Cassini by Oleg Cassini

I can see Helen Sharp and Madeline Ashton fighting over this perfume in ‘Death Becomes Her’, or as Albert’s favourite in ‘Birdcage’. Cassini never goes unnoticed: from the typography to the extravagant ’80s ‘Miami Beach’ style colours of the box. The bottle has voluptuous curves that combine perfectly with its giant gold appliqués and the cap, a ruby with burgundy/violet tones. My review is for the Eau de Parfum, which I find exquisite, intoxicating and intense, just like the characters in those films; the scent immediately reminded me of them. Cassini belongs to late ’80s fragrances, when spicy fruity florals with oriental touches were in fashion, just before the ‘aquatic wave’ took over. It has strong influences from fragrances like Elizabeth Taylor’s Passion and Balenciaga’s Rumba; if you like one, you’ll inevitably like the other. It’s a characterful, histrionic scent that goes all out. Today it’s out of fashion, but how many more days do we have before we miss those elixirs that lasted over 12 hours and the next morning you woke up to the opulence of their bases, quiet but still talking? It’s astonishing to see the amount of glass used in that bottle, in an era when spending on something truly worthwhile was common. Nothing but praise. From the first spray, we feel the ambered fruity brilliance with petals of red flowers like carnations and roses. It’s well musky, slightly spicy, with a smoky base (almost incense) that generates more presence over time. It’s not a simple floral/fruity; it has more to offer, with an endless array of notes. Apart from what I’ve mentioned, I sense patchouli and iris. Oleg Cassini’s story is very interesting: from his Russian origins to his arrival in the US, where he dressed Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Veronica Lake and Rita Hayworth. He was the creative mind behind Jackie Kennedy’s look and designed the most sought-after wedding dresses. What a rich fragrance!