Opus XIII – Silver Oud by Amouage

Please forgive me, eh? But this smells of shit. At least at first, the scent is totally faecal. I can’t believe anyone could like wearing this, seriously. Ew, what a turn-off. Gradually things improve… but improving the opening isn’t exactly difficult… after the initial impact, the resines come through, lots of smoky/incense (a very identifiable Amouage smell) and a dark chocolatey patchouli. It’s a challenging scent by definition. Dark, dense, difficult, dirty and complex. It might be good… but certainly not for me.

For trained noses only. An invasion of resins and smoke, nuclear longevity, a jewel that many won’t understand.

Cecile Zarokian has created an olfactive jewel worthy of admiration. Silver Oud is not just a perfume; it’s a sensory journey, a voyage that leaves the Western world to immerse itself in the seductive gloom of the East. Every note resonates with unbreakable nobility, as if hand-carved from the finest oud raw materials. Dark, imposing and full of mystery, Silver Oud doesn’t seek to please; it imposes itself. On the first sniff, it bewilders; on the second, it fascinates; and in the end, it conquers the soul. Its trail lingers, like an echo that refuses to fade. For those, like me, who don’t seek to smell ‘nice’, but unforgettable. For those who wish to stand out, not through stridency, but through depth. This is not just any oud: it is royal oud, eternal oud, immortal oud.

I’m testing it with the testers at John Lewis until they realise I’m almost there every day to put one on, because the bottle costs 490 quid and that price is out of my reach, but the smell is brutal, BRUTAL! Tremendous longevity of 24 hours even after showering. Smells animalic, leather, very balanced oud, dark woods… I can’t find the fault they mention. Obviously, given the price and its intensity, it’s not something to buy blindly. You have to try it and see how it suits you. Personally, I think it’s a bloody masterpiece, it takes me to a sacred temple with lots of wood and smoky resin. Very masculine, I’m hooked on smelling myself and enjoying how I smell with this beast of a fragrance. I like it more than Reflection, the best-selling one from the house. As I said: a proper piece of work. (But at that price I’ll keep testing it at John Lewis until a sniper stops me from approaching the stand) 😅❤️🔥

Another copy of the dry, smoky DNA found in private label brands or Oud Imperial. Here they cost 450 quid, get them off my hands, Maria! Longevity is about 24 hours, hehe.

Testing a decant of Secret, this Opus XIII Silver Oud, being one of my first niche ouds, is something you can’t imagine: it doesn’t smell of poo or animal. It’s warm, deep, woody, with a bitter sweetness. It’s masculine but friendly, a gentleman who is well-liked, nothing distant or challenging. Exceptional quality and impressive trail with many nuances. Context: I ordered Tauer’s L’Oud at the same time to compare; that one is very challenging and dirty, more of an experience than something wearable, reminiscent of the leather in Lonestar Memories struggling with that animal oud that isn’t unpleasant but is challenging.