Men
Parfum de Peau
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Descripción
Montana's Parfum de Peau is a leather fragrance for women. Launched in 1986, the nose behind this composition is Edouard Fléchier. The top notes include calendula, pepper, blackcurrant, blackberry, ginger, and orange blossom; the heart notes are formed by patchouli, rose, narcissus, and jasmine; while the base notes reveal leather, incense, amber, and musk.
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1980s and it was characterised by creating clothes with architectural patterns or aggressive shapes similar to Thierry Mugler based on leather and vivid colours. In the opening the notes are quite floral with a sweet, fruity touch and traditional flowers like rose and jasmine plus a tuberose in the base that gives body and similarity to Rumba by Balenciaga. In the heart notes it loses the fruity tone (perhaps a neutral fruit like peach or apricot) in favour of a soapy floral sensation of roses. The jasmine is gone and the scent concentrates on a dense traditional rose with tuberose. When the flowers saturate they disappear and sweet dark fruits (less aromatic blackcurrants than blackberry or plum) and spiced wood notes are felt. When resting and smelling coffee to undo the saturation it returns to soapy tones of rose with tuberose. In the dry down the fruit returns above the flowers in a dusty blackcurrant tone and disappearance of the tuberose. It presents chypre characteristics when wood and spiced notes are felt at the end (soft cedar with a tendency to leather and earth). It follows the 80s intense floral chypre style like Animale and Rumba. It has sophistication with the advantage that the sweet fruity note does not make it exclusive to night and winter, giving freshness for summer and day-to-day wear. It has an attitude and personality for the office without being annoying but noticeable. At night it has presence but classic: not striking or avant-garde for galas but integrated into the night, thought for happy hours and meetings. It has a romantic note although nostalgic… like a floral that projects the image of a confident woman.
I bought it recently on a whim because I saw it on offer. In the bottle, it is rich and present, but once worn, it is unbearable. It has a personality that, in a slip-up, eats yours. It feels like mosquito repellent. I regretted it. Luckily, I paid a cheap price.
I bought it recently just because I saw it on offer. In the bottle it is rich and present but once worn it is unbearable. It has a personality that in a slip-up eats yours. It feels like mosquito repellent. I regretted it. Luckily I paid it cheap.
This is not a perfume for this era. I loved it in the 80s. I loved it with passion. But today tastes are different, people’s sensitivity is different, the climate is different… In short: I think one changes according to circumstances and the life one is given to live. Also in the realm of aromas. Some that once drove you mad, you cannot bear today, and they cause you headaches and even nausea. I do not doubt it is a good aroma, but not one to wear, unless you intend to scare people off!
It is not a perfume for this era. I loved it in the 80s and I loved it with passion. But today tastes are different, sensitivity is different and the climate is too. One changes according to circumstances and the life one lived also in scents. Some that once drove you mad today cause headache and nausea. I do not doubt it is a good scent but not to wear it unless you intend to scare people off!
Hello Ana Verónica, could you tell me where you got it and where are you from? It is my sister’s favourite perfume and I would like to buy it for her.
I met two women who used it and I never forget them. I do not remember their names or faces but the scent remained imprinted on me until today. Strong, heavy, baroque and artificial… I smell patchouli, pepper, some amber and lots of incense. I did not register the neroli, the rose or the leather. I think it has the style of Paloma Picasso: it is 80s, psychedelic, strident and anachronistic. It does not seem feminine or elegant to me. I have the idea that whoever buys it thinks they will spend money… so let them feel it. There are fragrances that transcend time and others like this one that are born from the conjuncture and stay there.
I met two women who used it. I never forget them. I do not remember their names or faces, but the scent remained imprinted on me until today. Strong, heavy, baroque, artificial… I smell patchouli and pepper with some amber and lots of incense. I did not register the orange blossom, nor the rose, nor the leather. I think it has the style of Paloma Picasso: it is eighties, psychedelic, strident, anachronistic… It does not seem feminine or elegant to me. I have the idea that whoever buys it thinks ‘I will spend money… so let them feel it!’ There are fragrances that transcend time (the classics) and others (like this one) that are born of the moment and stay there.
