Dioressence Parfum

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• Selene

  July 6, 2017

  

  There’s plenty of debate over whether Dioressence launched in ’69 or ’79 but old photos and bottles confirm it was already available in multiple versions by 1970: eau de parfum cream and oil. Created by Guy Robert it was inspired by Miss Dior but aimed for something more animalic. In 1979 Max Gavarry relaunched it with a new bottle and box shifting from the bright sky blue to petrol blue with the Dior logo. The question remains whether it changed; some say it smells identical while others claim the ’79 version has more spice perhaps influenced by Opium and Cinnabar. It was reformulated heavily in the 90s and 2000s. I tried the extract from Gavarry’s 1979 version: even before spraying I notice its velvety narcotic quality. Upon application the bitter earthy geranium with patchouli and sandalwood is potent. Afterwards the green balsamic notes and spicy touch become more prominent. It reminds me of Chamade but it’s earthier and spicier. Over time the violet and cinnamon which were initially masked begin to emerge. The fruity and vanilla facets soften that initial bitterness making it sweet and musky. The herbal notes become more apparent the spice calms down and the ylang-ylang shines. Dioressence is pure perfection.