Absinth by Nasomatto

This could be one of the greatest references in conceptual perfumery I’ve tried. Smelling it without knowing what it’s trying to convey can cause confusion or even disgust, so I believe it’s a fragrance for personal enjoyment and hard to like if you’re not used to such aromas. Upon spraying, it greets you with a harsh and bitter hit reminiscent of brambles, green leaves, and dry twigs. It has a damp and earthy base that reinforces that raw nature idea, probably due to earthy essences like patchouli which are the protagonists throughout. In essence, it’s quite linear; nuances appear occasionally, but the profile doesn’t change: it always smells of dry bushes and wild vegetation. Performance is good, lasting around 8 hours with extract behaviour: more trail than projection. With a breeze, it’s noticeable at a distance, but generally keeps projection close to the skin. Usage is complicated; personally, it doesn’t convey a specific occasion; you’d have to be creative with clothing to wear it well. I see it more suitable for day than night. It develops better in temperate climates; in heat, its harsh and bitter profile can be irritating, and I don’t think it has the strength for considerable cold. As for age, I perceive it as more mature; in youthful environments, it could clash; you need confidence to wear something so unconventional. It’s a very interesting, rare fragrance with which you’ll stand out, for better or worse. Personally, I won’t add it to my collection, but it seems a true olfactory work of art. Perhaps expensive for its performance and not very versatile, it’s more appreciated by avid collectors. For me, a 9/10.

Green and sweet, but with a spark and without being cloying. A delight.

Green and spiced fragrance, with great projection and acceptable longevity. The king here is absinthe (not wormwood as some say; absinthe is the drink, wormwood is the ingredient), accompanied by green notes that soften that alcoholic and sweet touch. One of the easiest to wear from Gaultier, ideal for daily use in temperate or hot climates (avoid extreme cold and heat).

I won’t write a long review because Absinthe isn’t that complex, and I think summarising helps us get a quick idea of what we’re in for. To the point: upon spraying, it’s herbaceous. Don’t imagine fresh, citrusy, radiant grass, but rather the opposite: warm, slightly dry, a bit bitter, yet very attractive and comforting. As it evolves, vetiver and musk become noticeable (it’s quite loaded), giving it a clean character that makes it a green, warm, earthy, sweet, and neat fragrance. Unfortunately, it’s not a performance bomb (5 to 6 hours on my skin) nor in projection, but it’s a quite pleasant scent that doesn’t receive the recognition it deserves among its siblings. For spring/autumn and informal occasions.