Barkhane by Teo Cabanel

The amber here doesn’t weigh you down; it floats. The cumin keeps it light, while the curry, which should be more famous, truly shines. It’s vertical, like smoke rising from incense yet it’s floral nectar. It’s serious yet cheerful, a Pythia of Delphi: ominous as prophecy and wild as a delirium.

On my skin, it starts super-spiced with a soft, wearable curry. As it dries, that edge recedes, becoming warm, ambered and vanilla-scented. I detect labdanum and myrrh, a smoky balsamic character I adore. There’s an animalic musk (not dirty) that rounds everything off. At times it smells of oud, but subtly, making it ideal for a trial. It’s unisex, autumnal/winter, deep and mysterious. It’s in my top 3 of Teo Cabanel. Ultimately, it smells a bit like Café Cabanel. Projection is moderate at first, then intimate, but it lasts over eight hours on skin. I love it immensely and would love to buy a bottle.

Potent, spicy and peppery with a fruity touch, yet surprisingly light. After ten minutes it transforms, and I absolutely love how it dries down. If the longevity were better (I’ve only tested samples), I’d buy it without hesitation.

Easy to wear and smells great to spice lovers. I detect nothing citrusy at the start despite the bergamot. The curry and cumin are well executed, soft and balanced. The drydown is rich, ambered and vanilla-like, similar to Café Cabanel. It has good projection initially, but later it sits close to the skin and lasts 5-6 hours. I find this short for its price. I will continue testing the Teo Cabanel kit to find my perfume. Scent 8.5/10, Longevity 6/10, Projection 8/10, Value for money 6/10, Versatility 7/10, Packaging 9/10. Would I buy again? No, I did not purchase it.

Thanks to Fragrantica.com I was able to try it; I doubt I would have come across it without last year’s giveaway. Like dhoakohime, it reminds me of Ambre Sultan, but Barkhane is more vaporous and subtle, perhaps which is why it is less long-lasting. It is not as intense as Lutens’ version, yet it is more woody and spiced, less herbal. In Ambre Sultan, green herbs like coriander and patchouli stand out, with oregano and bay as secondary notes; in Barkhane, the herbal aspect leans towards cumin and curry. These notes are perceptible and initially gave me a fright, but they blend perfectly, moderating alongside a faint oud and the warm sweetness of vanilla-ciste-labdanum. A dense, bitter-sweet myrrh gives it that exotic, mysterious touch I adore. It is a spiced oriental with everything: resins, spices, flowers, powdery, smoky, almost mystical, yet with vaporous elegance.