Amyris Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Fresh and elegant: coconut with iris over a damp oud base that is not unpleasant. Together, it gives an aquatic sensation. For some, it is a masterpiece; for Francis Kurkdjian, it seems like another office day.

A more sophisticated Allure Homme, not in power but in something simple, elegant and cordial to the nose. I tried it on a tester and liked it; it is very fine and autumnal. I detect mandarin, oud and chocolate as the main notes: a sweetness without cloying and with class, although I see it more as a collector’s item than for daily use.

How interesting, gentlemen! A scent that hooks you. It does not resemble anything I have smelled, and that, being a perfume addict, is not easy to say. A surprising aroma: fresh, creamy, sweet and woody. An unusual combination of orange + coconut + tonka bean + oud, all dusted with radiant iris. I love it. A ten-out-of-ten signature scent. The problem is that it does not develop well. In less than an hour, it is almost unnoticeable. That, plus the increasingly high price, means it does not cross my mind to buy it. What a pity.

Very nice scent. I struggle to identify the notes, but distinct sensations are perceived. It opens bright with a sweet orange, but that’s little. Then it evaporates and changes to something clean, not soapy, but floral, subtly sweet, and woody. I detect a metallic base that I like. But the good parts are overshadowed by the price/performance ratio. It’s a pity. For the office, it’s a luxury, but the performance is terrible. It’s gone in a few hours. What a bigger pity. It’s a mature scent, less suitable for cold times when you want to smell with personality but without risk. An easy but quality scent. But that price/performance ratio is very punishing.

Sometimes reviews condition perception so much that it aligns with the experience, confirming that one must try expensive perfumes before spending. Amyris Homme has a wonderfully pleasant, creamy, and airy scent, slightly floral and sweet; it’s a delight. It’s not a challenging perfume, but an accessible one like a designer fragrance, yet with notable quality. For many, this might be a drawback, but for me, it isn’t; it’s a fantastic signature scent for almost all year round, although there are better options for formal events or cold weather. Everything matches what was read, but the performance stopped me from buying: it’s weak, lacks power, and fades to skin scent in minutes, only perceptible for about half an hour and requiring the nose to be close. Its sparkling opening, creamy development, and softly sweetened woody base are simple and pleasant. A pity; I don’t know if the extrait solves the power issue, but neither one nor the other deserve the price unless it’s for the scent. Undoubtedly, a shame.

Of Francis’s line, this has been the worst of all. It feels like it is not worth the cost, and you consider going for options at a third of the price. It smells like Platinum Égoïste with Allure Extrême but creamier, with regular performance and double the price. I stick with Oud Satin Mood and some other Aquas Universalis.

I tested my sample again (almost four years later) and still think it shares the same DNA as the Reserve by Perry Ellis, even if it’s not identical. They share that floral yet masculine style; in the Reserve it’s geranium, here it’s the white cuaba flower from the amyris. I liked it the first time, and this time it has enchanted me again. The only downside is that the longevity is short.

It’s definitely a tonka bean bomb. It smells quite synthetic and generic to me; I’m not sure if it resembles Allure Homme Extreme, but it feels familiar. I can’t detect any coffee or oud; it’s just a blend of notes that barely stand out. There might be a hint of coconut, who knows. The star note is clearly the tonka bean. Longevity and projection are average.

Love at first sniff! I’m not sure if I’m mistaken, but it reminded me of Solo Loewe Eau de Cologne Intense, Fendi Fan Pour Homme, and several Calvin Klein Eternity Summer scents due to its fruity character. I also thought of Davidoff Silver Shadow, another creation by Kurkdjian. It is a gourmand, but not overly sweet. A total triumph by Mr Kurkdjian. A work of art. I would not hesitate to buy it.