Tendenza by Van Gils

VAN GILS, that unknown yet astonishing Dutch brand. I know little of this house: CLASSIC pour homme and this TENDENZA pour homme. Both are radically different; both I like. HERMELINDUS CORNELUS VAN GILS (1924-2015) was a Dutch entrepreneur who founded a men’s clothing factory in the 1940s. Later, in 1946, he partnered with his brother JANUS VAN GILS and began making clothes for victims of the Second World War in Dinteloord. Two years later they moved to larger premises and in the 1950s expanded production to include children’s and men’s wear. Over the next two decades production increased and the brothers opened other factories, even in Portugal, Greece, Morocco, Malta and Mexico. In the 1970s, HERMIEL VAN GILS gradually transferred the company to his three sons, Alwin, Jacques and Ben. In 1978 they launched the Van Gils fashion brand, which became world-renowned. The company’s rapid growth caused problems in 1992. The brand was sold to another owner. It is the only Dutch men’s perfume brand, characterised by robust and deep fragrances. It starts with a very, but very punchy citrus note. Because it is not a springtime bath citrus or wild Caribbean lemons, but an acute, drastic and slapping citrus. A citrus that comes curving around and says ‘don’t move’. But what does this opening citrus have that makes it so special? Well, it almost doesn’t seem like a citrus, but rather a fruity wood, soaked for hours in an intense juice of pineapple, bergamot, lime and grapefruit. It seems we are preparing a bacchanalian New Year’s punch or a doomsday sangria, where we squeeze melons with sour apples and add liquor notes of gin with juniper and pepper. Who do we want to treat with such a refreshment of wine and rose nights? Lee Remick and Jack Lemon would be delighted by such a recipe, which, just by smelling it, transports you to clubs in Upper and Lower Manhattan, where bourbon triumphs more when we are under Prohibition than during the permissive years of Studio 54. TENDENZA is a rough and powerful perfume, mixing greasy masculine citrus tints of Tom Selleck with a diabolical gaze of a Dorian Grey bathed in sinful flowers like geranium and woods and spices like cedar, patchouli and vanilla. But none of them like soft or prudent aromas. TENDENZA is a woody citrus perfume but with a thick, almost rusty carnal component. The Abominable Doctor Phibes avenging his wife with the help of the mysterious Vulnavia, or perhaps Winslow Leach stalking his beloved Phoenix from the high trusses of the Paradise. When we speak of Mephistopheles or Steven Marcato, we cannot think of Chanel or Balenciaga. TENDENZA is the perfume they deserve: drastic, powerful, powerhouse, rough, pungent, dark red like blood sliding along lips that once were full of life and now live a different eternity than ours, but no less suggestive for that.

Van Gils, that Dutch brand so unknown yet surprising. I know little about them: they have Classic pour homme and this Tendance pour homme, radically different and both are to my taste. Hermiel Cornelus Van Gils founded a clothing factory in the 40s, later made clothes for war victims, and in the 50s expanded to children and men. In the 70s they passed the company to their sons and in 1978 launched the Van Gils fashion brand, which grew until being sold in 1992. It is the only Dutch men’s perfume brand, with bold and deep fragrances. Tendance starts with a very punchy citrus: not a springtime bath citrus, but sharp, drastic, and slap-in-the-face. It hardly seems citrusy, but rather a fruity wood submerged in pineapple juice, bergamot, lime, and grapefruit. It seems to prepare a bacchanalian punch with melons, sour apples, gin, juniper, and pepper. Who would treat with such a refreshment of wine nights and roses? Lee Remick and Jack Lemmon would be pleased. It transports you to Manhattan clubs where bourbon triumphed during Prohibition. Tendance is a rough and potent perfume: mixing slick, masculine citrus tints like Tom Selleck with a devilish gaze of a Dorian Grey bathed in sinful flowers like geranium and woods like cedar, patchouli, and vanilla. Neither likes soft or prudent aromas. Tendance is a woody citrus with a thick, almost rusty carnal component. It is the perfume for Mephistopheles or Steven Marcato, not for Chanel or Balenciaga. It is drastic, potent, rough, pungent, dark red like blood sliding down lips that once were full of life, yet no less suggestive.

I really like this fragrance. It brings me memories of D&G ‘The One’ but sweeter. From the opening to the end, it seems to me an attractive, romantic and seductive aroma. Ideal for use on cold days, preferably for night outings. Although it does not clash at all in work environments. In hot weather it can result in being heavy, although I insist, night outings, discos, etc., are its thing in my opinion. It allows over-application without problems. Longevity and trail are moderate, unless you apply generously, in which case the first hour is of a heavy trail. I did not know this brand, it was a pleasant surprise.