The Uncompromising Sohan by Penhaligon's

Sohan is neither a compliant oud nor a decorative rose. This is dark spice, fleshy rose, and burning amber, crafted with firm elegance and no concessions. The opening is intense and spicy, with a warm, fairly peppery character that marks from the very first second. As it dries, a deep, mature, softly powdery rose emerges—perhaps romantic, leaning more towards a resinous veil than a fresh petal. This rose blends with a dark, dry, well-worked oud, free from exaggerated animalic notes or medicinal harshness. The heart becomes increasingly ambered and enveloping, with an almost incense-like, warm, and luxurious sensation, while the base maintains a solid, persistent, and refined presence. There is no easy sweetness or attempt to please everyone: Sohan is serious, intense, and impeccably dressed. It is an opulent yet contained perfume, ideal for those who enjoy deep oriental fragrances with weight, presence, and a clear masculine identity without excess… but let me warn you, this is the only Panthalogon’s in the collection that is by no means subtle. It is not for casual use or hot climates; it demands night, a coat, and attitude. One of the most solid and elegant proposals within the Portraits collection when seeking dark, refined vibes of spice, rose, and oud.

It smells literally like an old casino. It is quite strong, woody, and the labdanum with vetiver is very pronounced; I would not recommend it if you are under thirty-five.

In 2018, I was backpacking in Rome, entering niche perfumeries with not a penny in my wallet. I walked into one near Plaza España. The boy attending asked if I was looking for something. I said I was just having a look. He probably saw my backpack and knew I wasn’t there to buy fragrances, but he still asked about my favourite perfumes. At that moment, I told him I liked Tom Ford’s Oud Wood. He began to tell me that at some point in history, men’s perfumes sought to smell ‘strong and animalic’ and not ‘clean, like lavender’. And at that moment, he brought out Sohan to tell me that this perfume was inspired by that idea. At that time, my reference was Oud Wood, so obviously Sohan seemed like a wild ride to me. The oud-rose combo, but with saffron and pink pepper, builds a spiced perfume, not as powdery as Oud Ispahan, a bit more challenging. Moreover, it must contain some cumin, because there is a point where it smells of sweat. At that moment, I thought ‘this is a monster’. I thanked him for his attention, but told him I wasn’t prepared to buy the fragrance. The boy kindly gave me a decant, which I kept for years, until I could finally buy a bottle. Today it is my quintessential elegant perfume. P.S. Watch out for white clothes, as the juice is concentrated and stains everything.

A luxurious oriental composition. The oud is perfectly dosed, marking class and experience. However, the dry-down didn’t sit well with me; when it settles on the skin, it smells like urine with woods, a disagreeable scent. But bear in mind, it’s only the end. The rest is a super long-lasting jewel.

Great perfume… A balanced animalic perfume (I like those perfumes); the oud at its maximum power is elegant, I feel the rose lightly (and how good that is, as I don’t like it at all), and a balanced vetiver, a fresh forest grass… Yes, it is an olfactory experience… It is predominantly oud and balanced animalic, suitable for formal events and winter.

A work of art that has it all: trail, longevity, and elegance.