Heartless Helen by Penhaligon's

What a magical citrus fragrance! 😍 Years ago I wasn’t a fan of citrus, but when I entered a niche perfumery looking for something surprising—tobacco, oud, complex scents—I changed my mind. Once the forbidden became ordinary and I aligned the perfume with my life, I returned to something luminous, noble and easy, to leave a good impression on those around me. There are stages fighting against everything, trying to appear strong (Black Phantom, The Lover’s Tale…), and others arriving at the destination, relaxed and smiling. That is where I find Heartless Helen: a spring-summer fragrance with juicy, sweet and woody citrus tuberose. The opening is explosive and delicious, though not incredibly innovative. Penhaligon’s lists it as feminine, but I see it as unisex; the tuberose doesn’t dominate to make it floral, but harmonises perfectly with the citrus and wood notes for anyone who wants to wear it. Ideal for the office: elegant, noble yet distinctive, balanced and special. On my skin it’s spectacular, with medium-high projection and 8-10 hours longevity. The gorgeous aquamarine colour of the juice and the spectacular bottle stand out.

(Tuberose lovers chapter 8) Tuberose without excess, with freshness and subtle sweetness. Dominique Ropion takes tuberose to a more accessible terrain than intense florals like Gucci Bloom or Do Son. The prominence of the tuberose is tempered by a sparkling citrus opening of mandarin and pink pepper, adding effervescent freshness and reducing density. The heart phase unfolds a soapy, clean and creamy tuberose, elegant without being invasive. However, the dry-down loses intensity quickly, leaving just a sweet and subtle trail close to the skin. In my case, the longevity was discrete and the trail moderate, but it’s essential to try it before, as it could perform better on other skin types. A moderate white floral, ideal for those seeking the essence of tuberose without the usual drama.

Total surprise! I use it and love it. It’s clean, gourmand, intoxicating and curious. To me, it smells of apricot, nuts, green stems and fig milk, rather than mandarin. It’s floral from the start, with tuberose, daisies, fresh pumpkin, nectar and rosemary honey. It recalls lonicera in summer with a fresh eucalyptus finish. An imposing trail with just two sprays. Let’s forget classifying by gender; it’s perfect for spring and autumn. Women have complimented me a lot, let’s be brave! It’s a wonder.

It concentrates all the natural sweetness of the flower, like a Starlux herbal-scented tablet. Intense and penetrating, it hits hard and leaves a particular trail. It smells of glucose or a very sweet and deep herbal substance, curious. It’s the scent of tuberose txutxes, gummies and pure nectar lollipops. Without sugar, but with a natural sweetness like maple syrup. Interesting to know, though I don’t think it’s for me.

In the opening, I notice something that reminds me of old Juanola pastilles, the same scent, although it doesn’t state it has licorice. I didn’t like the sample; I didn’t finish using it because I didn’t feel comfortable with the perfume. I see it for autumn and evening, a quiet night when it starts to cool down and the heat has passed, nothing for everyday wear or major events.

At first, it smells like old Juanola tablets, exactly the same scent, although the description doesn’t mention licorice. I didn’t like the sample; I didn’t even use the full bottle because I didn’t feel comfortable wearing the perfume. I see it as an autumn scent for quiet evenings, once the heat has passed; nothing for everyday wear or big events.