First by Van Cleef & Arpels

Eau de Toilette review: First is a sophisticated, elegant, and polished beauty. It opens with a huge bouquet of white flowers, jasmine, and tender lilies, with the stem and sun highlighting the scent. The aldehydes are well-crafted and give it an airy feel; as it dries down, it becomes clean, musky, and slightly green. It smells like a real perfume, like a vase of flowers in a shaded corner. I would wear it on sunny days, especially in spring and autumn with sunshine. It doesn’t smell like anything similar, not like No. 5 or Arpège; it is unmatched. It has good projection, lasts long on clothes, and the first day I wore it, I received many compliments. Longevity: over 11/12 hours… unfortunately, it was discontinued two weeks ago, but it can still be found.

What a beautiful perfume and full of memories… Upon smelling it, the mental image is black velvet elegance with perfect cuts that frame the female figure. It is polished and undoubtedly a lady’s perfume, but not by gender, rather by a woman with sophistication in her DNA, a Hollywood diva of the past. It is clear it comes from the past; it was very popular in the 90s when my mother owned it and I, at 14 years old, sometimes wore it because I always liked clean, powdery florals. It is a scent that calms and makes one sigh. The aldehydes are well-present alongside several flowers and animalic amber (unfortunately), very much in the style of Chanel No. 5. Something I remember is that it wasn’t very long-lasting on me, but it made me want to have it again or at least smell its aroma, close my eyes, and travel back in time to my childhood…

Since childhood, fragrances, their trails, and their intensities have caught my attention. My family could not afford to buy perfume, so I satisfied my interest by collecting empty perfume bottles that were given to me. I don’t recall how this First came into my hands, but it was my favourite. The bottle was beautiful, I loved the cap, but above all, I loved the fragrance. I attributed a personality to every bottle in my collection, and First was a mature, sophisticated, and elegant woman. Does anyone know if First can still be obtained? I would love to smell this scent again.

Admirers of Jean-Claude Ellena usually divide between those who marvel at his current creations (aquatic, transparent, light) and those who believe his peak was in the 70s, when he composed more substantial, dirty, and prominent fragrances like Eau de Campagne for Sisley and First for Van Cleef & Arpels. Personally, I prefer his strong, fleshy creations, with a touch of dirt that adds sensuality and balance, rather than the newer, warmer proposals. The vintage version of First is simply amazing. You can smell the entire floral symphony with a 3D cinema effect. But that is not even the best. The dry-down is where it reveals its total beauty: soft, powdery sandalwood that appears after a long journey, aldehydes with a resplendent shine, overlaid with warm amber, earthy vetiver, and delicate musk, plus go-go civet. This fragrance looks elegant and classy, but it was not created solely for high-society ladies and is used on many occasions, even in all seasons. It is fresh and warm at the same time, floral and woody, innocent and mischievous, bright and dark. It always has the power to attract attention because not everyone dares to dress in such a vintage style. A word on the current version: it holds up quite well in trail and longevity (try it on the metro, train, or car with windows closed): the current version has lost the balance and the arrogant density of the old one. The aldehydes are translucent. As it dries, it improves, but the lack of real sandalwood and faded flowers are noticeable. It is not bad and seems ideal for women who want to approach a classic without fleeing, but I consider it a 2D image of a sculpture admired in live.

I love it. I remember the old bottle that had a kind of interwoven gold/bronze casing, a marvel.

I loved it! I tried it in a perfumery and adored it. It smells like talc, super personal and exquisite. The average longevity is about 5 hours.

My mother used to wear it and I loved it. The bottle is a jewel, like a pendant. It has great presence and personality; it’s elegant and sophisticated, not suitable for young people. I wouldn’t wear it in summer, but yes for a special event.

First: the dirtiest of soaps. Comparisons with No. 5 are inevitable, but where Chanel is more abstract and luminous, First is much dirtier without losing its soapy essence. It’s a gem, a perfume from the seventies, rich, humid, luxurious, and full of noble notes evoking nature and aldehydes close to the city and work. It’s a perfect blend of country and city for tidy, professional women. It doesn’t smell of opera or gala, but of the hustle of a Monday in a city from the past. A woody and mossy background stands out, with a faecal tone thanks to the civet and narcissus. It’s so well mixed with aldehydes, carnation, ylang, jasmine, and orris that it doesn’t smell indolic. It’s so well made that neither the ethereal nor the faecal parts dominate alone. It’s nailed down to not define itself. The cleanest of the dirty or the dirtiest of the clean. It has a narcotic, disturbing drug point. A masterpiece.

