Heartless Helen by Penhaligon's

At first, it smells like old Juanola tablets, exactly the same scent, although the description doesn’t mention licorice. I didn’t like the sample; I didn’t even use the full bottle because I didn’t feel comfortable wearing the perfume. I see it as an autumn scent for quiet evenings, once the heat has passed; nothing for everyday wear or big events.

A magical citrus fragrance. Years ago, I wasn’t a fan of citrus, but when I entered the niche world, I sought something surprising: tobacco, oud, alcohol, molecules… Years later, when the forbidden ceased to be novel and I aligned the perfume with my rhythm, I returned to the luminous, noble, and easy. These are the ones that leave a pleasant aftertaste and make a cordial impression. There are stages fighting against everything, wanting to be strong and complex, and others arriving at the destination, relaxed and in harmony. Here is Heartless Helen, for spring and summer, with juicy, sweet, and woody neroli. The opening is explosive and delightful, though not innovative. Penhaligon’s describes it as feminine; I see it as unisex; the neroli doesn’t dominate to make it floral, but harmonises perfectly with the citrus and wood, available for anyone who wants to wear it. Perfect for the office, elegant, noble but balanced. On my skin, it’s spectacular: medium-to-high projection and 8-10 hours. The beautiful aquamarine colour of the liquid and the spectacular bottle stand out.

Chapter 8 for neroli lovers: Dominique Ropion makes it accessible and less intoxicating than other potent florals. The citrus opening with tangerine and pink pepper adds freshness and reduces its density. In the heart, it’s a soapy, clean, creamy neroli—elegant without being overpowering. The drydown loses strength quickly, leaving only a sweet, subtle trail close to the skin. In my case, the longevity is moderate and the sillage is moderate, but it’s vital to try it first; on other skin types, it could last longer. A moderate white floral, ideal for those seeking neroli without the usual drama.

It opens super fresh and citrusy (reminds me of a fizzy drink) and soon turns into a sweet flower (like the yellow ones with a honey stick) and also an old-fashioned sweet (those heart-shaped wedding sweets). It’s an interesting scent that captivates and doesn’t cloy because it’s subtle. I’d place it third in this line (first Yasmine, second Lady Blanche). It might be worth buying or finding a cheaper option with those notes. Unisex, feminine.

Total surprise! I use it and love it. It’s clean, gourmand, intoxicating and curious. To me, it smells of apricot, nuts, green stems and fig milk, rather than mandarin. It’s floral from the start, with tuberose, daisies, fresh pumpkin, nectar and rosemary honey. It recalls lonicera in summer with a fresh eucalyptus finish. An imposing trail with just two sprays. Let’s forget classifying by gender; it’s perfect for spring and autumn. Women have complimented me a lot, let’s be brave! It’s a wonder.