Lui by Guerlain

Brutal smoky vanilla with cloves, absolutely delicious. It sounds familiar but I can’t place it, which is a real nuisance. On paper it’s one thing, but you have to wear it on the skin to let it truly unfold.

I like it very much. It is a very original perfume, feeling of high quality. I had seen reviews of LUI proclaiming it to be an unequalled jewel, so I took the opportunity to buy a decant. The first thing I noticed upon smelling it was that it smelled like a dentist’s office. Is that not what they say of BR 540? It is not because it resembles Baccarat, but I always found that comparison strange; now I understand why some people speak of that ‘dentist smell’, because I feel it here. The opening is floral, sweet and smoky. It smells of cloves, yes. It smells of soft benzoin, smoke and vanilla. It is a very particular scent, one I have not felt in other perfumes. I sense the leather, but it is not so strong; in any case, it lends clarity to LUI. It is a very unisex perfume, not trying to throw itself to one gender or another, but wanting to express an idea. This is the perfume of a sexy dentist, I imagine. The one of some dentist/Instagram model, those who make TikTok videos dancing and telling you it is important to use dental floss. Something ridiculously carefree like that. It seems to smell of toothpaste, but not minty ones, rather ‘spiced’ ones. The clove is very prominent and perceived very realistically, as is the slightly talc-like and herbal profile of the carnation. It is clean, like a barbershop. It smells like the idea of a bespoke tailor’s suit. It smells of caramel, of hot ‘peau’, of Guerlinade. It is a very special perfume, sharing nothing with what I normally like, but for its aromatic profile I quite like it. Another thing about LUI is that on the skin it does not seem to project much. It is one of those perfumes that live close to the skin, rather for personal enjoyment. It does not have much longevity either, which is a pity. I recommend trying before buying. Furthermore, it is already difficult to find a new bottle (and those that circulate are at elevated prices), so better to sample, as although it is very rich, it is not a perfume for everyone.

PERFUMAZOOOO!!! Indescribable the sensation and gratification upon smelling it, from its opening to its dry down, it is a total blast. Unmatched quality, of an amazing nature. Its aroma replicates perfectly when a vanilla pod is opened and the inner paste is rubbed on the fingertips; it smells exactly like that. Perhaps unisex, I use it on rare occasions, but without a doubt I see it leaning towards the feminine side. When my wife wears it, it is a total delight, a scent that is a pleasure to smell over and over again if you are of the vanilla persuasion. Here is a true niche perfume and jewel made by Guerlain, with a beautiful presentation and lovely case, ideal for a gift. Excellent fixation, performance, and excellent price for what you receive. A great natural aroma at 100%, I dare say it is one of the best realistic vanillas on the market, alongside ‘Eau Duell’ by Diptyque. In conclusion, highly recommended fragrance: have it and above all enjoy it.

I simply think LUI is expensive for its longevity. On my skin it lasts eight hours and still smells of vanilla, of quality, but it hasn’t surprised me. Its development is flat; not negative, but not impressive. I expected more. The advertising as unisex makes one think you will smell something innovative on first use, but that is not the case. The woody notes, leather and smoke are noticeable from the start. In the dry down, the vanilla persists until the end, reminiscent of a new-generation Guerlain, of quality far removed from the Homme and Idéal for new generations. LUI needs time; at first I thought it was light like an EDT or Eau Imperiale, what a shock! When it dries, it begins to act and seems its journey goes from less to more. That is where it surprises. It is a dry scent with very light gourmand touches that make it enjoyable. It is difficult to say if it is feminine or masculine; Guerlain has demonstrated there are no limits, read Jicky or Vol de Nuit. I think the brand aims, as at the start, for a fragrance without gender. Vanilla? For men or women as in Habit Rouge. LUI is recommended, its drawback being the price for 50 ml. The presentation is a 10: box with faux leather and embossed branding, a sense of exclusivity. The bottle design is not new; its ‘grandfather’ Liu already made an era with his Baccarat Art Déco cut crystal. In this sense, Guerlain has known how to attract the public who loves exclusivity and niche. I recommend trying it before buying, although I know it will be liked much, especially by the male gender. I like it, but I think it will become one of those Guerlain fragrances that appear and are suddenly discontinued… do not ask me why.

LUI, so far the only giant daring to tread complex, avant-garde ground alongside Shalimar. I feel there is so much more to excavate here, perhaps never reaching its depths. It opens in a way I’ve never experienced with a fragrance; it’s impossible to guess who is wearing it, not because it’s unisex, but because I cannot decipher what this great work is trying to tell me. That clove, which has always repelled me, here makes me blink and offers intense nuances, though I do note a certain dryness. Sometimes that dryness acquires a divine grace thanks to that powdery vanilla, the most merciful I have ever smelled in Guerlain. Why is it for so few? When the leather, so androgynous with woods and smoke, takes hold of your wrist, you spend hours trying to understand its message: that it is UNIQUE. Greta Garbo in Ninotchka would have worn it: serious, impregnable, cold, with that touch of sweetness to make me think ‘Garbo smiles!’. It holds darkness and mystery, yet also light and an atemporal beauty that few express from such a dark base. It is a fragrance that carries you to her; you do not carry it to her. If all Guerlain fragrances were of this calibre, the current perfumery would be different. Today, Guerlain sets the standards.