Sensual, angular, baroque and assertive, this fragrance draws the main lines of 80s perfume: a child of its time but charismatic, invasive and pleasant like mirrors facing each other in a sea of contradictions. The woman who would wear it today would be cultured, a reader of 19th-century penny dreadfuls, a writer of hidden verses, a consumer of classic cinema, refined, very feminine, a smoker and a passionate lover of red wine. Could a man wear it? Yes, a geek like me who wears it from time to time because it is hardly enjoyable in day-to-day life. The opening is openly feminine with white flowers and berries but there are so many overlapping notes with special prominence of sweet leather, very dirty musk and a swampy, earthy patchouli like a delta blues at a formal party. The cloud is dense, almost toxic, it cuts with a knife and is unbearable if you are not used to it; if you are a lover of the style you won’t believe it, the projection is radioactive and the longevity is eternal. There are two ways to see it: as a caricature of American Psycho or as the melodic accent of a beautiful decade. Note: 10/10
What a lovely review by Bofifa. Another soul who has already been scented with Parfum de Peau in both past and present. I remember being very young, using it secretly, without anyone knowing how much I adored a women’s fragrance… In my innocence (I was about ten or eleven, the same age I used to steal sprays of La Nuit de Rabanne from a friend’s mother), I simply knew I enjoyed it wildly, intoxicated and unable to stop thinking ‘bloody hell, this is a man’s perfume’… Later I understood that fragrances like Parfum de Peau, Aromatics Elixir, La Nuit de Rabanne, and Cabochard (another leather scent) possess no gender at all. They are formulas of a narcotic, atavistic gravity, animal and seared.
What a beautiful review Bofifa. Another one who got scented with Parfum de Peau in the past and present. I remember being very small and using it secretly without anyone knowing how much I loved a women’s fragrance. In my innocence at ten or eleven years old when I stole touches of La Nuit de Rabanne from a friend’s mother, I only knew that I enjoyed it madly, drunk and thinking, hell, this is a men’s perfume. Later I understood that there are perfumes like Parfum de Peau, Aromatics Elixir, La Nuit de Rabanne and Cabochard that have no gender, formulas of an atavistic, animal and scorched narcotic gravity.
Bofifa and Spartacus… but you write so well… (I was about to swear). I love your reviews.
The 80s were an era of perfumery excesses with techno, punk, leather and ripped jeans. Smelly beasts full of power were born so you could smell stronger and look better. Parfum de Peau is one of those 80s beasts, a floral leather with lots of calendula, rose and animalic jasmine. The jasmine has a spiced and smoky counterpoint from a potent incense that accompanies it. Classic, deep, rich and opulent evolution with a colouring superior to the gay flag. It reminds me of Bandit by Piguet or Rumba by Balenciaga but it is less astringent and camphoraceous. I feel nostalgia, longing and sadness that wrap around the scent giving me a pleasant sense of wellbeing. It is démodé and retro but powerful, exquisite and with extraordinary strength. Completely sensational. Rating: 9.3
Intoxicate is pure 80s narcosis. Parfum de Peau has that classic floral-chypre structure of the era but gives it a twist with ginger, pepper and musk that is a brilliantly achieved madness. The ginger is very noticeable in the heart notes with the rose, then comes the leather and that musk which is very strong at first and then calms down. The fruits and amber make it warm and juicy. I know it is leather but the note is so transformed by the rest that it is a very special leather perfume. This review is of an eau de toilette from 10 years ago, I did not try the vintage. It was one of my first encounters with 80s fragrances, I couldn’t stop smelling it, I found it very interesting and narcotic. Of course it is not easy to wear, it is for a rebellious night and you need a leather garment.
