Derrick by Orlane

I picked this up on Carlos Rubio’s recommendation, paid 16 euros, and after just one spray, I knew it wasn’t for me. I’m going to try layering to see if I can lighten up that intense, potent resinous scent, as I’m not particularly fond of such aromas. If I can’t soften it, I’ll either swap it or gift it away.

There are days when, if you’re feeling down or in a bad mood, it’s wise to accompany your gloom with a dark perfume to add a touch of caricature and take the edge off. Derrick by Orlane is anything but luminous, yet it ends up being endearing, like a lovable pessimist. Created in 1978, it’s clearly a child of its time: green and mossy tones with lavender, pine, and rosemary, plus some soapy floral touches. The best part is its potent woody and spicy base. The initial green darkens with patchouli, nutmeg, and pepper. It’s packed with spices that shift its spectrum so it’s not just another earthy green, but unique, threatening, yet affectionately so. It’s a humble cologne, cheap as peanuts, so don’t expect much complexity beyond the excellent concept that makes it up. It is what it is, and I’m delighted. It could be my signature fragrance, made to be loved and worn every day, nothing reserved for special occasions. Moderate projection and good longevity to smell like friendly antipathy.

A fragrance from the 70s at prices from that decade. Its olfactory family is very distinct: woods and spices take up almost the whole pie. It’s very masculine, pleasant, and adapts well to a man’s skin, yielding different results for each with a personal style. It stands out for not being very well-known or available everywhere, usable in both cold and heat (with fewer applications in summer). Its scent is very familiar; in the bathroom it leaves a trail that makes you feel good and comfortable. I highlight that within its dark and strong composition, sweet tones are noticeable, with a certain oriental side due to the cinnamon, patchouli, and sandalwood. The spicy part is good and slightly peppery from the black pepper. It’s a perfume with a clear authentic vintage tendency that doesn’t leave people indifferent; its presence is felt, it’s not annoying, and it has good fixation and projection. Quality and price have never been better matched, especially being a very masculine perfume that wouldn’t leave any doubt about a possible unisex appeal. Nowadays, at least in Spain, it has a minority use that gives it an added advantage of exclusivity.