Ambre Suprême by Les Indemodables

I approached this Ambre Supreme by Les Indemodables with my curiosity at an all-time high; it’s rare to find real ambergris outside niche boutiques. The brand and perfumer have a stellar reputation, so my expectations were sky-high, but the reality left me a bit cold. Yes, the ambergris is noticeable and of high quality, with that distinctive musky, sweet touch that stands out, yet the floral or salty facets barely come through. Although the ambergris fixes well and should harmonise everything, here the perfume never quite opens up. They say ambergris acts like a patina, but I sense it more muted, as if covered up. The other notes are hardly perceptible: faint hints of pink pepper at the start that soon fade under a heavy dose of aldehydes and jasmine, dragging it into a waxy, very classic floral territory, amplified by that musky character. Ultimately, it feels a bit dull—a ‘want but can’t have’ situation: the quality is there, but if you’re looking for something with more facets and surprises with so much ambergris, I’d recommend looking at independent houses like Areej le Doré or Elixir Attar. Cheers!

A luminous amber that stole my heart. I purchased the brand’s discovery kit, which I highly recommend on their website given the ridiculously low price, and tested all nine perfumes one by one. This Ambre suprême was the winner. Before trying it, I read it contained 10% ambergris and thought: ‘How is that possible? It’s far too expensive for so much.’ I sprayed a little, and oh my, an indescribably crystal-clear, clean, and bright scent, thanks to well-crafted aldehydes balanced with a very subtle, wearable sweetness. Over time, the aldehyde effect fades, allowing the underlying amber to shine. This is the difference: it’s not the typical vanilla and labdanum accord, but a genuine 10% ambergris, a marvel that demonstrates the excellence of the materials. Because of this crystal character, it could be worn any time of year, even in the hottest summer; you just have to try it. It lasts around 10 hours with good projection for the first two, then settles but remains noticeable just a few centimetres from the skin. It is elegant and refined, not heavy or overwhelming like other ambers, and leaves you feeling wonderful. It is totally unisex and the quality-price ratio is top-notch. Without a doubt, the best purchase of 2022, one of the few that caught my attention and which I rate as extraordinary. I’m already planning to buy a refill bottle as I’ve used it a lot in a short time. A true gem!