Mandragore Pourpre by Goutal

What an intriguing perfume! Upon receiving it, I was taken aback and hesitated over whether I’d made the right purchase. I wanted Ce Soir ou Jamais, but there was no stock, so I took a gamble on this at a good price. They told me it was unusual, that at first it smells of anise. I had to try it several times before I could get a grip on it, and in the end, I realised: it’s a scent I’d never smelled before, though it didn’t feel entirely alien. Now I’m head over heels and I’m going to look after it carefully. As soon as I apply it, the anise is the first thing I notice; it smells like a little bag of green anise, not star anise, but it lasts only a minute or two. Then a earthy, white, crisp and vibrant accord emerges: it’s not a white floral, but of wet clay, just like the smell of a packet of clay. What a pleasant result that strange association is! I also detect flashes of herbal citrus and dried herbs, more woody than pulpy. Over time it evolves little, staying on the same line, but it becomes sweeter, like a soft, natural resin, losing the earthiness to round off. While at the start it’s fresh like a gust of wind, the dry-down is warmer and cozier, like a winter day with sunshine. The longevity is incredible (I have the EDT), around 10 hours, though it appears and disappears at its whim. It gives me a sense of contemplative stillness, neither relaxing nor energising: it’s the vibe of the philosopher or painter who opens the senses with acuity to perceive everything with intensity. Calm but very attentive, still but ready to move at a moment’s notice. I tried Madragore from a friend and it seemed less particular than Pourpre, more citrus-iris, with things in common but more “easy to wear” and conventional. How I shall treasure this little bottle!

To be honest, I was surprised; its quality is excellent, its opening is very peppery, then it gives way to Anise and Rosemary. Although it isn’t a sensual perfume and very different from all others, it’s worth trying, just be careful—I bought it blind but I recommend not doing so and smelling it very well beforehand.

Have you smelled the white clay mask or red mud? It smells to me between an ashy and refreshing compound at the same time, a particular sensation, all the power of Niche.

From the start it smells something similar to Mandragore alone but with a strong touch of anise; I could say it’s the “masculine” version of that other one, which is unisex. It stayed like that for about 4 hours. After that, as people comment on Wonderwood by Comme des Garçons, I began to perceive it as a fragrance for an older lady and so it lasted about 5 hours. Finally, after that less pleasant phase, the trail dropped almost to imperceptible but changed scent: I felt a kind of quorum, much softer and refined, a more acceptable version than the one sold now. When smelling it directly from the bottle, it smells very similar to Route du Vetiver, only much less strong, let’s say wearable, since I couldn’t use Route. There will be people who will love it, but personally I didn’t like it; it was another blind purchase in which I missed. Unlike Mandragore alone, I didn’t feel much naturalness in the notes nor in the ingredients. It lasted about 12 hours, being the last 3 or 4 almost imperceptible. For intermediate or temperate climates and intermediate ages. Please forgive the fans, but I don’t recommend it and I don’t think I’ll use it again. !!!