Oh, the Montanas, a house I did not know and which is treating me to pleasant and suggestive surprises, thanks to the generosity of my friend Bofifa. So far, I find a very spicy entry of sweet, ripe winter fruits; blackcurrants and plums dance on my nose, playing with ginger and pepper that tickle and amuse me. Soon things turn serious, revealing an exquisite and intriguing red rose, still with spicy hints, joined by a bursting carnation (calendula) and a powdery narcissus, neither sweet nor cloying. They darken it until it becomes garnet and gold, as that pasodoble sang. Incense and patchouli make it smoky, earthy, and mature. It is not an innocent, youthful rose in my hands. This rose is replete with experience, wisdom, and tantric sensuality. A note of warm amber wisely combined with animal notes of a dirty musk and very soft suede gives it a character of trembling, vibrant velvet. A floral suit of armour, softly talc-dusted. Fascinating and lascivious. A woman’s scent that she applies for herself but drives a man mad without even trying. Abstain if you have a virgin, milky skin trying to hide. A rich, dense aroma. Very French, brave, and rebellious; this woman does not hide her sensuality nor waste time on nonsense. Voluptuous and very persistent. For autumn and winter. For starry nights and silk sheets. Unisex due to the darkness of its flowers. A superb classic of great beauty with the power of the 80s. Although it is for every woman, if I could choose the skin for this perfume, it would not be the pale, decorous skin of a young, sweet, innocent girl. It is the skin of a brunette woman, caressed entirely by the sun. There are no white marks on her body. I imagine the sculptural model of the 80s, Grace Jones. Androgynous Studio 54 star, who dabbled as a disco singer and actress, Bond girl, and who, in Conan the Destroyer, thrashed Schwarzenegger as she pleased. In those days she did nude photography (I cannot thank my friends enough for the nagging I gave them, even though they signed up for a bombing). I was fascinated by this woman’s skin. To say I do not like her aggressive poses, I do not find aggression sensual, but she had perfect skin. Brunette with golden reflections, I imagine her in a backless nude, sitting in front of my Olympus OM-10, with a view from her shaved head down to her buttocks. And a drop of this perfume on the nape of her neck, slowly tracing every muscle, every erect pore of her skin, sliding down her spine until it disappears in her coccyx. With the sensuality and elegance of a muscular, toned black panther. Her bottle does not match the aroma within. On one hand, it looks like the helical drawing of DNA. From the front, it forms the figure of a woman with angular shapes, like Jones, and from the side, it looks like a pregnant woman, a contemporary interpretation of those paleolithic Venuses who worshipped fertility. Pure fascination in a bottle…
Oh, the Montanas, a house I didn’t know and that is giving me pleasant surprises thanks to the generosity of Bofifa. For now, I find a very spicy entry of sweet, ripe winter fruits: gooseberries and plums dance on my nose with ginger and pepper that tickle me. Soon things turn serious: an exquisite, intriguing red rose, still with spicy remnants, to which is added a bursting carnation (calendula) and a powdered narcissus, nothing sweet. They darken it until turning it garnet and gold, as that pasodoble said. Incense and patchouli make it smoky, earthy, and mature. It’s not an innocent rose, but one full of experience, wisdom, and tantric sensuality. A note of warm amber combined with animal notes of a dirty musk and soft suede gives it a trembling, vibrant velvet character. A floral softly talcum-dusted. Fascinating and lascivious. A woman’s scent that she perfumes for herself but drives a man mad without intending to. Abstain, virgin skins. A rich and dense aroma. Very French, brave, and rebellious; this woman does not hide her sensuality nor wastes time. Voluptuous and very persistent. For autumn and winter, starry nights and satin sheets. Unisex due to the darkness of its flowers. A superb classic with the power of the 80s. Although it’s for every woman, if I could choose the skin for this perfume, it wouldn’t be the pale skin of a young girl, but that of a tanned woman who lets herself be caressed by the sun. No white-label brands. I imagine Grace Jones, sculptural, androgynous, a Studio 54 star, who thrashed Schwarzenegger as she wanted in Conan the Destroyer. In those times she took nude photos and was fascinated by her skin. I don’t like her aggressive poses, but she had perfect skin. Tanned with golden reflections, I imagine her in a back nude, sitting in front of my Olympus OM-10, from her shaved head to her buttocks. And a drop of this perfume on the nape of her neck that traces every muscle and erect pore of her skin, sliding down her spine until disappearing in her coccyx. With the sensuality and elegance of a toned black panther. Her bottle doesn’t match the aroma: it looks like the helical drawing of DNA. From the front it forms a woman with angular shapes, like Jones, and from the side it looks like a pregnant woman, a contemporary interpretation of paleolithic Venuses. Pure fascination in a bottle…
I totally agree with the two previous reviews. Friends of mine wore this Montana perfume in the 80s and 90s, and it always seemed like a proper ‘perfumon’. It’s a very dry, smoky chypre-leather with a rich, personal spicy rose and pepper. It has a distinctive, incisive, and biting touch, so it’s not easy to wear. Very nocturnal, it suits biker women, with jeans and leather jackets, with an air of rebellion and determination. A perfume for pubs and discos to seduce, with a cigarette in hand, taking the initiative. Moreover, it survives today and has a very loyal clientele. Whoever wears it rarely leaves it. A masterpiece by Montana.