First has much charm and soapy floral elegance. On my skin, a hyacinth stands out, softened by a fresh, spring-like rose, like petals wet with dew. It never had great performance, with moderate fixation and trail, but it shines for the quality of its essences. It’s not for mature women; a young woman can wear it without problems. It’s daytime, ideal for workers with responsible roles, leaving a soft trail in offices. It has a very good memory effect. It’s not sensual or nocturnal, but morning and personal enjoyment. A great survivor. Abstain if you love sweet gourmands. Great work by J.C. Ellena.

First Van Cleef & Arpels exudes class, elegance, and glamour, very much in the style of Chanel No. 5, though I think it has a slightly more herbal touch. It smells like a beautiful bouquet of flowers touched by the sun, fragrant. If the powdery narcissus of the bouquet stands out, it has a slight fruity touch, and here the moss is very noticeable. In the background comes that delicious aroma of sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, amber, and musk; the civet isn’t distinct, so I can’t say if it’s a standout note as many opine, but it captivates me. I love fragrances with aldehydes for that soapy, clean touch, but First goes much further: it’s complex, opulent, and overwhelmingly elegant. Its longevity is about 8 hours, with moderate sillage. I met it via a decant and already have it on my wishlist. For those of us who love classic aromas, you can’t miss First.

First by Van Cleef & Arpels exudes class, elegance and glamour, very much in the style of Chanel No. 5 but with a more herbal touch. It smells like sun-kissed flowers, highlighting a talcated narcissus with a slight fruity note and lots of herbal moss. In the background, a delicious sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, amber and musk; I don’t notice the civet. It captivates me because I love aldehydes for that soapy and clean touch, but First goes much further: it’s complex, opulent and overwhelmingly elegant. Its longevity is about 8 hours with a moderate trail. I knew it through a decant and already want it. For lovers of classics, don’t miss it.

First is one of my favourite perfumes. Very ‘Parisian’. I was gifted it about 20 years ago and fell in love at first sight. I have several bottles and always keep one in my wardrobe. I wear it in autumn and winter, at night and in the evening. On grey, cold days, I can wear it all day: it comforts me. I’m not an expert on ingredients, but I’d define it as: ‘consistent yet subtle, mysterious and elegant’. If it were a landscape, a paradise in the desert; if it were a colour, gold; if it were a dance, a waltz; if it were a star, the sun. It fixes beautifully and lasts a long time. Best wishes.

I’ve read around that it’s rated as old-fashioned, for older women, smelling like a grandmother… Which goddess is the grandmother if it smells like First? It’s an extraordinary classic that must be respected without that meaning it’s out of fashion. If we compare it to what’s trendy today (synthetic sweet and fruity essences, all the same), it makes no sense; it only compares with the greats of perfumery that endure over time, whereas today’s trends will hardly last a few years, let alone decades like First. To wear it, you need personality, because it won’t go unnoticed. It can be compared to the Nº5 Eau de Parfum, but First is much more insolent and noticeable. I like both, but I wear First better, yes, despite being a man. Wearing a smart suit, it looks sumptuous, and more than one person has praised it and asked what I was wearing. Van Cleef has a few timeless pieces of jewellery, and this is one of them.

A fragrance luxury: jasmine, rose, the spice of blackcurrant… and a touch of vetiver that makes it wonderful. Despite its years, it’s a young perfume, with a soapy touch. We young people shouldn’t have prejudices when trying aged perfumes; we should be bolder and risk trying little-publicised perfumes for us. They tell us how to dress, what to eat, how to have fun… do they also have to tell us which perfume is suitable for twenty or for sixty? I like to change fragrance according to my mood or my volatile appetites. There are no premises or limits to the sense of smell. I can listen to Bach or Coldplay; I can smell Shalimar (from the 1920s) or the groundbreaking Juliette Has a Gun…

I asked the saleswoman if it had aldehydes and jasmine as soon as I tried it. The similarity with Chanel Nº5 was evident. It’s a bit softer than Coco’s classic, but so is its longevity.