Bigarade Concentree by Frederic Malle

Too bad; I’m part of the minority for whom it doesn’t work. Without declaring it, the cumin note (perhaps with coriander) amplifies on my skin and olfactory sense, giving that typical sweat smell. I understand it’s my skin, as it happens with several perfumes with that note, like Declaration by Cartier. That said, in the background I notice the bitter orange, the transition to a rose with green notes, and as it moves towards the woody, the cumin fades. A pity.

What a great pity… A bitter citrus aroma at first. It is green, floral and woody. There is something in the dry-down that turns creamy. I am not much of a fan of citrus, but this as a whole is a marvel. The drama lies in the performance. Something at this price cannot afford to perform in this manner. What a great pity…

A very pleasant and fresh bitter and green citrus for summer. It’s very bright, even a bit metallic, but with all the ingredients very well assembled; yes, it’s nothing innovative that you say “wow”. The drama is that it lasts very little and is unjustifiable with the price it costs.

Do you know the sensation when suddenly you really want a glass of orange juice, a lemon polo, or a lime calipo? It’s a specific moment where the body knows with certainty that it wants something citrusy as much as possible. Well, for those moments this perfume is. That moment where what you want most is to put a lemon-basil candy in your mouth and let it melt slowly. It lasts and has strength. Coming from Jean-Claude Ellena, the king of citrus melodies, one couldn’t expect anything else. Personally I prefer his Limone by Laboratorio Olfattivo, but this citrus candy from Frederic Malle is of very high quality.

My first niche fragrance a year ago. The orange opens very strong, elegant, and gradually softens to give way to the woody notes. You can feel the hay joining with the herbs masterfully, and in the background there’s always that touch of rose that nuances the composition well. Definitely a citrus aroma that softens with the minutes. Spring or summer, the best time. Original and sophisticated in men. The bad thing is its short duration, about two hours, with a short trail or very low sillage, max 4 or 5 on the skin. The price-quality ratio leaves much to be desired, but if you’re a collector it’s a must.

Elegant and refined citrus, with a very fresh opening that evolves into bitter orange, then becomes sweeter with green touches towards the end. I absolutely loved it, although the trail is moderate from the start. Essential for lovers of quality citrus, ideal for daytime and elegant occasions. For men over 40. The price is high, but fans will understand.

Smells like bitter orange with a hint of grass that makes it fresher, and cedar that gives a forest feel. The initial projection is strong but lasts only 10 minutes; afterwards, it lingers on the skin with scarce longevity. The scent is very generic and dispensable.

It suits me well. Bitter orange notes over freshly cut grass with a hint of rose. It reminded me a bit of Orange Sanguine, but the developments are different. A great fragrance for Maestro Ellena’s heat. Ideal for spring and summer, for daytime. Moderate longevity and sillage.

After not testing it properly for a while, I smelled it calmly. I don’t sense any lemon, only bitter orange mixing with a light rose and another standout note I thought was cardamom, but I suppose it’s cedar with hay. It reminded me hugely of the original Declaration by Cartier, also by Ellena; the resemblance was surprising. The longevity seemed good (over 5-6 hours) and the trail was standout in the first hour, something rare for this style. I’m not sure if it’s worth the price, which is subjective, but it’s versatile and of very good quality.

Before giving my opinion, I transcribe Chandler Burr: ‘Bigarade Concentree plays with darkness. It smells of male armpit and wet female skin washed in rainwater and ozone. It’s a masterful juxtaposition. Smelling it is like peering into a cold, black well.’ My uneducated opinion: It smells of sweat. Either I’m olfactively illiterate, or my nose has worn out. I do smell the bitter orange (very bitter) and, almost on another planet, the rose. The cedar and grass smell of dry tree and pasture. I’d like to think it’s my body chemistry, but when I first smelled it, I made the face I make when sucking very sour orange juice. My retinas expanded! It’s not for me, but I’m glad I tried it. A whole experience.