Vivre by Molyneux

Molyneux stood shoulder to shoulder with Chanel and Patou; they were contemporaries and got along famously. The house boasts a vast repertoire; Vivre first launched in the 1930s and re-emerged in the 1970s. Of course, the olfactory pyramid was tweaked to suit the tastes of the era. The designer was 80 and the brand still carried immense prestige, even though he had retired several years prior due to failing eyesight. This second act was packed with glamour, featuring a beautiful bottle, exotic notes, and an official presentation gifted to the Empress of Iran at one of her charity galas. Vivre means ‘Live’, and it is an exclamation for life; the opening is one of the most ostentatious aldehyde bursts I have ever experienced. It is effervescent, sweet, and slightly spicy, with astonishing intensity. Green notes, touches of bergamot and orange follow, then comes the iris flower blended with orange blossom and hyacinth. The lily of the valley is also quite suggestive. But what is most interesting is the base, which sets it apart slightly from the classic green aldehydes of the period. Doses of myrrh, sandalwood and spices play a key role, giving it a distinct signature. This is where we feel that marked oriental side, yet without overshadowing its floral aldehydic heart. The leather is soft and barely perceptible; if I had to highlight other notes, I would say vetiver or tonka bean. I love it; it is ostentatious, narcotic, tenacious, it does not hold back, it is a full declaration. However, while the opening is strident, the potency fades significantly within the first 30 minutes, and to my astonishment, it settles close to my skin much faster than I expected. Perhaps this is life itself: intense, short, and then quickly fading. After about four hours, a halo remains on the skin, a creamy sweetness with pleasant oriental tones (though soft, it does not disappear completely). For me, a total beauty. But if aldehydes are not your thing, do not even get close. Later, in 2017, it was reformulated again, changing its composition dramatically. This review is based on the 1971 spray version.

It is an old perfume with that 1970s air; despite its age, it is not as serious as others from its era and has incredible longevity; it is worth trying.