Oud Minérale by Tom Ford

Well formulated. Conceptually similar yet with distinct notes, this Oud Minerale competes with fragrances such as Orto Parisi’s Megamare and, unfortunately for me (or perhaps luckily), Lattafa’s Atlas. The ambroxan in Atlas changed my perception of this genre. It is much more approachable than the previous ones, though it remains challenging: it is not for a father, brother, friend, or a middle-class girl’s boyfriend to wear on a summer trip to Cancún, Punta Cana, or Chiang Mai. It is a conceptual proposal that prioritises the user and their desire to evoke the sea, skipping the fence of pleasing the surroundings. It offers its seaweed, salt, ambroxan, and marine notes from the start; these lean more towards dimethyl sulfide and bromophenols than calone, sketching small coves rather than open beaches. Gradually, the Oud emerges, extremely approachable, almost disappointing because it merely fuels a petrolaceous afternote that many clearly detect, whereas I find it peripheral and harmless. The result is fresh and relatively approachable, though do not expect compliments (not even by bragging about the cost). The projection is adequate and appreciated; the longevity is quite good. I do not imagine it for women, but that is relative. A very good proposal, less challenging than Megamare and Atlas, in the line of less mainstream marine perfumes. Worth trying.

Launched in 2017, perfumer Shyamala Maisondeau. An ideal Western Oud for hot climates that masterfully balances the marine, green salty touch, and Western Oud, nothing to do with the stable Oud. If you own Oud Wood, it will bring back memories but adds marine and salty touches. Longevity: over 10 hours. Projection: 2-3 hours. Versatility: semi-formal to formal events in the heat. A spectacular fragrance, in my opinion.

Simply, I do not understand it. I perceive the salty and seaweed parts, but that petrolaceous note that persists throughout the development makes it unbearable. I bought the Signature version; I want to believe the Private Blend was more pleasant.

A very approachable Oud, ideal for spring and summer.

Fresh, radiant, and briny in just the right measure, I would say for afternoons on warm days. It is pleasant to wear; I suspect it is tolerated even by those who do not like marine perfumes. Its opening changes from person to person: very marine for some (seaweed, salts, breeze) and for others a fresh perfume, less salty and with a woody hint.

Well, I had already tested a decant of the private formula and loved it. A few days ago I bought the new version, in a cardboard box. Smelling it directly from the cap, it smelled as I remembered, but upon spraying, I noticed they’d added an unpleasant note like oil or petrol that I don’t like. At the base, it remains almost identical, only that note ruins it. In my opinion, it fades a bit over time, but it remains present. Longevity is no problem: I applied half a spray to my neck, without squeezing the atomiser too hard, and it lasted about 10 hours. So much so that the scent started to bother me during the day. Hope this helps.

One of my favourites, very much within the marine theme, salty. It doesn’t evolve, staying in its chords, which isn’t bad; I like that occasionally those sharp scent hits come through and don’t let you forget what you’re wearing.

Starts with that metallic touch, then wet earth and green. It could use a bit more punch, but otherwise I absolutely love it. First spray, I’ll have to wear it and see how it sits on me.

Brutal perfume, it takes me back to childhood playing in the street on rainy days. It smells of wet cobblestones, damp earth, and a bathroom after a shower with soaking wet tiles. I don’t detect oud. It might seem strange at first for those not used to it, but over time you get hooked and can’t stop smelling it. It reminds me a lot of Calvin Klein CK2, which does list wet cobblestone as a note; here that specific note isn’t listed, but it smells exactly like streets on a rainy day.

Men’s fragrance, super salty, MARINE is the keyword. It has a marine algae note that many people won’t take to, and I understand why: it’s a challenge for the nose if you haven’t tried it before. It’s linear and versatile. I don’t love the opening, but it doesn’t bother me. The dry-down isn’t as strong and I find it bearable. Good performance. People compare it to Bvlgari Aqva, saying it has a ‘vibe’, a ‘stroke’… but that’s where the comparison ends. They are VERY different. The quality of Oud Minerale is superior, more challenging with those algae and reiterating, very salty. Don’t buy it blindly; smell it first as it’s risky if you don’t know this style. I give it an 8.