Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

The legendary Guerlain ‘Mitsouko’, in EDT, 2021 edition. I don’t recognise this creation from the first spray. I thought I’d feel relieved. But no! Altered DNA! Unfortunately for me. A flight of spicy bergamot rounded by a barely ripe, dull and discoloured peach. I guess some kind of rose, only sublimated by a cold green jasmine (neither Sambac nor Grandiflorum). Not much spice, the cinnamon is gone, as is the amber. It’s less enveloping, less warm. I mourn the disappearance of oakmoss! Undoubtedly. That said, I think it has a rejuvenated, lifted face! A more ‘green’ fragrance, much less warm. More youthful? Moderate longevity, medium sillage. It’s still pleasant and could even be worn in spring and summer (in the evening). With climate change, it’s almost a ‘prescient’ edition! In any case, this edition rides on a good definition of youth-obsession (desire to promote the young / cult of youth)! But, for me, it’s a great olfactory disappointment! On the other hand, long live youth…

Mitsouko is a timeless masterpiece that smells of earth, soil and spices. Born over a century ago as a feminine fragrance, today it could be considered totally unisex. It can be worn by everyone, anywhere and anytime, as only true masterpieces can. Yet today, on a damp cold late-autumn day, it envelops with more radiance than usual. Longevity is excellent, over 8 hours. Oakmoss, the main protagonist of this fragrance, has been heavily restricted, so we cannot expect the new Mitsouko to smell identical to the vintage version. Nevertheless, I think Guerlain and Wasser have done everything possible – and even more – with the legendary line, and with Mitsouko in particular. The soul of these masterpieces still shines brightly.

I’m totally amazed by Guerlain and its perfumer Thierry Wasser for taking such good care of a perfume that is over 100 years old. Mitsouko is a journey through time. I’m so grateful to be able to buy a freshly made bottle in 2022. Mitsouko is autumnal, grown-up, complex and, as its Japanese name suggests, mysterious. It reminds me of 1930s film noir films, like Marlene Dietrich and Anna May Wong in Shanghai Express. I need to be in a thoughtful, nostalgic mood for it; wanting to please myself more than others. I recently bought this new version so as not to finish my vintage extrait too quickly. ♥♥♥

A great version of Mitsuko, very well-calibrated, harmonious and smooth. No harsh opening with spices like the parfum and the eau de parfum. The whole chypre range is felt at once – from bergamot to vetiver and oakmoss, strangely labelled in the pyramid as “roots” (okay, so roots). 10-15 minutes after application, the floral heart of the fragrance begins to open: for me it is a delicate, silky rose. It will be the solo instrument of this orchestra. I got a “compressed” Mitsuko, as if taking an olfactory play of stretched-out perfume, lasting several hours, recording it, pressing start and running through it in half an hour. Overall, I can say I am very impressed by the way the house of Guerlain handles its legendary heritage.