Peau d’Espagne

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• JPFernaud

  November 23, 2023

  

  Peau D’Espagne 1872: Opens with a green, bitter neroli, accompanied by verbena and a hint of bergamot, with no trace of rose. In the heart, the neroli persists, joined by lavender, carnation, and an almost imperceptible clove, all retaining that bitter edge without any sandalwood. In the dry down, most notes fade, leaving only the neroli, now intensely bitter due to birch tar which becomes more smoky over time, alongside a very soft styrax base without benzoin. It lasts around 4-5 hours with projection and over 8 hours on the skin. It’s interesting at first due to that fresh neroli, but the birch tar appears from the start and becomes too invasive in the middle, dominating the entire dry down. Recommended only for those seeking bitter resins and a strong smoky character; the dry down reminds me of a more natural and less intense version of Cartier’s Pasha Noir Absolu. I wouldn’t recommend it outside autumn and winter, as the cold and humidity are necessary to prevent it from becoming unpleasant or annoying.