‘Ilm by Xerjoff

Love at first sniff, there’s no other way to put it. It was a blind and risky purchase, but the price and the feeling of taking the next step in my personal journey into the world of oud convinced me. I’d already lived with fragrances that aren’t a challenge for many but are for others: Alexandria III and Luxor by Xerjoff, Oud Aquilaria by Oman Luxury, or Flamenco Extrait by Ramón Monegal. I even use Afrika Olifant by Nishane, a madness of beaver, oud, and musk. They no longer posed a challenge for me, so I felt ready to explore more complex territories less accommodating to the masses. During tastings with friends, I heard The Moon by Frederic Malle and Alhambra Oud by Monegal; I was fascinated by those profiles of extreme potency in the nuances of oud. After researching, I reached the Kemi line, now out of reach at reasonable prices, so I opted for the viable alternative: the K line by Xerjoff. Thus, I arrived at Ilm. Let something be clear: this beauty isn’t for beginners. I think I arrived at the perfect moment, because without that prior journey, this fragrance would probably have been unpleasant to me. The opening is openly faecal, extremely animalic, but pay attention: don’t panic or rush to wash the area. The magic happens in the dry-down. Gradually, a deep, elegant, and sensual sweetness emerges that masterfully balances the initial rawness. That is the charm of Laos oud, sweeter than others. I’m not an expert nose, but I perceive something fruity and dense alongside the oud. Simply wow. Nothing more could be added. It’s an absolute must-try for those committed to this endless journey, especially if oud is already part of it. I must be honest: regarding the composition, I expected greater longevity; in that regard, it left something to be desired. I suspect that with time and oxidation, this can improve, as happens with many perfumes of this profile. I’ll keep experimenting and waiting for the right occasion to wear it as it deserves. A final piece of advice: 50ml is more than enough.

DELICIOUS if you like oud, you’ll love it. It’s a sweet, edible, exquisite Laos oud. The opening lacks many nuances, but as it dries, the projection drops and it becomes less animalic, much more wearable. With the amber, it makes a great combination. I recommend it, I tried it, and I loved it; perhaps I’ll buy it soon if stock allows, otherwise, I’ll go for another bottle of Kemi which I find superior: it takes the same path but has a vanilla and caramel base that makes it more usable and enjoyable, unlike this one.