Black Powder by Jusbox

What a discovery! On first spray, my somewhat quirky nose picked up a fresh, potent herbal note that evolves over time into spices and that characteristic green tobacco. It sounds crazy, but years ago I tried a decant of Fan Your Flames; it wasn’t quite enough to convince me to buy the bottle, but the scent was herbal and fresh, very similar to what I smell today with Black Powder. It’s not a beast in terms of projection, but it’s noticeable right on the skin for hours. The truth is, I absolutely love it and recommend it from the heart.

Jusbox’s Black Powder is pleasant from the first sniff, with plenty of alternation and note evolution as the perfume develops on the skin; taking Black Powder on a long walk is a pleasure. With evolving notes of sweet-and-sour apple, blackcurrants, and a sensation of spiced/sweetened chilli. The base of incense, tobacco, and some suede. The apple and most elements are notably synthetic but in a way smell well crafted. This combination of concepts forms a sweet, fruity, smoky tobacco perfume. As the perfume settles on the skin, the fruits lose strength, and although the tobacco remains, the darker incense base also stands out more, and you begin to notice those tonka bean bases that maintain the perfume’s sweetness. After more than an hour and a half of spraying the fragrance, it becomes more linear, losing that initial evolutionary characteristic. Smelling this doesn’t really make me think of Kurt Cobain, yet I understand why the notes and their execution were used to represent the Nirvana vocalist. Curiously, it does make me remember photos, footage, and films from the era when Nirvana sang, but more particularly, this characteristic bohemian sensation this perfume gives is the incense and the patchouli/sandalwood base. If I were to describe this perfume in a few words, I’d say it smells like an astrology and psychic room or an extremely old, dark, and luxurious shop selling incense, wood, objects, and statuettes of various kinds. Perhaps within the most notable works of the Italian brand Jusbox, it has been well-received but not as known as it should be, as it’s a very easy-to-please perfume. Made by Julien Rasquinet, who is the author of other works by the Italian brand such as Golden Serenade and Suit Of Lights. Made to be worn by any gender, perhaps by statistics it appeals more to men due to the predominant smoky and tobacco character. I’ve found its use ideal in winter and autumn, but also suitable in spring if the temperature agrees. For more casual formal wear for women, but for men it’s more flexible to use with whatever outfit they wear. Of a medium-to-high duration depending on sprays; the first hour projects very notably and strongly, from the hour and a half onwards it becomes more linear, still strong but no longer with the high evolutionary spectrum it had. It can cause discomfort to others if over-applied, as the apple note combined with that chilli note in the opening can be pungent. The next day it still projects on clothes, and even after washing, the sweet traces are felt if applied to the garment. Of a high price depending where you get it; I think as a tobacco perfume it’s worth it, however it feels more youthful than other options with the same ingredient, which leads to a matter of taste. I think if you find this perfume for around $180, it’s very much worth it. As a final note, I recommend reserving the use of this essence for night outs and night in general. In my view, easy to please, with a well-realised inspiration by Jusbox, and it leaves me with the anxiety to discover other concepts from the brand.

Black Powder opens with fruits blending with suede, tobacco, and incense. On my skin, the apple is the protagonist: acidic and slightly artificial, yet it lasts throughout. In the heart phase, it balances better with the rest. The tobacco is subtle, dry, alongside the suede and a smoky incense base that comes and goes. Finally, the tonka bean and sandalwood dominate, giving avoindal and woody nuances, like a caramelised apple. This is the sweetest phase, without being cloying. I barely notice the patchouli. It smells unisex but seems more geared towards male skin, with excellent performance. Very potent at the start and with above-average longevity. It can be worn in any climate except extreme heat. I’ve liked it, although it doesn’t smell natural at all; it’s that super-artificial perfume that hooks you and you can’t stop smelling it. The only thing that takes points off is that the apple note at the start smells very acidic, though it calms down later. In summary: a good, original perfume with high performance, but at an excessive price. If you catch it at a bargain, it’s totally recommended.