Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford

I’ve tried it several times, most recently up close: it’s the most different, polarising, least summery, and most unisex of the lot. On my skin, it’s a super amber and resinous scent with honey and orange blossom. It’s linear, very warm, dense and enveloping; I don’t see it for summer. It’s surprising that it’s explosive at first with a heavy trail for the first two hours, before settling into something very intimate. I find it original and distinct, but not for me.

Soleil Brûlant is a cracker. No nonsense, it smells of a super fleshy orange blossom bathed in a slightly honeyed syrup. Super resinous and amber; I don’t pick up the incense. It’s linear, except that as it dries it feels more woody. It lasts about five hours, projecting well for the first two, then drops so low it sits right on the skin like a body cream, just like Soleil Blanc. I haven’t loved a perfume this much in ages. It’s perfect for a spring in Extremadura, but the price is… bloody hell! I can’t afford it! 💣💣 If Carnal Flower by Frédéric is the maximum exposure to neroli, I’d dare say Soleil Brûlant is the one for orange blossom. Mr Ford, please lower those prices!

Soleil brûlant smells luxurious in winter: sweet resinous with a citrus touch. I think it’s the best blend of the entire Tom Ford Soleil line so far, competing with Soleil Neige as its winter counterpart. It opens with bergamot and spiced mandarin mixed with a dark honey that brings back memories of the lemon honey my mum gave me when I had a thick, medicinal but delicious sore throat. As it settles on the skin, the citrus sheen disappears, leaving bitter flashes of orange blossom with honey while amber and resins emerge to sweeten everything. This is where I love it most; it smells like a dessert and gives me the urge to bite it, even though it’s not gourmand; the magic of those resins is incredible. The first thing that stands out is the longevity: more than 12 hours on the skin, very defined thanks to the resin concentration that keeps it in your aura. It also has a projection of over three hours; it’s a loud and airy perfume like a sweet entity that follows you and delights those around you. It’s unisex, though I think it leans more feminine. Use it in winter, autumn or cool spring; it’s a delight for any time of day. Not as formal as other offerings from the house but a pleasurable experience. Although it’s expensive, it’s worth it if you’re looking for something sweet and resinous with long-lasting projection. It’s one of the best Tom Fords I’ve tried and surprisingly one of the least commented on, eclipsed by the Noir line or classics like Oud Wood and Tobacco Vanille. Try it, you won’t regret this rich proposal ☀️

The Burning Sun is a jewel of the Soleil family; between Blanc Neige and Brulant, this stands out as the most distinguished and least mass-market. If Neige wins on originality, Blanc remains the popular and sweet option. Upon trying it, it starts with freshly squeezed mandarin and pepper, then evokes a crystallised orange dessert before the honey and orange blossom take over. It’s a warm summer scent that nonetheless feels aggressive: honey, incense, amber and resin create an imposing Bengal tiger. I noticed a hidden touch of mint that adds freshness amidst the heat, giving it that special pulse. I loved it for its originality and excellent notes: a dark, medicinal honey but not for daily wear, and a jasmine that screams summer. It’s not 100% gourmand but has that oriental sweetness. Longevity is phenomenal, over 12 hours on skin, confirming its Tom Ford pedigree. Projection is inconsistent: it radiates strongly for the first 4 hours then drops until it stays like a sleeping tiger, snoring softly. I recommend trying it several times as it’s the most difficult in the Soleil line.

It smells of warm summer, with honey and orange blossom that remind me of chamomile. The resin gives it body and longevity on the skin. It’s a very special and unique fragrance, although it doesn’t have a wide trail. Tom Ford does everything well: perfumes, makeup, glasses… but the prices are excessive.