CLAUDE MONTANA, the king of shoulder pads, son of a Spanish father and a German mother. His tough upbringing was evident in his black leather designs and Gilet cuts, models that looked like punk, techno, and house sculptures. He forced his models not to smile and to walk with a martial step. He was the first to turn his shows into a spectacle, surrounded by his court of miracles dressed in black and leather, who accompanied him to chaotic Parisian 80s and 90s nightclubs like Le Palace and Les Bains Douches. Alongside Mugler and Gaultier, he formed the triumvirate of Parisian fashion in the 80s. He married his muse, Wallis Franken, in 1993 just to spite fate, but afterwards came the downfall with drugs and alcohol, which ended with her suicide and the bankruptcy of his house. PARFUM DE PEAU was his first fragrance and the most faithful to the eighties essence. I would place it in the Chypre Leather Floral family. Its opening is an aldehydic spill; although they don’t appear on the card, they are the framework of the fragrance just as the shoulder pads framed his jackets. They have so much force that they are noticeable all the time. Then it moves to a phase I don’t know if is floral-leather or leather-floral, where the flowers have leather petals and the leather has floral dyes. I distinguish carnation, cloves (not declared), narcissus, and rose, nothing sweet, very animal. They are not those floral effluvia that disgust me, but benzoic and turpentine-like flowers of power and rotundity that only go with walking at a gallop. Its base is musky leather with traces of those contundent flowers. It’s like LAUDER’s YOUTH DEW and OPIUM 1977. I can’t find better references. I would just love to be one of those perfumers! PARFUM DE PEAU is a synthetic fragrance; its aroma does not exist in nature and that artificiality is its beauty secret.
I bought it because of my cousin’s bride’s scent; on her skin, it left an interesting, sweet, aromatic, and slightly spicy trail, like turmeric. It was very present, intoxicating, and seductive. When I bought it, I noticed it was stronger than I remembered and lacked that spice. One day I mixed it with Natura’s Flor de Laranjeira (for the bergamot) and it was beautiful: more floral, with a creamy and soft base. But with autumn, the spicy nuances returned that overwhelm me. I didn’t realise the heat transformed it so much. Now it smells drier, with a less saturated opening (I didn’t like the vegetable calendula much before). What I like are leather, incense, narcissus, and rose. I love it more in the cold; it becomes earthy and its particularities stand out.
I didn’t know it until I saw it in a perfumery with discontinued stock. Although it’s an EDT, it surpasses many EDPs in projection and longevity. It’s a bitter, spicy-floral, vintage, and powerful scent, totally eighties. It reminds me of Estee Lauder’s Knowing. It’s a gem with the quality and longevity of 80s and 90s perfumes. Everyone smells it as they pass. If you find it and like intense, heady scents, try it; it’s incredible and wonderful.
A year and a half later, with more experience, I say it’s one of my favourites. I love it in all seasons, depending on how you apply it… It’s unique. People compliment me even hours after wearing it. We have great chemistry. I regret to say I barely used 15 ml; it is so generous.
An eighties wonder, suitable only for exquisite noses. This fragrance cannot be worn by an anonymous or vulgar woman (or man); it must be carried by a cultivated soul, a person with charisma, class, and style. Narcotic, sexual, overwhelming, with impressive longevity and sillage. Thank God it is still available, and by wearing it, it makes us forget the vulgarity of the times (and fragrances) we live in now. A masterpiece.
A wonderful eighties scent, only for exquisite noses. Not for someone vulgar, but for a cultivated soul with charisma and class. It’s narcotic, sexual, and overwhelming, with impressive longevity and sillage. Thank God it’s still available; wearing it makes you forget the vulgarity of current perfumes. A masterpiece.
