Liu by Guerlain

When you spray it, anyone who knows Guerlain a little and its Guerlinade accord will know it is one. It has something very characteristic of the brand, “lilac colour,” that you notice right away, as if the colours used here in the accords represent it well. These more pastel tones, cream, lilac, light blue, grey… Normally, this accord gives the house’s perfumes a very present acidity, due to the iris, but in Liu, they blend with the aldehydes to form a soft poplar, slightly vanilla-like but also almost powdery. It is absurdly beautiful. I find it outrageous that people think it is a copy of Chanel 5 and the like. I have tested Chanel 5, Eau Premiere and Chanel 22 side by side. And what might refer to each other, in simultaneous comparison, reveals all its uniqueness. Perhaps what did not happen in this proposal is something innovative, after Chanel overused aldehydes, and Liu also had this characteristic very present. But what are social movements if not the possibility of diversifying from something? How many perfumes used aldehydes after Chanel? Hence many even get the idea that every aldehydic perfume reminds them of Chanel 5. Or even more uncritically, that every aldehydic floral is a “granny” perfume. Liu is a fresher, rounder and softer soapy scent. Chanel 5 also has its own characteristics, a lot of neroli, vetiver… some sharper edges. It is a more classic soap, and in a way it is “burnt,” a characteristic I love. Both share the same heart of a classic floral accord of jasmine and rose, and perhaps this also reinforces the chorus of those who see no nuances between the two. Coming out of the spray bottle, a fresh soap with rose, jasmine, iris and vanilla, it stays like that for a long time. As it evolves, the fresh touch becomes more and more polished and lacquered, without ever losing its softness. Iris and some soft woods (cedar?) achieve a satiny and more comfortable finish. It is so lovely when a perfume delights you as soon as you first meet it, and that is how it was with Liu. @pompomdetalco

Liu is too alive, leaving aside the idea that it should have been No. 5. I know aldehydes well, but this is an aldehyde bomb. It is beautiful, it is lazy, it is sparkling… it makes me think of a champagne. I am torn between No5 and No22. I like both, but it has something of its own. When the 5 is very high, it is a sexy and prosaic prize. It is not retro on me, or when it does not lean on aldehydes, it is a detour. Perhaps it was the answer to the request, or beauty and femininity could not be supported.

Lovely volatile spicy yet buttery aldehydes over powdery floral pollen and incense. Lovely for spring. It’s bitter, diffuse. And an absolute part of the Guerlain family at its best – no matter how bitter and volatile – and still powdery, still vanilla and still iris. Extraordinarily happy they have put it back together and released it, and in such a way that it’s not a pity, but beautiful!

Liu is a clear and straightforward copy of Chanel No. 5, but without the je ne sais quoi or the longevity of the original. I have both and I’ll use Liu for daytime, but I’d stick with No. 5 for special occasions. Chanel is richer, creamier and longer-lasting and I won’t repurchase Liu, whilst I’ll always want to have Chanel No. 5 in my collection.

I tried this new version at the airport, there’s a vaseline-wax effect, with nuances of Russian church and artificial incense, this effect seemed more vivid to me than in the old version (in the old 00– version there’s a reference, more to sweet-salty-spicy ginger-milk Thai soup). The fragrance certainly echoes Five, but this “church” strips the composition of any frivolity. To me it’s a good-looking woman, a young teacher for example, but she is dressed in a very strict fitted kremplenovyj suit in dull vintage colours and buttoned up, even her sheer kapronovyj underneath the suit is buttoned to the top. It’s depressing to my taste