Vert d’Encens by Tom Ford

I like the Ford line; they cater to everyone: they sell cologne at 200 euros to make you die then release decent perfumes at 100 euros and value the artistic over the popular like this Vert d’Encens pure vintage. The name is misleading: the incense shines by its absence it’s residual. It’s a battle between powdery blue talc in the style of Guerlain and a cinnamon-dominant oriental that takes over the dry down. It would have been better called Vert de Cannelle. I remember being about to buy it blindly thinking it would be a green wet incense; what joy I didn’t the letdown would have been brutal. The opening is dated smoky violet vegetal iris with anguished peaks like Grey Flannel or Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire a battle of violet/lily/heliotrope with touches of carnation. It smells of Frenchified heliotrope out of place these days. Then the heliotrope paste with hints of blue flower turns into an unroasted sweet like white marzipan nougat evoking a workshop but not cheap or literal like the neighbourhood bakery; it makes you visualise sweet strangely warm marzipan. The sweetness comes from the resins and the freshness of the green notes I can’t quite make out adding a balsamic and cold tone to that moth-eaten heliotrope marzipan. Here I already know I don’t like it. The unexpected cinnamon confirms it joining the vanilla-talc of the Belle Époque to mutate into an eighties oriental. I only smell a shrill spicy cinnamon like Hot Tamales more chewing gum strangely green and smoky. I don’t feel the myrtle fir or pine they claim accords that blow my mind but I do feel that sweet paste enhanced by something balsamic and smoky. The incense the actor of the perfume I barely catch it as a mirage for a few seconds. I searched Fragrantica and websites that say: balsam fir pine heliotrope lavender basil bergamot lemon cardamom and heather. Before nothing fit now even less… where is the cinnamon clove and carnation? That’s all I feel: heliotrope cinnamon clove and carnation. Full stop. It’s discontinued. PS: I thought it was more feminine than masculine ideal for La Bella Otero or Frankenhooker. PS II: I can’t stop reading reviews of magnificent forests and pure nature… I don’t understand anything I promise you.

Vert d’Encens projects a delicious and captivating green. The secret is its gourmet chocolate scent from the best patisserie mixed with resins incense balsam fir pine and fine herbs. The result is a festive epic and addictive opening. Some YouTubers rank it among the top five of the Tom Ford Private Blend collection alongside Amber Absolute Tobacco Oud Intense Tuscan Leather and Oud Wood. I relate this fragrance to both summer and winter. On one hand summer projecting the scent of conifers in forests caressed by wind and mist; it reminds me of being on top of a high mountain listening to rain below while the sun bronzes my face and storm clouds discharge lightning underneath. On the other hand winter: the tender rays of the sun caressing my cheeks upon waking after a Christmas night in a forest cabin with a smell of fir and pine from the tree room. Nearby on the bureau remain the packages of Swiss pralines I enjoyed the night before. Swiss chocolate and hazelnuts are the perfect combination to say: Merry Christmas!

I really like the Ford line; they cater to all audiences: from cheap colognes to luxury jewels and they also value the artistic over the commercial like this Vert d’Encens a very vintage perfume. The name is misleading the incense is barely noticeable it’s residual. What you smell is a mix between powdery blue talc in the style of Guerlain and an oriental with cinnamon that dominates the dry down. It should be called Vert de Cannelle. I remember almost buying it blindly thinking it would be a green wet incense what luck I didn’t. The opening is dated with smoky violet vegetal iris and anguished touches like in Grey Flannel or Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire a battle between violet lily and heliotrope with hints of carnation. It smells of Frenchified heliotrope somewhat out of place these days. Then the heliotrope paste with floral hints turns sweet and unroasted like white marzipan nougat evoking a workshop but more sophisticated with a patisserie aftertaste that you visualise as warm. The sweetness comes from the resins and the freshness of the green notes which unfortunately I can’t distinguish separately they only add a balsamic and cold tone to that old heliotrope marzipan. I already know I don’t like it. And when an unexpected guest arrives the cinnamon enters joining the vanilla-talc of the Belle Époque to mutate into an eighties oriental. The card doesn’t match; I only smell shrill spicy cinnamon like Hot Tamales more chewing gum strangely green and smoky. I don’t feel the myrtle fir or pine they claim but I do feel that sweet paste boosted by something balsamic and smoky. The incense the main actor I barely catch it as a mirage for half a second at 4 or 5 minutes. I looked up the official notes because Fragrantica fails: they say balsam fir pine heliotrope lavender basil bergamot lemon cardamom and heather. Now even less than before… where is the cinnamon clove and carnation? That’s all I feel: heliotrope cinnamon clove and carnation. Full stop. It’s discontinued. PS: I think it’s more feminine ideal for La Bella Otero or Frankenhooker. PS II: I read many reviews of magnificent forests and pure nature but I don’t understand anything.