It has great personality; it’s for women of character. Not everyone can pull it off. It’s intense, long-lasting, and stylish. Sophisticated yet unpredictable. I wore it in summer and found it fresh, like chilli with a floral-citrus twist. I would always wear it again, but I haven’t seen it in shops for a long time. One of my favourites.
Montana Parfum de Peau is my go-to fragrance. I’ve been collecting bottles since 1989, and the count is endless. It was love at first sight. Although I have other favourites, when I don’t know what to wear, it’s always this one. I find it, but not in every perfumery. Although it shines brighter in winter, I wear it all year round. For me, it is a masterpiece.
It’s the signature of an aunt I admire: beautiful, independent, and possessing a wardrobe that induces fainting. I’ve only ever heard her wear it; it’s her trademark. Perhaps I wouldn’t like it if it weren’t for her. It’s not for the shy; it screams a woman of iron will who fears nothing and demands to be the centre. The longevity and sillage are phenomenal, far more eighties than Xuxa. A wild beauty at a ridiculous price, a work of art as Belvedere says.
This has been the scent of one of my aunts since I can remember. She is someone I admire: a beautiful, coquettish woman of exquisite taste who chose not to be a mother, has never depended on anyone economically, and owns a wardrobe so large it makes you dizzy. I have only ever smelled this fragrance on her; for me, it is her signature, and I wonder if I would like Parfum de Peau if it weren’t for her. Not for the timid, this fragrance announces a woman of steel, one who is not to be overwhelmed and who fears nothing. With spectacular longevity and sillage, and far more eighties than Xuxa, Parfum de Peau is a wild beauty that I fear will soon be discontinued, given its ridiculously low price. As Belvedere comments, a work of art.
I am rewriting my review because the first one didn’t do it justice. Parfum de Peau is a beautiful and characterful 80s perfume. It is an amber dream, incense (which gives it a slightly smoky touch), ginger (which adds a spicy note), rather mature fruity notes, and leather, although somewhat tamed by the other notes. IT IS NOT a perfume to buy blindly.
I just bought it. It’s an atomic bomb, very hard to tolerate on warm days. Longevity of over 15 hours pure incense, musk, and its voluptuous flowers: narcissus, rose, and jasmines… Its potency is overwhelming. A minimum spray is already enough. I like it, but it is too powerful for my nose.
I used it in the 90s, a perfume with character and presence. Its opening is spicy due to the pepper, very spiced. It is a strong fragrance, not to be sprayed much, lasts hours. On my skin, it smells of patchouli with incense. I didn’t buy it again, the bottle is beautiful.
I bought it following a review by Silvia Perfumes looking for vintage, classic, and ambered perfume. For me, the opening is similar to Clinique’s Aromatics Elixir, then it becomes animal, mysterious, and mystical with that incense, amber, and patchouli. It is earthy and elegant; the narcissus suits it. While it resembles others, without a doubt it is more elegant and standout, it is a treasure. Ten out of ten for longevity as an EDT, with a beastly trail.
A flashback perfume. It transports me back to the 90s. My French cousin, Nancy (the most naturally sophisticated woman I know -if one accepts the oxymoron-), announced her arrival by filling the house staircase with Parfum de Peau. Some smell it of boiled potatoes, others purely of incense. I fully agree with everything read: opulent, mysterious, if you don’t follow the game, it will eat you alive. I couldn’t hold back when I saw it alone on the lowest shelf of a shopping centre perfumery. Being a man, I applied it with great pleasure and full conviction.
