Men
Youth-Dew Amber Nude
Acordes principales
Descripción
Youth-Dew Amber Nude by Estée Lauder for women is an oriental vanilla fragrance. The nose behind this composition is Christophe Laudamiel. The top notes are cinnamon, ginger, tea, magnolia and grapefruit; the heart notes include carnation, ylang-ylang, black rose and jasmine; and the base notes are amber, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver.
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927 votos
- Positivo 77%
- Negativo 21%
- Neutral 1.9%
Pirámide olfativa
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It lasts forever, despite resembling the predecessor Youth-Dew, which my mother used daily before switching to the horrendous Paloma Picasso, a scent I cannot stand. Thank God my father had the courage to tell her it did not suit her! Anyway… depending on your pH, the spices can slap you in the face or you will smell wonderful. This is the humble review of a user, not of a trained nose.
One of the best flankers of an already unsurpassable perfume like Youth Dew. When Lauder released this version, Tom Ford had just left Gucci and YSL, where he left a record of brutal perfumes (Envy, Rush, M7, Nu…). Modernising a perfect classic is difficult; Ford was clever. Instead of making something modern like Catapano, he opted for classicism. Youth Dew Amber Nude is the same Youth Dew but with a velvet tone, as if it were at room temperature, recalling the humidity of freshly cut fruits and flowers (ginger, ylang, amber). It is like crossing the diabolical and spicy Youth Dew with the soapy cleanliness of classics like Chanel No. 5 or Bois d’Orange. It is an old perfume but with a spicy spark that makes it contemporary. If it were a month, it would be September. In Amber Nude everything fits: the American perfection of Lauder with the spicy spark of Ford. The whole line was beautiful, even if it were for Marilyn Monroe. The bottle, with its amber ribbing and bow, evokes refined passion-filled nights. To finish, one must mention Carolyn Murphy, pretty and American, the perfection of the simple beauty of the New World. PS: I would not pay much, but if you find it at the launch price, do not hesitate, it is a jewel that went unnoticed.
ESTÉE LAUDER (1906-2004). Her parents were Hungarian and Czech immigrants from humble backgrounds, despite what she claimed. Sharp-witted and with the help of her uncle, a chemist and cosmetologist, she started selling her own creams. In 1953 she launched YOUTH DEW and, thanks to the bath oil and then the perfume, she scented all middle-class American women, becoming the richest woman in the world. She also created ARAMIS and CLINIQUE. The original oil had 30% perfume, triple what it is today, so with a bath you smelled incredible. Those were other times. YOUTH DEW AMBER NUDE: it starts with a citrusy and spicy opening of ginger, almost aldehydic and bright, but that freshness lasts a second. Then it invades a dark, indolic and animalic accord, stronger than the original. It is a deep oriental scent with a cinnamon so dense it seems like shifting sand. Mixed with a thick and earthy patchouli, it smells like oud from the most remote East, although it does not contain oud. It has indolic jasmine, a black rose, the Night Queen, thick ylang-ylang and a dark amber, sweet like carnivorous plant ointment, which makes you sleepy. As it evolves, the dark side softens with honeyed notes and the cinnamon becomes sweet like dessert. When it dries down, it smells soapy, sweet and powdery, very different from the start. It is a well-constructed perfume, complex and beautiful in its evolution. A classic with its own personality. (From the perfumery of ESPARTACO).
What beautiful reviews I read about this jewel. I have no words. I bought it in 2008, the 75ml version, and have only used it on special occasions, like last New Year’s Eve. There are barely 3ml left, a little of this enchanting elixir; it hurts to know it was a limited edition and I will never find it again. Every time I take it out of its box and unscrew the cap, ugh, I get addicted to it. It smells truly vintage, not “inspired”, but of past times, happy and nostalgic. I imagine it was created for a Hollywood star of the golden age, like Mae West or Humphrey Bogart, running towards their mansions in Los Angeles to go to the Oscars. It evokes pure elegance, good manners and contained sensuality. It is unisex. I will keep it with great affection, my beautiful Amber Nude.