Essencial Safran by Natura

What a lot of notes….said someone: a saffron leather

Interesting perfume, I expected something a little different, perhaps more oriental, but I am not at all disappointed. In the opening, the presence of juicy red fruits is strongly felt, like plum and raspberry, and together with these the saffron, but less intense than one might expect. That raspberry and saffron bring for a few seconds the memory of Tuscan Leather, but far behind the sweet and juicy, that sweet and juicy that is also found in Homme Identidade. Note: I am not saying they resemble each other, they only share accords. But in the drydown it takes another path; woods appear, to such an extent that for a moment those woods and the sweetness recall the oud of Natura, not Pimentel but oud plain and simple. The red fruits disappear and only the other fruits remain, those that bring a less pungent sweetness; the saffron also disappears and the woods take control. Towards the end, the sweetness and soft woods remain, giving a sensation of humidity, perhaps due to moss and patchouli, a very light leather, a bit of what saffron and raspberry hinted at in the opening, but which does not become the protagonist and finally yes, a base that recalls other oriental and spicy perfumes with notes of tobacco and resins but without them becoming protagonists either. If you were expecting a very spicy perfume like the very famous one by Dior or many of the Arabic ones, you might be disappointed, but it is undoubtedly an interesting perfume that, although it shares accords with its brothers and cousins from Natura, achieves different harmonies with those same accords. I like Essencial Oud (of the three, a little less the Vanilla) and Essencial Mirra. Safran does not displace any of them, it accompanies them.

Well, it has just arrived, and my first impression is that it doesn’t smell as saffrony or leathery as I expected. It feels more like suede than actual leather. On the whole, if I had to classify this scent, I’d say it is an aromatic spicy fragrance. It has a great many aromatic plants that very elegantly accompany that initial saffron, while the many spices give it body and even a slightly greasy feel. The dampness provided by the moss completes its rustic, opulent character. The fruity opening profile is barely an impact of fizz, like when you hold a glass of bubbly to your nose before taking a sip; it’s a sensation, not something clear or literal. I find it an intense perfume, with presence and maturity, although not necessarily elegant. I’d say it’s for someone who wants to look neatly dishevelled in the first couple of hours, but it later becomes a much more leathery and swaggering fragrance. It has a half-hidden DNA that recalls Black Friday or Tommy Iommi, but in a light version.

Interesting perfume; I expected something a bit different, perhaps more oriental, but I’m not at all disappointed. At the opening, the presence of juicy red fruits is strong—plum and raspberry—and alongside it the saffron, but less intense than you’d expect. That raspberry and saffron briefly evoke Tuscan Leather, but far behind the sweet and juicy character, that sweet and juicy character which is also in Homem Identidade. Mind you: I’m not saying they are similar, only that they share chords. But in the drydown it takes another path; the woods appear, so much so that for a moment those woods and the sweetness remind me of Natura’s Oud—not the Pimenta one, but the Oud on its own. The red fruits disappear and only the woods remain, supplying the less pungent sweetness; the saffron disappears too, and the woods take control. Towards the end, what remains is the sweetness and soft woods that give a damp feeling, perhaps from the moss and patchouli, a very light leather, a little of what the saffron and raspberry hinted at in the opening, but without taking centre stage; and finally, yes, a base that recalls other oriental and spicy perfumes with notes of tobacco and resins, although neither do those become protagonists. If you were expecting a heavily spicy perfume like the very well-known one from Dior or many Arabian ones, you might be disappointed, but this is undoubtedly an interesting perfume that, although it shares chords with its Natura brothers and cousins, achieves different harmonies with those same chords. I like the Essencial Oud ones (of the three, Vanilla a little less) and Essencial Mirra. Safran does not displace any of them; it accompanies them.

Finally an almost interesting launch from Natura, I clarify that I don’t like the saffron note in general, this is not the exception, but luckily it lasts only a short time, only the opening is strong, then it settles down, it’s a spicy perfume with Natura’s DNA in the base, I’d say more that in the drydown it resembles Supreme. If you don’t have others from the line and you like saffron, it’s worth it because the fragrance lasts and projects, it’s pleasant, but it doesn’t feel new, distinct, if you have several essential ones it’s somewhat redundant, of the new ones, the Homem identity is the best.