Sander for Men by Jil Sander

Spraying Sander for Men brings me a melancholy that might just be sadness. I first encountered it during a turbulent period in my life full of hard changes, when I realised I would never be the same. At first, I remained doubtful. A friend gifted me a bottle she loved, and with my mind in a fog during those times, I barely noticed it, not even on a Milanese December morning. I merely sniffed a spritz on my hand to thank the blonde standing before me, unsure at once if I would fall in love with it. One Friday night, after showering, I tried it before heading out partying with friends where I used to lose myself to stop thinking; I recall receiving several compliments on my scent. Since then, Jil has been a constant, discreet companion, probably one of the few fragrances that has always stayed close without causing jealousy dramas, but rather bringing comfort to others. Over time, I immersed myself deeper into the world of Jil, completing the EDT with gel, deodorant and aftershave lotion, a pleasant set to convey relaxation. Freshness and cleanliness were key, with a woody base that added the necessary masculine vibe after a fresh, spicy opening with lots of mint, cinnamon and that note of bitter green ivy. Although the spices provide warmth, the cool tone has always been present, floating with a slight sweetness. Trying the current version, I subjectively feel it has dramatically lost its identity and longevity; the quality is no longer what it was, but perhaps one day someone will restore this fragrance in its original quality and realise how beautiful it was. I’m left with a comment from a friend at a fashion shop: ‘dear, you smell very well today. I need to know what it is.’

Young, spicy wood, nothing crazy about it. It’s like Burberry Touch without the violets, like Angel Schlesser pour homme but spicier, like a green, anaemic second cousin of 212, like Rochas Aquaman without the grapefruit, very similar to the Truth Calvin Klein vibe: the quintessential 1999 office cologne: crisp, spicy, peppery and woody. Sander for Men is a super watery formula; if you’re lucky, at first you’ll smell something like a banana leaf (I suppose it’s the ivy combined with something), a mint/pepper blend à la Cristasol, and in the mid-phase a green, spongy touch, with more prominent ivy and transparent accords of a nice sweetness that I imagine comes from cardamom, cedar and cypress. At the time it was a modern, cosmopolitan and minimalist fragrance. Today any young lad will find it old hat, as the lads say. For me, who grew up bombarded by advertising for these waters touted by heartthrobs with not a single pore in sight and who, after ten hours in the office, have not a single smudge of armpit sweat, it’s something I could use perfectly when I don’t want to complicate my life, because it smells generic, like the mass-market men’s hygiene lotions from twenty years ago. I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone unless you’re a follower of this 1999 watery minimalist trend. If that style turns you on, it’s a perfect blind buy. PS: Longevity and sillage are abysmal.

I bought it because of its good reviews on the English Fragrantica site and I must say it wasn’t what I expected. To be honest, the fragrance isn’t bad; it’s simply that it reminded me of Burberry Touch, with its baby nappy or wet wipe scent, which isn’t to my taste. It has a small touch of cedar wood and perhaps a bit of the ivy it claims to have, but the spices, mint, tobacco and cypress left me wanting. If you like that type of fragrance that isn’t fresh, oriental, citrusy, fougère or aromatic… ‘nothing’. But rather has a subtle wood base; then go ahead. Scent 6, Longevity 7, Projection 6, Price 10.