Today, after waiting a short while, my 100ml full bottle arrived, of the first formula, from when it wasn’t yet called ‘Parfum de Peau’ (a press term since 1992) but ‘Eau de Toilette’. 81% alcohol. Distributed in the USA by Montana Parfums Inc, before ‘Montana’ became an independent brand. It’s from 1986. My first encounter was with the current version in a perfumery: black musk everywhere, a chypre leather to the max. Strong and potent, the kind that burns the hairs on your nose, and even to us, lovers of perfumes that are ‘sticky’ or have personality, it seems like a total excess (along the lines of Clinique’s Aromatics Elixir). I loved it. I took my time searching for an original bottle because they are all expensive. To my surprise, I found mine for a bargain and didn’t hesitate. Today it arrived, I removed the cap, and when my nose caught it, it seemed to be in the presence of someone warm and sweet, nothing like that wild musk. A cultured person without condescension, radiating innate sweetness. The true skin perfume: pleasant and delicious, with ambered spices but not cloying, leaning towards androgynous vanilla leather. Nothing invasive. Hypnotic and sophisticated. Montana sought something different from the popular perfumes of the time, like Poison or Opium. Scent bombs that exploded and covered the smell of tobacco. Montana from 1986 is a ‘your skin but better’, with incomparable androgynous beauty. Ambered and spiced musk with a base of flowers and dark honey. Worthy of taking it on a date, wearing extravagant clothes with shoulder pads and ready to seduce the businessman from Trump Tower who would buy you a penthouse in the most expensive area of NY and gift you a wardrobe of furs.
Today, after a short wait, a 100 ml bottle, completely full of the first formulation of this perfume, arrived in my hands, from when it was not yet called ‘Parfum de Peau’ (a term coined from 1992, born in the press) but ‘Eau de Toilette’. With an alcohol percentage of 81%. Distributed in the USA by Montana Parfums Inc, when ‘Montana’ was not yet registered as an independent perfume brand. A bottle from 1986. I must say that my first encounter with this perfume was with the current version in a perfumery. Black musk everywhere, a full-blown leather chypre. Strong and potent, those that burn the hairs on your nose, and even to us, lovers of ‘sticky’ perfumes, or as I say, with personality, it seems like a total excess (along the line of Clinique’s Aromatics Elixir). I loved it. It took me some time to decide to search for a bottle with the original formulation, as they are all at prohibitive prices. To my surprise, I found mine for a real bargain and did not hesitate twice to buy it. Today it arrived; I removed the cap, and when my nose caught it, I felt as if I were in the presence of a warm and sweet person, nothing like that wild and extravagant musk. A cultured person, in no way condescending, radiating an innate sweetness. The true skin perfume (Parfum de Peau), a pleasant and delicious skin, with ambered spices but not cloying, leaning towards an androgynous vanilla-leather scent. Nothing invasive. Hypnotic, sophisticated. My inquiry was soon corroborated; Montana sought to create a perfume totally different from the popular perfumes of the time, such as Poison or Opium. Scent bombs that exploded in the air and overpowered the sour, penetrating smell of tobacco. Montana from 1986 is a ‘your skin but better’, of incomparable androgynous beauty. Ambered and spiced musk with a base of flowers and dark honey. A perfume worthy of being worn on a date, wearing your extravagant clothes with exaggerated shoulders, ready to seduce the businessman working in the Trump Tower, who buys you a penthouse in the most expensive and glamorous area of New York and gifts you a complete wardrobe of exquisite fur coats.
It was the first imported perfume I bought. I only wear it in winter. Almost thirty years later, I still enjoy it, although I admit it’s no longer my favourite. I don’t know if it’s due to the reformulation or because my tastes have changed. However, it is a perfume I need to own to feel it again.
Please, let someone confirm to me that they have been reformulated to the hilt, because I can’t detect the wood or the wonderful aroma, only powder and musk, heavy and insistent without being potent or having personality. Either they’ve ruined it or my taste is the opposite of everyone else’s. I’ve tried it twice and there isn’t a millimetre of coincidence. I almost cancelled my Animalé order in case it’s similar 🥺
Please, let someone confirm to me that it has been hyper-reformulated, because I do not detect the wood note or the wonderful aroma, only powdery and heavy musk, insistent without being potent or having personality, in short, either they have ruined it or my taste is the opposite of everyone else’s. I have tried it twice and it does not match at all. I am about to cancel my order for Animal in case it is similar 🥺
@Adabarcelona, I’m telling you it has been reformulated to the max. I used it for years and adored it; it was my signature until it disappeared around 2004/2005 and reappeared, I believe in 2009, already reformulated. I no longer use it nor recommend it; the notes don’t fit, and worst of all, the blackberry is missing. For those of us who love chypres, synthetic oakmoss has ruined these classics.
A total work of art, both the bottle and the liquid. Nowadays, I think many people don’t know how to appreciate scents that don’t smell of caramel. This one smells different and is miles away from everything being produced these days.