Kobraa by Bvlgari

Overrated; it smells basic. It starts with citronella and geraniol, but everything revolves around aldehydes recreating incense (obviously not real). Then comes galaxolide and a huge amount of ambroxan that makes it unbearable. The oud is purely for marketing; they didn’t even get the accord right. It’s the worst synthetic interpretation of oud; even L’Homme by Elie Saab smells more like that wood than Kobraa.

I tried it on the dry-down bench at the Private Gem line at Diagonal over a year ago, a typical day of sampling where I ended up with fifty dry-downs and nothing tested properly. This happened with Kobraa: I sniffed it for fifteen minutes, it became dense, and I attributed it to the geranium and frankincense which didn’t sit well with me, so I put it on my ‘no’ list. This year my tastes have changed immensely; perfumes I once hated now I adore, and others I barely glanced at now call to me. I decided to buy a vial and change my mind. Here, there is a strong opening of resinous, ambered frankincense, yet fresh due to that geranium I previously hated and now tolerate. The oud is the base, soft, providing body. The frankincense dips and rises, with the geranium becoming clean and aromatic. What’s curious is that it is a different frankincense, slightly fresh with a green sensation, smelling like the colour of the cap. It stays this way: a clean, woody base with frankincense and geranium on top. It gives a strange three-dimensional sensation, as if smelling several layers. Of the three from this Bvlgari Private Gem line I have tried, they are wonders: well-made, high quality, few notes but excellent compositions. -Scent: 9 -Longevity: 8 -Projection: 6.5 -Versatility: 7.5

Incredible fragrance, a different frankincense. Everything revolves around the frankincense and the depth of the resins. It is different because we associate the smoky, heavy character of frankincense with something cloying; here there is a perfect combination of geranium that elevates the fragrance, with subtle green and ambered tones, plus the depth of the Bvlgari oud, appreciable in fragrances from the same line such as Orom. Perfect balance between the green, the smoky, the ambered, the resinous, and the floral. Perhaps what it resembles most in designer commercial scents is Loewe 7 Elixir; I do not say they are identical, but it gives you an idea of where this Kobraa is heading.

I seem to be the first to find fault… The opening was delightful, very incense-like and fresh. However, once it dried down, a spicy, strong geranium note emerged that I simply couldn’t stand. The quality is top-notch, but that geranium won me over. It’s one of the few that forced me to go wash my wrist with soap. Everyone praises it unanimously on Fragrantica or YouTube, but beware: this isn’t for everyone.

Kobraa is a unique, unparalleled, and utterly special gem. There is nothing like it; it is exquisite and noticeable at every moment. It is the perfect blend of greenery and incense: imagine meditating at dawn in the garden of a millennial monastery, everything damp with dew, lemon trees, and a censer with delicious smoke. Cut a leaf from a mature lemon tree and smell the incision: simple, yet incredibly rich. It evokes wisdom, peace, and solemnity. I have worn it for over a year, and people always sigh, slow down, and remain thoughtful with a peaceful smile. It is not for being sexy, but for reflection and escaping stress. It is for those who are already beyond good and evil. Beware of Vie Sol from Fragrance World: it tries to imitate it with a green bottle, following the line, but there is a huge gap. Kobraa is sublime, the Zen master; Vie Sol is merely good, its apprentice.

An unusual profile and proposition, with quality that shows itself. Labels usually do not matter, but here they do. It comes fresh, concentrated, and bright, with a resinous opening that evolves into something aromatic and musky, clean as natural soap. It is distinctive, denoting luxury and class. Very versatile, almost impossible not to like; I see it as more masculine and suitable for almost all seasons, except in heat where it can become overwhelming. It lasts a long time, over six hours, with moderate projection. Everything is perfect except the price: a complete fragrance that fails on cost; I would not pay for it.

Perfumonnn! It’s super versatile, distinct, and of another level entirely. For me, it’s undoubtedly number one.

This is absolute madness. 10/10.

Words fail; it sinks straight into the heart instantly. Three ingredients for a masterpiece. Worth every penny and it was an instant buy.

A modern marvel of perfumery. Upon trying it, I thought: ‘My mind has been blown!’ The geranium is unmistakable, surrounded by incense and anchored by a sublime oud. I’d never heard such a blend, and everyone who has tried it, men and women alike, has loved it. It’s essential in my collection. The trail and longevity are more than sufficient; two sprays are enough. It’s not a best-seller but almost, and what surprises most is that it smells fresh. Priced around €300 for 100ml, but compared to other expensive 50ml fragrances that don’t last long, it’s not bad. Try it, it’s unique.