, and finally a delicious, sophisticated, and sensual fusion. Both are enjoyable, but Van Cleef is the one most valued over time.

Powerful floral opening, and watch out, they do not mention lavender, though it sounded to me like galbanum alongside bergamot and fruits. It reminded me of the style of V&A’s Pour Homme, but with intense florals and a bit overwhelming, as if it were a cross between this and Givenchy’s Xeryus (which are not so far apart in notes or time). After four hours, the sensation is powdery and floral, with the rose in the lead and patchouli enhancing that impression. The finish is classic for the era: leather, musk, oakmoss, and soft cedar, with floral traces. In short, it is a cross between V&A’s Pour Homme and Givenchy’s Xeryus (not the Rouge). The trail is moderate, though it weighs if applied heavily, and lasts more than 12 hours, although close to the skin only the last notes remain. For medium seasons, better for the florals. The style leans more towards the florals of the late 80s and early 90s, which predominate here. I prefer V&A’s PH because its rose and leather are more united; in this Acteur, the florals dominate. If you like the style of the old Xeryus, this might be a good option if you can find it.

A very good men’s fragrance; it deserves everything said in the other reviews. It’s a rich leather beautifully blended with the other notes. Recommended.

Magnificent and personal perfume, a true achievement. Its woods and spices blend perfectly with the rose, obtaining the most surprising contrast. In the heart, it achieves a floral masculinity that is highlighted in the air, very perceptible, confident, and sensual. The base is a pure, attractive, and convincing leather. It is a pity it is no longer sold in Spain. At least I cannot find any bottle of this Azzaro Acteur…

Discontinued since 2010. It’s a dense, personal, and masculine fragrance, very appealing, rich in woods with spices and well-blended mid-floral notes. It was a great perfume, full of personality and charm.