Oud Noir by Ted Lapidus

Ordered it a couple of weeks ago, tried it twice and I’m hooked. The opening is brutal; I can’t pinpoint every note but it smells of dark woods, saffron, perhaps nutmeg, and a fruity touch. I bought it for the plum and leather blend, tired of the leather-raspberry combos that don’t work for me. After letting it rest for a week, I tried it again and was surprised: a dark, potent floral opening with jasmine dominating the first five minutes. Then it evolves, reminiscent of Nabeel’s Maghateer, subtly sweet without being cloying. After ten minutes, that saffron-tinged wood remains on the skin with a fruity base that makes it shine. I haven’t used it much and don’t know much about perfumes, but it’s interesting and ideal for cool nights. At €21, the quality and proposition are top. I recommend it if you like dark scents; in my collection, only the Maghateer comes close. It doesn’t seem similar to Chopard’s Black Incense, which I own and prefer for quality, though both share that dark vibe. Regarding the ‘animalic’ note, I don’t sense it; for me, only the Prin I can’t recall and Laurent Mazzone’s Hard Leather smell truly animalic. Excellent value for money, pleasant aroma, and a powerful opening.

ATTENTION! I highly recommend letting this perfume macerate. My girlfriend gifted me a bottle in 2021-2022. At first, it was very smoky, almost just leather and incense, with traces of plum after a few hours. It was animalistic and almost hostile; I liked it but it was hard to wear, only for going out at night or in the cold. I didn’t use it for a long time and, a few weeks ago, decided to spray a little. What a surprise! The perfume changed completely. The strong notes softened, giving way to the rest that previously struggled under the smoke and leather. Now I notice the saffron with great prominence in the dry down, along with the sweet plum and praline notes, etc. A huge and very welcome change. A pity it seems discontinued, as it makes me want to buy another bottle.

I don’t sense the sweet notes at all; this perfume is dry and rough, like fine-grit sandpaper finishing a job. It’s very good and original, like few others. It doesn’t smell of smoke or incense, but rather of charcoal, and it’s very pleasant; it’s not scary. It’s refreshing to find things that stray from the usual path; here, it does so markedly. The perfumers cared little for commercial success; the house has great personality. But it gives the impression that something happened in the building before finalising the formula and the perfumers had to flee without giving it the finishing touch. It feels like a sketch of the perfume it should have been, like a suit pattern that wasn’t fully sewn. It’s very particular, seems unfinished, perhaps deliberately ‘minimalist’ and for that reason seems to have only one indeterminate note, very basic. That’s probably where the good work lies; if it has all the announced notes, they are perfectly blended because the sensation is very solid. It smells of charcoal or wood dried in the sun. I like it a lot, although it has me a bit confused. In short, there is great perfumery work worth discovering.

Difficult fragrance from the very first minute. First, it’s complicated to determine the notes, almost pointless trying. Evident leather, smoky wood (which brings us closer to oud) and incense that isn’t too ecclesiastical, all accompanied by a blend that attempts to be oriental but doesn’t quite achieve it, and I like that. Second, finding the right moment is difficult. Between the excellent longevity and the projection which can be dangerous, Oud Noir deserves reflection before use. My recommendation: if compliments, partner’s taste, or criticism matter to you, wear it only for personal enjoyment. If you don’t mind, wear it whenever you want, though please consider hospitals. If possible, test before buying, although that is also difficult. Third, Fragrantica classifies it as unisex; although I’ve seen ladies interested, academically I haven’t known a single woman to wear it. The quality-price ratio is very good. Recommended to try and learn, buying is very personal. I liked it and have it at home.

Oud Noir lives up to its name: smoke, leather, and oud. The masses ignore this gem while obsessing over expensive brands like Tom Ford or Initio, paying caviar prices for weird, hard-to-wear scents. It smells like the Ted Lapidus house: tough, smoky, resinous, with synthetic oud (no manure notes). Trying to separate the notes is pointless; it’s just pure black smoke. For tough guys, collectors, or those seeking rarities. It’s a dark hardcore fragrance with zero versatility and no prisoners. It lasts as long as a mechanic’s garage smell; you’ll need a floral gel shower to get rid of it. Reminds me of a mix of Tuscan Leather, Gucci Guilty Absolute, Fahrenheit, Interlude, and Jacomo. Screw you, little bird. Even Ted Lapidus’s Black Extreme is more versatile than this. The good news is that if you find it online, it usually goes for 20 euros. In the difficult perfume category, it’s one of the best value for money. Zero snobbery.

A very distinct oud proposal, with a mineral touch as if standing near a coal fireplace. The leather is old and dirty, alternating with incense. For its price, I recommend buying blind. Lasts 6 to 8 hours.